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190xt and 200 ac pumps fluid into trans

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=20015
Printed Date: 08 Feb 2025 at 5:48pm
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Topic: 190xt and 200 ac pumps fluid into trans
Posted By: papa_t
Subject: 190xt and 200 ac pumps fluid into trans
Date Posted: 27 Oct 2010 at 8:59pm
  I have a 190xt and a 200 allis chalmers and they both pump hydraulic fluid into the transmission from the power director torque housing. Is there anything other than the seal in the transmission input housing that would cause this problem.



Replies:
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 27 Oct 2010 at 9:08pm
The seals are junk. The rubber is glued to the metal and they come unglued.
 Replace the piston ring seals on PD and check the housing that the piston rings set in for ware.    MACK


Posted By: Oldoug
Date Posted: 27 Oct 2010 at 9:22pm
PTO seals will cause it also.  Spilt job is required to fix correctly.

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Matt Folkers

FOLKERS RESTORATION



Restoring vintage things to last so the future can enjoy our past.


Posted By: papa_t
Date Posted: 27 Oct 2010 at 9:39pm

can all these seals be replaced by just spliting at trans and torque hsg or does some of the trans shafts and gears have to be removed. I have a ac-202 shop manual but some of it is not too clear. I like both tractors and I'm going to fix both of them but I dont want to split and put back together without replacing the seals that could be the problem.  

  papa_t



Posted By: gcalent
Date Posted: 28 Oct 2010 at 8:23am
You don`t need to take the trans apart, after you split the tractor pull the pto shaft and replace the two seals,"thew face opposite directions" and pull the power director clutch off and replace the seal rings as previously stated, they are steel like a piston rings, also check the housing they ride in for a wear groove.
Sould solve you problem

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Pullin With AC


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 28 Oct 2010 at 9:40am
Make absolutely sure to not press the trans input seal all the way into the bore....press it in flush with the OD of the seal. Installing it too deep will block the weep/drain hole and it'll do the same thing all over. Also grease the PTO seals so the seals lip spring doesn't fall out of place when you pound it in place with a seal driver.


Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 28 Oct 2010 at 12:28pm
Dr Allis,
Just a quick question, does that note on the input shaft seal apply to a 7000 black belly also?  That may be why I cannot keep the input shaft from leaking once it warms up, as I have 2 seals "stuffed" into the support housing bore.  Or is this another input shaft seal you are talking about inside the torque tube?
 
Thanks
Hurst


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1979 Allis Chalmers 7000
5800 Hours


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 28 Oct 2010 at 5:01pm
No. If it isn't made for two seals, are you sure the second seal isn't squezzing the first one too much?? My guess is you've cut the seals when sliding them over the sharp splines on the clutch shaft. Wrap the splines with black electrical tape tightly in a spirol (like a barber pole) keeping the overlap to a minimum starting at the far end of the splines and working towards the end of the shaft. Oil the tape with WD40 or similar and slide the seals over the splines without damage.


Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 28 Oct 2010 at 9:23pm
Thanks for the advice, I'll have to give it a try this winter or next summer.  I think I'll buy the higher quality material seal next time too that is made to withstand higher temperatures and has better resistance to oil than the standard viton seals do.

Hurst


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1979 Allis Chalmers 7000
5800 Hours


Posted By: tbran
Date Posted: 28 Oct 2010 at 11:35pm
The housing of the Power director clutch has a hole in the bottom.  As stated do not drive the seal in too far.  Most books show incorrect direction of the seal although many argue as to orientation.  We install seal with wire towards the front . We also drill out the drain hole 2 drill bit sizes larger and redrill after seal is installed to insure seal metal does not  block hole. This larger drain hole will allow lube oil and excess oil from wear to drain and not rupture seal thus transfer oil.   Having said all this there are many units running with a 'balance' tube tying the two sections together.  a 1/4 " line tapped into both housings or drian plugs will allow the oil to 'level out' .    7000 tractors were prone to have the rear housing vent plugs clog and force oil transfer.  Also on 7000 s operating large hyd cylinders or multiple cylinders a rapid lowering with vent plugged  builds possible seal blowing  pressures 


Posted By: MarkinSIndiana
Date Posted: 29 Oct 2010 at 7:58am
replace the bearing and the seal but go to your bearing supplier and get a Chicago rawhide seal with the leather lips it will hold up much better AGCO SEAL


Posted By: papa_t
Date Posted: 29 Oct 2010 at 9:44am
Its interesting about the balance tube because when I found it was leaving pump side low and trans too full I put a pump from a 12v sprayer with a tube just a little longer than trans dip stick connected to a toggle switch and pumped oil back over about every 45 minutes or so. I have used this 200 for about 8 months this way without and problems as for as I know. the balance tube sounds like a better idea. I will try it on the 190xt. Do I just put fittings into drain plug holes and connect. I want to try this before splitting at first. I willsplit sooner or later on the 200 because that is the only problem with it.



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