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7040 Ring and pinion gear

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=199694
Printed Date: 24 Sep 2024 at 1:24am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: 7040 Ring and pinion gear
Posted By: Gleaner52
Subject: 7040 Ring and pinion gear
Date Posted: 06 Feb 2024 at 6:19pm
Hi, in another post I was asking about inspecting the differential gears on a 7040. I was able to remove the right side filter housing and discovered that the ring gear is shot. I now need a gear set, where is the best place to get these, I prefer a good used set. Also what’s the best way to remove and replace them? I have a decent shop and am a good mechanic but have never done this on a tractor before. Does anyone know of anyone who could do this job? Located in west central Illinois near Peoria. Thanks.



Replies:
Posted By: Lynn Marshall
Date Posted: 06 Feb 2024 at 7:26pm
This is a rare and unfortunate failure. Replacing the ring and pinion in one of those is not for the faint of heart. Big job to say the least. Move the wheels out, Fuel tanks off,floor out, oil out,disconnect hydraulic lines and cables, support the rear of the cab,remove the rear cab mounts,split the tractor and the start tearing it down. Hydraulic valve stack off,lift chest off,both final drives off, differential lock valve off,numerous internal lines and fittings to remove, both brake assemblies off. You need to support the differential assembly as you remove the brakes. There is a nut on the front of the pinion that has to come off. I believe that the range shift fork and cover has to be removed too. Top counter shaft out also. The pinion shaft then presses out the rear. A factory service manual and several special tools are really needed. Good used parts shouldn't be a problem because of rarity of this problem. Numbers are etched on the pinion and there's a number stamped in the rear end housing to aid in setting up the assembly. I would probably remove the hydraulic pumps too before I split it and I prefer to crib up the rear end and remove the rear tires or wheels before taking the final drives off. Did I mention that it was a big job. I recall putting a new set in a 7060 once and on another 7060, we just got a complete rear end assembly from salvage and rolled it in. If you did that, you could use a 7060 rear end assembly and gain the 4 pinion spider gear setup. I'm probably forgetting a lot of small details here,but that's about the jest of it.


Posted By: Gleaner52
Date Posted: 06 Feb 2024 at 8:19pm


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 06 Feb 2024 at 10:07pm
Makes me wonder if this tractor fell into that serial number group that had loose ring gear bolts back in 1976/77 and actually failed the bolts themselves by shearing them all off. Anyway, I'm not there looking at the carnage, but do know that if it was at my place with a decent looking pinion, it would just get the ring gear replaced and I would lose no sleep over it. Back in the early Spring of 1976, I had a D15/s2 apart to replace 3rd gear and related jump out parts. It had a piece of a pinion tooth missing, so my boss had me replacing the ring and pinion gear set, because that's how they were sold....a "matched" set. I was 22 at the time and this was my first tranny/rearend job and I missed the part where I needed to order new bolts and nuts for the ring gear, as the old ring gear was riveted onto the differential carrier. Time was working against us as spring tillage needed to be done and it was a Friday with Saturday being a working day for the shop. Between my boss and I, we decided to use the old ring gear to get the job done. Worry about noise from mismatched gears ???? NO WAY because every D-15/s2 I ever drove howled like he77 in road gear anyway !!! How bad could it be ?????   Well, it was amazingly QUIET in road gear  !!!!  So, over the next 20 years I had two more D-15's that got the same treatment with the same exact results !!!   I would use another 7040 ring gear against a good pinion and feel fine about doing so. Caterpillar sells pinions and ring gears SEPERATE in their old D5/D6 etc dozers. No matched sets there.


Posted By: MikeKroupa
Date Posted: 06 Feb 2024 at 10:30pm
We had the pinion shaft fail on our DA 9190. The ring gear was not damaged, so I just replaced the pinion shaft and sent it. WFE never offered them as a matched set, got along fine. Good Luck!


Posted By: JPG AUSTRALIA
Date Posted: 06 Feb 2024 at 11:03pm
I had a pinion bearing fail on my m100allis grader a couple years back ,pinion was not good but I thought ring was still good enough to use again,considering the amount work the machine did,but wrecker would not sell me just the pinion,said matched set or nothing. Was a hell of alot of extra work ,preloading and such compared to just swapping pinion.


Posted By: Ed (Ont)
Date Posted: 07 Feb 2024 at 7:42am
That has turned into a big job for you! Catastrophic failure. 


Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 07 Feb 2024 at 8:04am


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Like them all, but love the "B"s.


Posted By: MrSnerdly
Date Posted: 07 Feb 2024 at 11:01am
I wonder what happened.  I have only seen one R&P out of the 7020 and bigger and it was because of improper heat treatment.  AC has a fine powertrain in the 7000 series with the planetary final drives.  I actually haven't heard of much trouble on the 7000 either, although it in no way compares to the larger 7000 series.


Posted By: Lynn Marshall
Date Posted: 08 Feb 2024 at 7:55am
As stories go about this particular area,I also remember the mid seventies loose ring gear bolts campaign. If they backed out to much, they destroyed the live PTO drive shaft. Seems like we had to pull out some differential assemblies if it broke the carrier or differential lock cover plate. Otherwise, the repair could just be done through the top if nothing else was broken. New bolts were used that had a larger head and serrations under the head plus loctited. We made some special wrenches for torqueing the bolts. We had a whole bin full of those old bolts when that update was done. The factory implemented some new torque tightening procedure after that mess. I believe that there was another, separate issue, where the ring gear bolts were to hard and brittle causing them to just break. They had that narrowed down to a specific group of tractors that needed checked. I don't remember if those were maroon or black belly tractors. Regardless, if the bolts broke off in the ring gear, it was a challenge to get them out without pulling the whole assembly out. We inserted a large roll pin through the differential cover plate and carrier. We then bent a welding rod at a 90 degree angle and stuck in through the roll pin. While holding the welding rod in place, someone else would turn on the welder briefly. We were able to stick the roll pin to the broken bolts with the weld and get them out. It worked surprisingly well. I also seem to recall that the early tractors had a running change from maybe 1/2 inch bolts to 9/16 hardware??


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 08 Feb 2024 at 8:42am
Seems like the bolt size increase may have been between 7030/50 and then the newer 7040/60/80 era, but I'd have to look that up to be sure. The brittle bolts was black belly models and I remember fishing out broken bolts in the Winter/Spring of 1981. According to Orville O., the bolt supplier was the "House of Screws" !!!  I've still got my special offset wrench too !!


Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 08 Feb 2024 at 8:50am
For all that I think I'd be looking for a salvage assembly and swap it in....


Posted By: Lynn Marshall
Date Posted: 08 Feb 2024 at 11:25am
Doc, that's a funny line from Orville. I wonder who was on the hook for that repair, the bolt supplier or AC ?


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 08 Feb 2024 at 11:51am
As I understood it, A-C ate everything. House of Screws probably offered to pay for the bolts and that was it. It was a bad deal regardless.



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