I am a self-proclaimed expert when it comes to truck electrical and I have had my own way of doing things for years; probably wrong; but it's the way I do things.

Anything bigger than 10-AWG, I CRIMP and I mean CRIMP; and, I slather and saturate the wires in Vaseline prior to crimping, especially anything that goes in one of those copper-lug hollow-tube-type terminals.

I have one of those Forney crimpers where you hit it with a sledge-hammer; you can't get any more crimped than that.

For smaller wires, I have an old Harbor Freight crimper that I wouldn't trade to that guy for two pair of his Snap-On ones; they are that good; if you have a good grip, and I do, you can liquify the copper with a set of those.

Anything 12-AWG or less, I have always been adamant about soldering; however, every time I solder such a joint, I get this nagging feeling that I am doing more harm than good.

I even solder any small crimped connections; I crimp and then I solder.

It looks good and I believe a good coat of solder prevents anything getting into my connection.

However, and this is where I am in 100% agreement with the guy on the video, and why I never solder anything bigger than 10-AWG, especially battery-cable size, no matter how expert one claims to be at soldering, there is no way to prevent the solder wicking way back in the wires, way past the connection, and making that wire on both sides stiff and brittle.

My intentions are to change my life and quit soldering everywhere that I can; I know there are times and places where soldering is about the only choice.

I intend to ask ol' Saintie Claws for some of those good two-stage crimpers and procure myself a huge assortment of the various necessary crimp terminals.

I noticed that one set of crimpers ain't gonna cut it as they are pretty much specific to only three sizes of wire.

As for the Vaseline, I have used and tried all the expensive purpose-made treatments out there and I will stick with the Vaseline as I know for fact that it is better than anything else on Copper wire.

I have slathered and dipped in Vaseline old reddened green-corroded corrupted Copper cables that most would throw away --- poor people have to make do --- and then crimped the living daylights out of the connection and ten years later that old corrupted Copper wire will look better than new; shiny as a brand-new penny and flexible as a good welding cable.

Yes, I have been a firm believer in soldering; but, in my mind, I have always known it was not the best choice.

If one could somehow prevent that solder creeping way back past the joint, then I would be an adamant proclaimer for the superiority of soldering anything smaller than 10-AWG.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0957T1S9C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1" rel="nofollow - WAGO 221 Lever Nuts 78pc Compact Splicing Wire Connector Assortment with Case. Includes (34x) 221-412, (26x) 221-413, (18x) 221-415: Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement

 BuckSkin; I thought the Vaseline on wires was just something I learned from my grandad 50+ years ago. Only thing I do different is that on terminals going on batteries they get heat shrink (the good type with the jell stuff inside) or at least wrapped with electrical tape. That's what the Cat Dlr shop foreman taught us to do in the mid 70's. 

When I was a kid, "black tape" was a woven cloth affair impregnated with a roofing-tar-like substance that sealed everything away from the elements.

If you got close to it, you would be washing it off your hands for weeks.

Way every once in a while, I will run upon some on an old truck or tractor and it is still as gooey and sticky today as it was sixty years ago.

Then they came out with the thin plastic stuff of the last fifty years and I don't know even if one could buy that good old stuff if they wanted to.

I am sure it would be full of stuff that gives people in California cancer; but, it sure was good electrical tape.

Am I the only one that remembers it ?

I think you are talking about black friction tape. It's not cheap, but still available.

https://www.amazon.com/Duck-393150-Friction-4-Inch-Single/dp/B0000CBIAT/ref=sr_1_3?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.UL58C6Gg0Oh7aLM3O_PEbCcs6pVeJFK8-otayqO5lY1utBKnfaHmjn1KTxlkEYQTdURMoDqoAW23FvZLvoxXUtrbzAut7tIk2EA7fNzNcQbF4ipFBi3R1yYER9AoelhkdqvRTLZ6SzdUKc11KW6zFVO7O3lvY1c0Mi9mgBTIyW3By1cZq_g-u89YzjvjIMtVIBdcqtxTjcgwFhlVNe8pMzIHp_K6ywb35SDyTFg5Pwc.hBgrTUIl5kop70lPGowRg-eqzbY_XYluXy_dOowUjgw&dib_tag=se&hvadid=174212708783&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9005331&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=1312536519136704610&hvtargid=kwd-10541754893&hydadcr=24656_9648981&keywords=black+friction+tape&qid=1715852990&sr=8-3" rel="nofollow - https://www.amazon.com/Duck-393150-Friction-4-Inch-Single/dp/B0000CBIAT/ref=sr_1_3?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.UL58C6Gg0Oh7aLM3O_PEbCcs6pVeJFK8-otayqO5lY1utBKnfaHmjn1KTxlkEYQTdURMoDqoAW23FvZLvoxXUtrbzAut7tIk2EA7fNzNcQbF4ipFBi3R1yYER9AoelhkdqvRTLZ6SzdUKc11KW6zFVO7O3lvY1c0Mi9mgBTIyW3By1cZq_g-u89YzjvjIMtVIBdcqtxTjcgwFhlVNe8pMzIHp_K6ywb35SDyTFg5Pwc.hBgrTUIl5kop70lPGowRg-eqzbY_XYluXy_dOowUjgw&dib_tag=se&hvadid=174212708783&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9005331&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=1312536519136704610&hvtargid=kwd-10541754893&hydadcr=24656_9648981&keywords=black+friction+tape&qid=1715852990&sr=8-3

Thanks for finding that.

When I read this review: 

 :I knew it was the right stuff.

Question: Why did God invent gasoline ?

Answer: So you COULD get that sticky black goo OFF your hands !!!

Are you meaning that stuff that has a brush on the can lid and is very similar to that stuff you dip plier handles in ?

I like that stuff but never thought to use it under heat-shrink; I had a can about half empty, lid screwed on tight, and went to use it six months later and it had solidified.

I am curious to try sixtyfiveFord's trick of storing such things with the can upside down.

Lately, I have been trying a new trick.

For years, I have adamantly applied three layers of heat shrink.

Lately, instead, I have been tightly wrapping with black tape and then completely cover that with a layer of heat shrink. 

I believe you are on to something by coating with liquid tape and then heat shrink over it.

Potting compounds, 3:1 adhesive lined shrink tube, and good quality crimp terminations utilizing the correct tools for those terminations are usually the best methods to low resistance durable terminations. The zinc chloride used in soldering past flux becomes minutely corrosive if not washed clear after soldering, but most easily removes with 91% isopropyl alcohol.

I can't answer for suppliers as I don't shop from a price standpoint, but rather from what works and can be depended upon. I have literally hundreds of connections and terminations exposed to the elements for years with many being oceanside installations still performing and meeting design criteria. I use the same criteria in automotive type work.

Typically I used/use Burndy, Thomas & Betts, and some Ideal. Not the most inexpensive by any means, but from the mentality it has to work.