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7020, adding collant filter?

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=199629
Printed Date: 24 Sep 2024 at 1:22am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: 7020, adding collant filter?
Posted By: Leon B MO
Subject: 7020, adding collant filter?
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2024 at 3:07pm
 I hadn't realized until now that my 7020 does not have a coolant filter. So I got got a filter base from a salvage yard and looking to find the best place to mount and how to plumb. There is a plug in the casting not far from the inlet of the water pump that I can use for the return, I guess that is the best place, don't see any other good options. For the inlet, I have access plugs in the thermostat housing either before or after the thermostat, which would be better? Or there is a petcock on top of the oil cooler inlet that I could tee into, this is only 1/4 pipe so not as much flow. Plan to mount it on the lower left front on engine. 
Thanks again
Leon B MO


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Uncle always said "Fill the back of the shovel and the front will take care of itself".



Replies:
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2024 at 3:39pm
The best is use the correct coolant for no more possible places to have any leaks. Caterpillar and Cummins don't use filters anymore. They use a specific coolant.


Posted By: CDN 400
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2024 at 4:11pm
I could get you some pics of my 7020 it has a filter. I not sure how to post pics on here ,I could text them to you.


Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2024 at 6:51pm
I'm with Doc. Drain rinse and refill with heavy duty diesel red/pink antifreeze. Remove hoses to and from heater and open temp control and blow through that as well to remove as much as possible.


Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 04 Feb 2024 at 6:29am
If you do go ahead and install the coolant filter I would think getting the water source After the thermostat. Picking it up before the thermostat could lead to overheating problems if water was circulating through the filter and not the radiator after the thermostat opened.

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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY


Posted By: rw
Date Posted: 04 Feb 2024 at 6:54am
No coolant filter for me. I have lived through a good part of the evolution of coolant related engine problems silicate drop out, leaking water pumps due to coolant additives on seals, liner cavitation/ electrolysis. filters; filters with different amounts of additives;  test  strips; pour in additives and on and on. Every one of these developments was an opportunity to make a mistake in a new way and far less than a final solution. 
We finally have coolant premixed long life complete coolant. Flush your system and Fill it up. Top off with it as needed to keep everything balanced. I use it with great confidence and do not miss the hassles of past attempts to resolve a very real problem. 



Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 04 Feb 2024 at 7:55am
I first got involved in this coolant deficiency problem in 1977 or 78. I discovered the cure with a product called Nalcool 2000, from the Nalco Chemical Company. It was the "pinkish" color and came in a pint bottle. I advised to my customers to change out their coolant completely, use a 50/50% mix of distilled or rainwater with good quality green antifreeze and add 2 bottles of Nalcool. Every 500 hrs add another bottle. Since that time I've never known of any failures due to cooling system cavitation erosion or sleeve O ring failures. Since then the good antifreeze has been invented using the same ingredients. Water filters must be removed or shut off when using this type of coolant.


Posted By: gleaner1
Date Posted: 04 Feb 2024 at 8:40am
There are coolant filters now available without the additive.
A couple yrs back i flushed and put the fleetguard purple lifetime coolant in and replaced filter with one without the additive as apparently the chemicals aren’t compatible.
Available from Wix/napa



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ALLIS CHALMERS "The color is orange"


Posted By: rrhead(SD)
Date Posted: 04 Feb 2024 at 9:27am
I was wondering if this would be a good thing to do to my 1962 D19D. It had a complete overhaul when I bought it 25 years ago. Was used on farm grinding feed, raking and baling for about 12 years. It is now retired in shed and ran a few times in the summer. It runs really well. Would this flush and new antifreeze help preserve and keep it running for years beyond me. rrhead(SD)

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2 WDs,WD45,D-14,D-17,D-19D,180,7020,6080FWA,6080 2wd, 6080 2wd(cab),8050FWA,8550,4W-305,Massey 8250. Gleaner L3, R62 &R65 Agco-Allis 1616H & 1920H, AC 720, Terra-Tiger


Posted By: HudCo
Date Posted: 04 Feb 2024 at 9:40am
we used nalcool for alot of years and then just kind of forgot about using it for alot of years i will have to call my napa store to see if they still carry it .   i will standby useing distilled water as being the biggest thing that can be done to keep the cooling system in good health , mixed 50/50


Posted By: HudCo
Date Posted: 04 Feb 2024 at 9:42am
all my tractors have the original radiators and are clean inside


Posted By: Ed (Ont)
Date Posted: 04 Feb 2024 at 10:09am
Detroit used the Nalcool system. Cummins used DCA. Both I think did the same job but you had to stick with one system. On Cummins we had coolant filters with 0 units DCA (neutral), 4 units DCA or 8 units DCA. We used a test strip every oil change and then installed the correct filter based on the test strip result. Most of the time I installed the 4 unit DCA coolant filter. I changed oil filter, coolant filter and diesel filter every oil change. Oil change was every 16-20 thousand km. N14 Cummins. Sold it at just under million km and still ran like new.


Posted By: rw
Date Posted: 04 Feb 2024 at 12:22pm
I work in maintenance of truck fleets with shops scattered out across the country. The execution of maintenance  varied from place to place. I commend those of you that have maintained your own units with filters and additives and completely agree that great results can be achieved in more than one way.  Your results prove this.
We had drivers (and some mechanics) checking coolant level daily and adding a quart or so of pure antifreeze every day instead leaving the level  down a little to allow for expansion. Units had no recovery system same as many of our tractors. When they added this pure antifreeze every day, nalcool or DCA from the filter got spit out with the excess coolant as the engine came up to temp.  The next morning the system would be an inch or two below the top of the filler neck and another fill of pure antifreeze was executed. This cleared more DCA or Nalcool and also overloaded the freeze protection. We added recovery bottles to some tucks and had the driver only check the level in the bottle. 
 
The long life 50/50 coolant comes with high quality water and the proper additive packages. 
Newer models feature advancement in system design to keep coolant in the engine free of air bubbles and dissolved with modern overflow and recovery reservoirs, shunt lines and pressure caps. 



Posted By: Leon B MO
Date Posted: 04 Feb 2024 at 2:51pm
Well, for now I plan to mount filter and keep using the standard anti-freeze. I can't have one unit different than the rest and it would take 30 gals of anti-freeze to convert them all. Maybe at some point I'll change everything over. Other than the recent 200 motor that had original bearings, we have had no water-oil issues.
Thanks all
Leon B Mo


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Uncle always said "Fill the back of the shovel and the front will take care of itself".


Posted By: Ed (Ont)
Date Posted: 04 Feb 2024 at 7:01pm
Why not convert this one now and save a bit in the long run. Down side is you will have to stock 2 types of coolant for now. Maybe buy a 45 gal drum and then start getting them all on one type. Make a good choice and you can probably run everything on one brand.


Posted By: rw
Date Posted: 04 Feb 2024 at 8:45pm
It can be done that way for sure. Nothing wrong with doing it that way. Just stay on the chemistry.


Posted By: Ed (Ont)
Date Posted: 05 Feb 2024 at 8:36am
Keep in mind that many of the big truck diesels still have coolant filters so they can't be all bad. I still do a bit of maintenance at one shop. They have 3 KW with Paccar engines - all with coolant filters. 1 International with Cummins X15 also has coolant filter that we change about once a year. Neutral filters for filtration only. Those Paccar engines are built by cummins. 



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