Hmmm... I don't think that is a good plan; according to my Ford manual it looks like the Ford regulator sources the Field current whereas the Allis-Chalmers regulators sink the field current.

In other words, your generator is expecting the regulator to provide the ground for the field, and the Ford regulator is expecting the generator/alternator to provide the ground.

Your generator is set up as an "A" circuit and the Ford is a "B" circuit.

Unless I am reading the schematic wrong, which is always a possibility

Are you going with 6 volts or 12 volts ?? Generator on a 1950 tractor is only about 8 amps.. You need a SPECIFIC regulator of LOW AMP generators... Look for one that is RATED at 9 amps..

Internet----

I dont know if you are 12v, or 6 v...  - or + ground.....

This is, of course, not the original equipment for a WD, so we are at best only able to guess as to just what it is that you have here.

This is almost certainly the Field

ForgivenCreation wrote: ...The one below that has no marking but I will assume it's A as most generators seem to have this configuration. This also has a wire inside but I can't see where it goes...

Do not assume anything yet; I was assuming that you have an "A" circuit generator but from what you describe this could actually be a "B" circuit

ForgivenCreation wrote: The one on the back of the generator goes to the brushes inside...

This is the armature (A)

ForgivenCreation wrote: The furthest I have got is the two similar looking contactors in the regulator close, sometimes opening and closing rapidly with mini sparks. The end one connected to the battery doesn't seem to close unless forced close.

The one that doesn't close is the "Cutout" relay, it isn't supposed to close until the generator is putting out enough voltage to actually charge the battery.

The Volkswagen alternator is probably 12 Volts.

Do as Steve suggested above, disconnect ALL wires, run it, and test for voltage at the generator.

After digging through my archives (piles of junk papers) I see reference to a style of generator having three terminals similar to yours; this is called an 'insulated' generator and needs a return wire for grounding as it does not rely on the vehicle frame for grounding.

If that is what you have, then each brush is connected to one of the terminals, the third terminal will then be the field of course.

Run the engine and test as Steve suggested, but also test for voltage between the terminals rather than just testing to ground.

Edit: If you can take Ohm readings of the generator that would be helpful.

A) Test between the Field terminal and ground (I think this should have continuity with a very low resistance value, probably less-than 10 Ohms)

B) Test between the other two terminals (I think this should also have continuity with quite low value)

C) Test between the field terminal and the other two terminals

D) Test between each of the non-field terminals and ground

Please report your findings if you can, as this would help us to help you with your wiring needs.

ForgivenCreation wrote: ...This whole time the regulator looked like someone was welding on it

Yup, that is exactly what you were doing!

ForgivenCreation wrote: Also this generator has no model numbers.

With no numbers then you really need to refrain from welding on it and take the Ohm readings on the generator in order figure out what you have, then maybe we can determine what you need for a regulator.

another option is the battery wire was laying loose by the generator and shorted to ground and caused the "HOT".

How do you know that the generator was actually charging rather than the battery simply feeding back at high amperage? Was the battery still connected to the ammeter and the rest of the system?

ForgivenCreation wrote: In an originally positive ground system could this happen?

You do not have anything even close to original equipment here, and polarity wouldn't matter even if you did. You have something wired incorrectly, and that is why Steve emphasized about having no wires connected.

ForgivenCreation wrote: Maybe a wire touched ground and kicked it on. My pops and I tried later doing this with each wire while testing for any sort of reading with nothing.

ForgivenCreation wrote: Yeah I'll see if I get back around to it tomorrow and get some readings.

Please, please, do NOT attempt to take any more readings with the tractor running, we need to figure out how your generator is configured internally. Someone has scabbed a completely different generator and regulator on your tractor, and we need to find out if there is any possibility of it being usable.

Please, take the ohm readings that I suggested above. If you do not know how to do that, either find someone who does, or post a picture of your meter and we can talk you through the process.

Nice!

Now we are getting somewhere. You still need to do the Ohm tests in order to determine if you killed the generator with your little welding episode.

Since this is a Ford unit it may well be a "B" circuit, in which case your F250 voltage regulator might actually work (although without current limiting).

But first, we NEED TO KNOW what circuitry is actually still viable (if any) inside the generator.

Please, help us so we can help you. Do the Ohm tests.

That generator is an odd ball.. "NORMALLY" that terminal below the "F" is the "A" terminal and goes to the "G" terminal on the regulator... In this case YOUR Generator that "G" terminal is the GROUND.... the "A" terminal is on the back... I dont know if you could make this work with a "GENERIC" voltage regulator... but it will not work with your 1977 truck reg.

I would also check between the "A" (armature) on the back and the "F" (field) on the side for voltage.

You need to SPIN the generator and measure the voltage out of the "A" terminal on the back.... with the other lead on the "G" ro the "F" terminal... try both. ... I have used a washing machine motor bolted to a 2 x 4 years ago, to SPIN.... a hand drill with a socket on it might be enough.

steve(ill) wrote: The CHEAP FIX for you is a new Alternator with Internal voltage regulator.. There are 3-4 different brands that will work... You can even get a "1 wire" unit that just wires to the amp meter / battery with no other wires..

Yup.

Just toss that Ford generator in the dumpster where it belongs and get a one-wire alternatorI think we could maybe walk you through the process...

WF owner wrote: When I see the price of new regulators, why would you not buy a new one instead of trying to cobble up one that wasn't meant for this application.

As my Grandma used to say "Poor people have poor ways".

The alternator regulator will work with the generator so long as the generator is indeed a "B" circuit, which it should be; I had one on a 1963 Ford Fairlane. While I don't  recommend it, I have actually done this back in my impecunious youth. This gentleman appears to be more interested in painting than following instructions though, so reckon I will sign off.