foot platform on 220's
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=200385
Printed Date: 23 Nov 2024 at 10:06am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: foot platform on 220's
Posted By: Kevin210
Subject: foot platform on 220's
Date Posted: 18 Mar 2024 at 9:13pm
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I've noticed on 220's that some have a diamond tread platform and some have like what i would call raised squares,any paticular reason they're different,just wondered. |
Replies:
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2024 at 6:24am
| Only early model 220's had that style of platform in 1969 and maybe very early 1970 ? I don't know how many they made like that. The parts books do not reflect two types. There were no 210's made like that, nor any D-21's or One-Ninety's. I would imagine it was more expensive than regular/common diamond plate. Someone within A-C made the decision to use and then not to use that material, but he or she ain't around anymore to tell us why. |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2024 at 7:42am
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I've always wondered why those very early 220's had the square pattern. The D21 and 190's already were using diamond tread, then 220 went to it also. It's like a different vendor was having them try this other product he was selling and it just didn't work out lol! ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: Kevin210
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2024 at 8:35pm
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Thanks DR and ED,I hate to say it but right off hand I know this 220 I'm working on had a cab (I think) and has one diamond and i wanna say the other ones are smooth,l just don't remember and haven't been working on it much lately,spending most my free time with Dad(95) now,so the tractor isn't on the front burner right now but did get new brakes put on one side this past weekend. |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 20 Mar 2024 at 8:23am
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did you get new discs? From agco? or tribco? Curious to hear about tribco kevlar lined. Floor plates sound to have been replaced or custom made if smooth. ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 20 Mar 2024 at 8:59am
| I think some certain brands of cabs had new left/right floor plates. |
Posted By: Calvin Schmidt
Date Posted: 21 Mar 2024 at 8:42pm
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I've seen a 220 with a 14xx serial number that had the early floor plates ------------- Nothing is impossible if it is properly financed |
Posted By: Kevin210
Date Posted: 23 Mar 2024 at 9:57pm
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ED, I went with the tribco brakes,I'm skeptical about them and I'll try to explain why. The actual width of the disc are basically the same. Now the kevlar pads are thinner than the original,not sure I like that but it is what it is,tribco brakes were almost 120.00 each compared to 200.00 from agco. I know we get what we pay for,with that being said this tractor isn't going to the field,speed limit pulls and maybe a parade or two. If I was farming with it daily and recieved the tribco brakes I may have scratched my head and flipped a coin on whether to try them or get them from agco. I will try to get some pics of them to explain it better asap. |
Posted By: Kevin210
Date Posted: 24 Mar 2024 at 12:41pm
   
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Posted By: Kevin210
Date Posted: 24 Mar 2024 at 12:43pm
| Here's the brake disc pictures injpump ed. |
Posted By: ranger43
Date Posted: 24 Mar 2024 at 1:41pm
| I put the Kevlar brakes on my 210 about 25 years ago. They have been great. The name of the place I got them from at that time was South Bend Clutch. They look identical to the picture you showed. |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 24 Mar 2024 at 2:32pm
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I'm wanting them for my puller, so don't want them grabby. I emailed tribco, but never got a response. I'll call them when I get to that point. I may end up using the old ones due to being way over budget lmao! So looks like they don't reuse original metal part of the disc, those looked all new. ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: ranger43
Date Posted: 24 Mar 2024 at 2:59pm
| So back at that time, I did have to send in my "core", but the ones I received back appeared new metal as you mentioned. |
Posted By: Kevin210
Date Posted: 24 Mar 2024 at 8:39pm
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They look new to me too. I called when I got mine and the LADY was very nice and knowledgeable and I got them pretty quickly after ordering them,I'm working on a couple other things before I get the other side on. |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 25 Mar 2024 at 7:38am
| Are they thicker than oem? Who knows. The spacers are out of my 220 and about out of adjustment. Guess I need to call them. |
Posted By: Kevin210
Date Posted: 25 Mar 2024 at 8:49pm
