Farm Equipment - 170 Power director

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170 Power director

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=200577
Printed Date: 08 May 2024 at 2:43pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com

Topic: 170 Power director

Posted By: TomYaz
Subject: 170 Power director
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2024 at 7:05am

Looking at a 170 gasser. Was shown how the PD when put into low wont stay and bounces back to neutral. Not an issue in high. This was shown when tractor was running at idle. Are we looking at a PD rebuild??? $$$?

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If its not an All-Crop, it all crap!

Replies:

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2024 at 7:11am

Be sure to check high side at full throttle when going from neutral into high side. Yup. new ramp plate for low and probably high side too. I'd guess $1,000 bucks for parts and that's a guess. Last time I bought ramp plates they were $350+ each. Be sure to replace the PTO shifter Oring while split apart.

Posted By: TomYaz
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2024 at 8:27am

Oh dear! Thanks for the info...hard pass......

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If its not an All-Crop, it all crap!

Posted By: tbran
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2024 at 10:34am

A&I had the plates at last check - 70230015 approx $165 @

Rollers are 70223155 about $20+ @

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When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..

Posted By: Brian G. NY
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2024 at 11:58am

Is there any chance that shim adjustments will help at all?

My D-17 (same PD unit, I believe) sometimes pops out of high but never low. It does it only occasionally and I don't work it too hard so I haven't even tried adjusting the shims yet.

A few years ago, I bought two complete PD units on e-bay; one for $66.34 inc. S&H and one for $108.59 inc. S&H.

Strangely, the cheaper one is almost perfect including the ramps.

The ramps in the other one are well worn but the discs are still within usable specs and the shifting collar is in good condition.

Admittedly, I took a chance and it paid off.

Not sure I would recommend anyone else doing this.

At 82, I may never get to swap out the unit but I do have a good one just in case.

It will certainly add to the value of the tractor when it is eventually sold.

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 28 Mar 2024 at 12:28pm

Changing shims to try and repair worn out ramp plates and rollers doesn't work. This assumes it is correctly shimmed now and the clutch discs are actually being squeezed together and the clutch doesn't slip under load. I assume far too many things.

Posted By: Lynn Marshall
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2024 at 9:27am

You might check to see if the low side stop bolt is still in place. You can remove some of the washers on it to give the lever a little more travel. Also,be sure that the lever set screw is tight and not allowing any play between the lever and cross shaft.

Posted By: tbran
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2024 at 12:47pm

He means high range - and the setscrew does loosen up - I have built up the ramps and hardsurfaced the lands and remachined - we have also ground the lands and ramps to have a negative area where the rollers rest in gear - it did not last as the machined area is hard surfaced or case harhened - cheaper to buy new.. but as Doc states - shimming has no affect on staying in place.

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When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..

Posted By: Lynn Marshall
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2024 at 10:24pm

Sorry for the misinformation. It is the high side that has the stop bolt. The correct fix is probably going to involve new ramp plates and rollers. I have taken off the little plate that has the neutral notch in it and ground another notch to hold the lever from kicking out on at least one tractor. I don't remember now if it was the high or low side that was giving trouble on that tractor. You don't want to have to much preload on the brass shifting collar or it will cause undo wear.