Made a list of Immediate to buy components, Engine, Drive Train, Braking and Body work will come to around $7,000, Paint will be FAR less than the Big Wagon where estimate is around $1000, will invest in a Fresh roll of MIG Wire for panels installs.

As get all this complete will be installing a SRW Flatbed, already started a Purple Wave bid process on a Local City take off, will also need considerable reman so bid LOW.  Can buy a New one, are under $3500 at another local shop at Swiss MO if previous fails, just have to add what I see as necessities on that as can.

Short list is Bed disposal, cab removal, clean and repaint frame.  Next up with cab off, Turbocharger replacement kit and Valve cover harness with Glow plugs change, final brake tube behind fuel tank replace, all P/S hoses swap, AC hoses, condenser, compressor and clutch replace, P/S Pump and Fluid change.  Air Intake boots replace, with as can inspect found as failed repairs.  New Shocks, replace ALL Wheels as are corrupted and seeping thru aluminum, spare rotted under truck and still has OEM 1999 Firestone on it.  E Brake cables and any other repairs there.  New body cushions, a replacement St Column Rag Joint. Full inner rocker panels with outers, cab rear corners, all Four Doors and both front fenders, rear door latch mechanisms, headlamp housings, rear third brake lamp replace, rear glass replace slider with solid.  Some Body Work beyond above, replace floor carpet with rubber, DEEP Clean Interior, headliner reline and console recover(Local does this), repaint cab and all hardware all one color.

Have to laugh, Nephew that was just a BOY when bought this wants it as I get done in use of it after the reman.  Was first truck he was allowed to drive on his Dad's place we initially bought my 180 for.  He is 38 this year.

Have to add, resealed front axle this last year, one has returned to leaking so back into that.  Has New ball joints, 90% all disc brakes, all remaining brake tubes are changed and new flex hoses frame to axles two years ago.  New tires two years ago.  Really wanted a NEWER truck, but for $10gr can I really afford to go buy a different project at $35-40gr?

ALL four doors are rotted from Inside, Bed to Frame supports are nearly completely rusted away, frame so far is showing solid.  R F Fender has a Tree Gnarl at front and both rusted at cab lower corner, rockers are SAD.  Upper Rear Door latches gave up last year., tail gate fell away from rust last year, was hanging on cables when caught it.

Been as good a machine as could have asked for.  7.3 is a boat anchor, is a hog in soft ground as front buries rapidly, but is worth the trouble.

https://quincy.craigslist.org/grd/d/birmingham-steel-flat-bed/7698612515.html" rel="nofollow - https://quincy.craigslist.org/grd/d/birmingham-steel-flat-bed/7698612515.html

I put a flatdeck on my F100..30 ? years ago, bought a Lincoln AC-225-S welder some 7018AC rods ,it actually worked out very well.

Now IF I'd KNOWN I'd still have my current '97 F150, I'd have oiled the snot out of it EVERY year since '99 when I bought it. Sigh..... NOTHING left of the front bed rails, rad support is 'MIA',left rocker 'MIA', drivers door  lower 'sill', hmmm...'MIA'.dang SALT....woulda,shoulda,coulda, sigh.....

Truck only has 88,000 miles on it ,starts ,runs, stops and I spent 10 hours replacing the plastic sugar cube that makes PRNDL show what gear the tranny is in WORK again....

Currents:

Spare was SO degraded was making hands Black as touched it, is Dismounted where wheel is also scrap, sidewalls were splitting as dismounted!  Was from first set of Replacement Tires I put on the truck, as came with Street Treads on it new.  Date Code from 2000 as installed 2001.

Under the Bed

Now to get another 3-5 years.

Will be dropping tank today or tomorrow to replace brake tubing behind it and to ready that section of frame for rust encapsulation paint.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=us47ifRvIjE" rel="nofollow - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=us47ifRvIjE

Abrasive media blasting is always best as a clean substrate is beneficial to start with and will reveal weak spots commonly overlooked.