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It looks like the actual width of the disc are the same. But the disc's are not made the same which you can see in the pictures but the pads are not the same thickness,the tribco pads are thinner.. |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 06 May 2024 at 9:20am
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so, any updates on performance? I'm about ready to assemble the brakes on the puller. Did you have to put the washers and wire back in for the new Tribco discs being thick? I have the wires, not sure what I did with those washers lmao! Thinking may have to clean up the old ones to reuse due to budget. ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 07 May 2024 at 10:16am
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well, I called and ordered 6 Tribco discs. Very nice lady took my order. She did point out the web site has a typo on the part number, says 900-17, but it's actually 901-17 apparently. Looks to me like the kevlar wears so little, they don't need to make it very thick, plus it's probably much more durable having a thin layer, therefore the steel disc needs to be thicker to make up for it. Not to find those thick washers I took out lmao! ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 07 May 2024 at 10:39am
| Are you saying the steel disc is thicker with thinner lining? |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 07 May 2024 at 2:33pm
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yes ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: Kevin210
Date Posted: 07 May 2024 at 8:59pm
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So Ed, I did get both sides done but I'm a long ways off from it running as I only have 3 days a week to work on it. So best I could do was to jack it up and spin the tires as much as I could and had daughter hit the pedals. I know it's nothing like the tractor moving on it's on and stopping but they did stop pretty quick I thought. So I'm not really comparing apples to apples here but they did stop the tires pretty quick I thought... And yes I did put the washers back and the wire back in,I figured they were there when new so may as well put em back... |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 08 May 2024 at 7:39am
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cool, the washers and wire are to be there when plates are new, and thick. The removal of them allows putting the brake assemblies back into adjustment range as the discs wear thinner. I found my washers and wires again, so they will go into the new puller as well. I am certain these will be a much better lining than original. Hoping for smooth, gradual application. I've honed and polished every pivot point for the brake linkage and even drilled and tapped for grease zerks on all but the one going into the brake housing, don't want grease there. I sprayed slip plate dry graphite inside that bushing, and on that pivot shaft as well. Did you remember the part number being different than the web site? ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 30 Jul 2024 at 1:38pm
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just a little update now that I have my new puller going. While I haven't had to use the brakes on the track yet, it drives straight with the needled differential, it will stop on the trailer ramp while unloading it. Seem to be nice and smooth, not at all grabby. I didn't know Rick Corder was relining them also. The important part is to make sure all the components are clean as new, new balls, and springs too. Dry graphite sure helps too. ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: ranger43
Date Posted: 30 Jul 2024 at 6:28pm
| I have around 1200 hours on my 210's Kevlar lined brakes with lots of braking since I plant beans with it. I pulled one apart at 1000 hrs due to a bad actuator ball that caused it to stick. pad's showed zero wear. I did not mic the metal so maybe the metal wearing quicker, but have not had to remove wires or shims |
Posted By: dirtschlinger
Date Posted: 26 Aug 2024 at 10:45am
| I'm going to hijack this thread because this is where I found the info on the Tribco kevlar discs. The part number is 901-17 and they are $125.05 each plus shipping. I have looked at alot of posts and can't remember where I read what so if someone can help me that would be great. I've read to make sure everything inside is clean and dry when put back together. I also read to use anitseize on I believe the balls. Anyone remember if this is correct? Is this the only place to use it? What about the splines the discs ride on? Any advice is appreciated. Thank you. |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 26 Aug 2024 at 11:20am
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I never use anything "wet" inside the brake housing. I only use the spray dry graphite coating. Bead blast the actuators, making the ball sockets look like new, sand the other side some to smooth it out and take down ridges. Spray paint the sockets with the graphite, and the new balls. Several coats, turning the balls to cover completely. New springs also helps. I also made sure every pivot shaft moved free as can be. Wire brush the splines where the discs slide, dry graphite them too if you can get in there to paint them, and rotate them to get all the way around. ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |