I would like to build some pallet jacks for the snap coupler. Has anybody built something that would work and have pointers?

I have a 200 gallon water tank I want to build into a sprayer. It seems pretty straight forward to me, but ideas, suggestions and warnings would be appreciated!

If you want to stay LEVEL like using forks, then you need the snap couple hitch like this, with a 3 point BOX or deck behind that with correct geometry to the top link..

Something like this is what I'm thinking. None of the dimensions are figured, and the enigneering isn't done. I would the build a box to sit the tank on between the 3" x 3" tubes. The lift arms aren't adjustable, but not sure they would need to be.

just realize that the "LIFT" is going to pivot on the front Bail hitch... so the back end of the tank is going to swing thru an arc as it raises... Not a big problem.... thats basically how all implements on the snap coupler work.

Nice drawing...... what program ? ..... part of your work/ job ?

I miss having Solidworks available to me now that I am retired, it sure is a sweet design program

oopsy forgot to add..

made this 20 years ago, 42" forklift forks hang from it, will lift 2500# logs.

OK, she ain't a purdy store bought gal, but has worked GREAT since day one !!!

jaybmiller wrote:

That looks great!, and simple! You must back up to it, clip the lift arms on, and then swing the drawbar hook in?

Do you have any sketches or dimensions for it? I'll probably take my own, but a concensus would be great.

Are those lift arms pinned to the bottom? Does that make the forks lift level?

I always say I get to play on the computer all day. There's nothing quite as slick as solidworks. Fusion 360 is close - but it's not free anymore.

you can also draw it out on a piece of graph paper showing the LOWER and RAISE positions of the lower arms and upper arms... then measure various places on the lower arm and the height of vertical bars to try to get somewhat LEVEL lift design... PRIOR to cutting out any parts.

1/2" grade 8 bolts, lower arms are 1 1/2" square tubing, the "U" I bent by hand,lift latch pins are 5/8" bar so uprights are 1 1/2", 2" sleeve with 2" center 'post', 2" angle iron for cross pieces.

built it after getting the forks for free( dumpster dive), replaced the FREEMAN loader, so no real plans.... made the 'arms' first,long, then cut to length after making the snap coupler section.

You actually made me rethink my whole design. Probably do something closer to what you have. Then the frame that holds my water tank can have the same "hooks" that a pallet for has, and I can just back up and grab it.

Mine has hauled 1,000s of skids as well as 20 IBC totes..here,there, everywhere...

it even hauled tandem pull discs 2  miles to friends farm several times(stuck 'pole boom' into vertical tubing, several chains....kinda swayed a bit but everyone stayed away from me !

Rev 2 layout. I'm thinking the lower bar should be offset from the upper bar, so that when the lift is down with the forks on the fork tynes would be angled to parallel to the ground. The height of the top tyne carrier will need to be figured so that when the lift is all the way down, the tynes will be on the ground. Which may vary depending on the tynes used.

I used round bar on the bottom, because I'm thinking with a little modification of the layout you could adapt a universal skid steer connector to fit on this, with a couple hydraulic cylinders to control the pitch.

Got around to making a drawing. Anybody think this will work? 

The 1/4" holes in item 5 are for washers and pins to hold the lift arms in the right place - may or may not be needed.

Very little welding, but I would probably need someone to do the bending - not sure how to get around that. 

It *should* be able to go from all the way down - to touching the ground so the lift arms can pick it right up from the ground - to all the way up. On a D15 at least. Struggled to get it to avoid the pumpkin - but I will hopefully be building this in the next month or so.

With little modification to the 1" bar should be able to get a skid steer universal quick attach to work on it - maybe even with some hydraulics.

do the uprights #3 rotate with respect to the frame #1 ? .... what locks them together.

Welding ability is yet to be determined - I figured it'd be easier to find someone that could bend them while I wait, for cheaper, than I could find someone to weld the quality needed at the angles. Where the flats meet together there's a lot of space and a lot of weld I'm not too worried about sucking.

steve(ill) wrote: do the uprights #3 rotate with respect to the frame #1 ? .... what locks them together.

Implements in general around me are. About 4 times higher than elsewhere in the country - and AC stuff is almost non-existent. It's almost cheaper to ship LTL from 14hrs away than it is to try and buy old implements locally. 

I've seen people post single row model 70 JD planters on a cobbled 3pt hitch with obvious rattle can paint for $1,500 and the post isn't up for more than 72 hrs before it's sold. 

What I did recently is add a 3point conversion to my narrow front D-14 because it is so much easier to find inexpensive 3 point implements that I can use for my non farming needs in the woodlot and around the property.   Finding a used  brush hog mower in 3 point was SO much easier AND cheaper than a Snap Coupler set up as you indicated. 

I do enjoy building my own contraptions and they have worked well.   I built my own front loader fork frame to replace my bucket when needed, and use a couple old lift truck forks on it.  I drilled and bolted all the steel together and then took it to the weld shop to make it heavy duty with no worries.    

The one thing to be aware of with the snap coupler and even the 3 point conversion is the arc of travel and lift height for whatever you decide to do.  It is different geometry than the loader obviously and you need to take into account in your design.  A carryall , level in the middle of arc travel is considerably "angled" at all the way up and down.   You sure seem like the design aspect is right in your wheelhouse so material and functionality will be your costs.    Too fancy and  you could have paid for a 3 point conversion  AND carryall.   I like fabricating too so it appeals to me to DIY sometimes.

Similar to what rasman said... linkage needs to be specific length to make the forks LEVEL as you raise and lower... Length of rock shaft upper arms, to distance of vertical legs from the bail point, etc......

 I made a 3 point lift with forks and made the parts out of plywood and 2 x 2... Screwed it together and used 1/4 inch bolts for pivot points ... checking how the FORKS were for "LEVEL" as it raised and lowered... Changed the lengths of upper arms, pivot point location, etc .. until i got the forks as LEVEL as possible between raise and lower.

That was the SECOND attempt, after i initially made one without thinking and the forks were dipped 10 degrees down when on the ground and 20 degrees UP when you raised it ... not good.

steve(ill) wrote: do the uprights #3 rotate with respect to the frame #1 ? .... what locks them together.

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BOLO for something that looks like this:

https://www.diamondtoolstore.com/products/over-the-bucket-forks" rel="nofollow - https://www.diamondtoolstore.com/products/over-the-bucket-forks