After got up this morning hauled the tires to the tire shop for rim swaps, have the spare to balance and the OLD spare Tire to discard.  Went by Sale Yard for the truck bed, install requires Four Points of mounting for the Goose Ball to qualify.  Will be reusing the Reese Hitch angle irons to frame, with Angle Irons bolted to them to weld on the new bed.  Fore and Aft hangers are strictly for bed stability and will be as rep stated reasonable but minimal.  Weld to New Bed rails, Bolt with at least a 1/2" Gr 8 Fastener to Frame is all that is called for at those two points.

Started removing rear brakes and hubs for P-Brake repairs, pads went to self destruct mode, rotors appear shot, pistons froze SOLID in calipers and as expected Hub Seals leaking.  TOUCHED Dust Shield, collapsed into piles of rust dust.  OH ME OH MY!!  $$$$ Keep Flashing!!

Soon as rear brakes are complete down to Bleeding and tires BACK ON, will set up to lift the cab for Turbo remove..

SO Glad kept my OLD automotive tools.

Will bag the two rear brake/hub assemblies, then ready to paint rear frame section tomorrow. After paint dries, will set next body mounting brackets and reset fuel tank, possibly install rear shocks and rear wheel park brake cables.

Front Brake hoses on, tubing Connected, old Core Support Mounts cut away removed and frame cleared of loose rust.  Rear Frame was painted with tank rehung, PBrake parts installed and rear axle/brake repairs done down to bleeding, Cab is Up, turbo swapped and awaiting other engine parts to ready to reset the cab.  Have the new mounts ready for that point.   Likely to paint front frame Today.

   Keeping track of your time??

 Looking GOOD there, Dave,,definately a labor of love but will be like or even better than new when you finish up,,,

 I can relate to your frustration with USPS I have recently had to go thru several OH, OH's with USPS and the resident Post Master does not seem to be very interested in anyone's issues,,,!!  I had ordered an item that originated somewhere "Over Yonder" and after getting a ride to see the whole world (two weeks) it finally made it to Austin, Tx and then languished there for 32 days before some "observant" postal employee noticed the package in that cubby hole, pulled it out and sent it on it's way,,,,!!  SHEEEESH,,!! Since then,,,I've had my RFID wallet magically get removed from it's plastic shipping bag and bag taped up by USPS with a tag "DELIVERED IN DAMAGED CONDITION",,,,Then,,just yesterday received a box with a "hand sized hole" in the side of box with several loose items rolling around inside. I'm going to take both examples to the Post Master to get his comments and file a claim.  Double SHEEESH,,!!

That stated, have to await 15 WORKING Days, from time of Reports, in our case could be Either as the Accident occurred or when I voiced concerns, either way will be just at TWO MORE Weeks prior to accepting the Priority Mail is permanently lost where either shipper or recipient can apply for the $100 insurance on that $300 worth of engine parts.  Will be in touch with Swag Performance that day of end of two weeks, as they will need to contact PO and send me another ALREADY PAID FOR Shipment I never received.

So today I lowered the cab back to the frame where it can sit unattended for next two weeks.

I may be going through much the same here Dave, making valiant attempt to purchase a 2010 F-350 with a blown turbocharger so the cab needs lifted. 6.4ltr engine and full four door cab. Can't justify the cost of relatively new and I can repair this one.

Gets so damned annoying dealing with the shipping morons any longer. Lost two jobs as wasn't able to get to them before the parties bugged out before the severe weather hit. One job got parts for and now need to send them back as task performed in AZ, the other still haven't received anything in the order and it's been canceled.

So Completed the Frame Paint, even sprayed rear hitch and reinstalled.    Had sat cab back down but raised back up today.  Had PLENTY of time so cleaned up floor around truck.

Ordered .023 wire for the Millermatic 210, already have wire rolls and tips, bought a Liner for the lighter wire but been told can get away with heavier liner if not using full time.

All pieces in pristine condition

Guess means Back To Work!!

Seems she had a BAD Week of Training, went to a Local Liquor Slushie Shop, got a tad inebriated and had me come get her.  Three puke stops five miles, had to carwash car today and lysol wipe the inside of passenger door, ICKY.  She is suffering, quietly on the couch currently.

