WD45 diesel fuel pump
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=199347
Printed Date: 22 Nov 2024 at 5:43pm
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Topic: WD45 diesel fuel pump
Posted By: Richard66
Subject: WD45 diesel fuel pump
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2024 at 7:44am
My WD45 started to get diesel fuel in the motor oil. It has the American Bosh PSB6A-75Y-4123A pump on it. I can not find any manual for it. I have watched a few videos on similar pumps. But they don’t seem to explain everything. I’m thinking it may be the lift pump on the side of the pump. By the way all of the videos show but they don’t mention all the procedures for getting it off. I’m hoping I can leave the pump on the tractor to repair it so I don’t have to remove my loader to get to it. Anything will help
Richardrjlawrence66@gmail.com
Thanks in advance
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Replies:
Posted By: DanielW
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2024 at 7:58am
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Definitely the lift pump. Were you the one that posted this question on yesterday's tractors? It's a very common problem on PSB pumps and a very easy fix. See my response there: https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/threads/die.1698749/" rel="nofollow - https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/threads/die.1698749/
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Posted By: DanielW
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2024 at 8:44am
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To confirm: You don't have to remove the whole injection pump. You only have to remove the lift pump, which is a very small and easy-to-remove unit on the side of the injection pump. Shouldn't be more than a half hour job at most from start to finish.
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Posted By: Richard66
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2024 at 8:47am
Posted By: Richard66
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2024 at 10:21am
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Do I need to time anything before I remove it
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Posted By: DanielW
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2024 at 12:10pm
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Nope, no timing necessary: Because it's just the lift pump, it doesn't care about time, nor does it affect the injection pump timing. Unhook the lines from the lift pump. Undo the two bolts holding the lift pump on (centre top & bottom of the lift pump) and the lift pump should slide out from the injection pump. The drive gear will be held on the lift pump shaft with a snap ring. Take the snap ring and drive gear off to expose the seal beneath, pry out the seal (carefully - you don't want to score the shaft or housing. Best to stab directly into the old seal to get a hole to pry from). Lube the new seal up a little with some light oil or thin grease. Press the new seal in evenly (make sure it's the right way around, and that the lip doesn't catch and flip over as it slides over the shaft). Put the gear and snap ring back on. Re-install pump (may have to jiggle/turn it a little as you slide it onto get the gear teeth to mesh).
I can't remember if there's a gasket between the lift pump housing and injection pump. I don't remember one, but if there is you may have to make a new one out of some gasket material (try to get the gasket material about the same thickness as the old gasket - probably pretty thin). But as I say, I don't think there's a gasket in there.
SKF seal #4231 (or equivalent): 7/16" inside diameter, 0.836" outside diameter, 3/16" overall thickness. |
Posted By: ac45dave
Date Posted: 20 Jan 2024 at 9:07am
Fuel can also get in the oil from the control shaft compartment.Remove the cover below the pump head and check for fuel inside the cover,there should be none.Here's a couple links that will help. http://allis01.com/fossto/56WD45D/ac-wd45d-PSB.html" rel="nofollow - http://allis01.com/fossto/56WD45D/ac-wd45d-PSB.html http://allis01.com/" rel="nofollow - http://allis01.com/
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54 wd-45gas ; 56 wd-45d N/F w/fact p/s ; 63 d-17 sIII N/F gas ; 60 D14 N/F ; 67 d-17 sIV N/F gas ; 63D15 sII W/F; 39rc#667 ; 2021 massey 4710 fwa ; gravely 2 wheel tractors
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Posted By: Richard66
Date Posted: 20 Jan 2024 at 11:31am
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Thanks for all the support and help. Got the lift pump out and cleaned up. BRC Bearing had to order the seal for me so I got 2 @ $7 a piece just in case
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Posted By: EsoxAllis
Date Posted: 16 Oct 2024 at 9:58am
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Just getting back to my WD45 D after quite some time. Issue = fuel getting into the crank case. And, running poorly before that. Has sat in my shop for 4-5 years. Have read some very good posts here about timing the injection pump here (which I believe is the poor running issue = white smoke). Have also read good posts about addressing the pump seals, i.e. on the leak issue (three seal-areas as possible culprits). Going to address the seal replacements first, I believe for the the hyd head seals I’ll have to pull the head. A big watch out it seems is to test for a frozen plunger before turning the engine over (having sat now for quite awhile). My quandary, is that it seems I need to align the control valve marks before pulling the head. If yes, how does one do that without turning the motor over? Or, can I pull the hydraulic head without worrying about timing mark alignment? Thanks!
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Posted By: DanielW
Date Posted: 16 Oct 2024 at 10:12am
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Hold the kettle: It sounds like you're planning to pull the head off the injection pump right from the get-go? I wouldn't start with that. About 90% of the time with these pumps, diesel in the crankcase is due to a bad seal in the lift pump. The lift pump is mounted to the side of the injection pump, but it's stupidly easy to take apart and replace the seal while the unit is on the tractor, without worrying about timing or pulling the head off the pump. Pulling the head off the pump is much more involved and major pump surgery, likely best left to a diesel shop unless you're very familiar with injection pump work.
Start with the lift pump shaft seal. It's a 15 minute job anyone can do, easy and cheap, and as I say: there's about a 90% chance that's what your problem is. See my responses above and link to the other forum with detailed instructions.
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Posted By: EsoxAllis
Date Posted: 16 Oct 2024 at 11:52am
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Thanks DanielW, I can start there. I have replacement seals for the lift pump (thanks to you posts I believe), the control valve and the hydraulic head. So was thinking I’d do all three before I confirmed timing was set and put new crank oil and new oil filters back in, bleed the system, got it started, etc. However, past all that I still have the concern about proving I don’t have a stuck plunger……before I turn the engine. For the lift seal replacement this is not a concern, as you/someone mentioned previously. But, before I try to start it I’d like to put aside the stuck plunger concern. How do I test for a stuck plunger? I was hoping not to have to pull the whole pump to do that…
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Posted By: DanielW
Date Posted: 16 Oct 2024 at 12:32pm
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Ah, gotcha. I've been lucky with all my PSB pumps. None of them have broken the shaft from sitting and being stuck, and I've had at least three or four that have sat for a year or two. I always gently rock the engine back and forth a teensy bit by hand via the fan before giving it the goose with the starter, and try to convince myself that it helps with making sure the pump's unstuck. But in truth I know that I wouldn't feel a stuck pump shaft when rocking the engine, and if it were stuck I'd likely still break it rocking the engine by hand
Determining when to check a PSB pump for being stuck is a tough one. There's no way to check if the plunger is stuck without taking the pump off and sending to a qualified shop to check it out (unless you're familiar with working on injection pumps yourself). For me, the cost and time to take a pump off and send it out for checking (and knowing they'll probably want to rebuild it regardless) is always more than the tractor's worth to me (probably because I'm too cheap to spend more than $2k on any of my old tractors). So I've always gambled with assuming the pump wasn't stuck and just going for it. So far so good; no broken pump shafts yet. But I realize that's not the 'proper' approach.
'Internet Archives' have the parts breakdown manuals for the PSB pumps available for free. If you feel like diving into one, you can see how it all goes together from there. Working on injection pumps isn't strictly 'hard' in the conventional sense. The trick is knowing what to look for. Having the right micrometers to check all parts and bores for being within spec, having access to new parts, appropriate test tools, and having an uber-clean work environment. I've done some injection pump work, but I've found it's really not worth it. Better to leave to a shop that does it every day and has a proper test bench and parts access. And of course, parts for PSB's are pretty much non-existent.
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Posted By: EsoxAllis
Date Posted: 16 Oct 2024 at 1:26pm
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Thanks, yes, that’s where I’m at. Hoping to fix the leak and confirm it’s timed — then see how it runs — before I take the pump off and send it somewhere for expensive work.
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