That said got brake leaks where were occurring sealed up(MANY), managed to get all the base engine compartment materials set and had engine running today, no leaks to note and turbo spooled into service just fine.  As to the Brake leaks, the New SS Tubing requires a LOT of Brute Crush to get the Double Flares to seat out, got that from my brothers who have also used them.

Some dressing work on previous spot welds, and must have been 200 of them on Left side, then predrill new Inner Rocker for MIG welding in place, Weld Thru Primer on as much as can cover then weld it up.  First back on will be fit up and install Corner, then Rear Door threshold, then the Forward Door threshold.  Then move to Right Side repeat.

Guy from Minneapolis deals with Roll Offs and End Dumps called on the KW, gonna come look Monday or Tuesday with his Wife, SHE saw it on Truck Paper. I have No real hopes of a sale, but he is driving 8 hours to come see.

Having to allow the Slicin and Dicin to heal awhile before slip the arms back in the razor blade barrel.

BOTH arms look as that, snag heaven anywhere near edges.

2017 and up to 2021 are same line that will remain in production, the company reps noted the Company feels the Longevity of the 99-16 line got out of control and they need to see NEW Truck Sales.  IH is reported to be shutting down Anything related to the 7.3 next.

The supply rep note GM is going to screen down supplies for the Square Bodies and the early New Cab style of the 90s, they want Those GONE as well.

The Current BO status been found of suppliers for New Door shells is not going to correct.

Yesterday the local shop does Upholstery work got my Headliner and Console compartment cover done, they are back home for $360.

Not a bad product. Try U-Pol in copper based spray can. I purchased by the case it was so favored. 

yea,, this way ya can't fix up your older pre-emission stuff, force ya to 'update',, or find used parts that may not be any better than you already have,, 

oh yea,, prolly can thank the EPA,, I'm sure they had some part in doing this.... 

The earlier DDEC Detroit Engines are impossible to get internals for these days unless a Builder has them stockpiled, Detroit is Owned by Daimler Benz.  Cummins announced last Year, the N14, is now Obsolete for Factory Parts, the NH and NT series has been that way for close to ten years now.  try getting a Cummins shop to rebuild a PT Pump, will refer a Independent as they eliminated the tests stands and equipment to build those.  Cat is still making parts and servicing C series Engines, C12,15,18, are still popular in Heavy Equipment but new engines are in the works to obsolete these.

MACK is now Wholly owned by VOLVO, the changeover to a Volvo Line is eventual and a discontinuance to the base Design Thermodyne series engines and the forever lived top loader rear ends is already underway.  IHC is Wholly owned by Volkswagon, Freightliner trucks Companies is Wholly owned by Daimler/Benz.  PACCAR is the Last Remaining US OWNED and BUILT Heavy truck Line.  PACCAR Engines are made under contract by Cummins, HOWEVER, ALL Warranty is dealt with IN HOUSE with PACCAR, Cummins will not even entertain working in their shops.

ALL current Build Tier 4 engines are a Trash as Dies design, Expense to Overhaul a X Series Cummins is in Excess of $25,000 in Parts alone.  Rods, Heads, all Disposable and NOT recoverable to a Reman Engine, Blocks have One Shot at a deck true then are at Min Spec to build ever again.  Cats were of this intent but the High nickel Blocks proved manageable for two to three machining and are thicker Head Spacers and Gaskets for that spacer still in production.  IHC is being slowly removed from ANY engines production, the DT based electronic engines and the latest/greatest MAXXFORCE engines are being removed from construct lines by VW for existing Daimler or Cummins power.  Volvo trucks have the LEAST longevity on US Roads, 7 years parts begin to Obsolesce, at Nine years a Model type change eliminates all but outsourced Used parts especially electronics control equipment.  Those in the RV Game that bought them are now dealing with Unavailability up to NON Rebuildable parts as are Volvo Specific for repair parts.

AG equipment is following similar lines.

Inners are Both sewn on, will need to dress out some then prime over before move to cab corner caps then the outer rockers.

Welds looked FAR better when moved to wearing Cheaters under Hood.

Scrap is down to $150/t steel and $.90lb for such as Clean Aluminum Wheels, sheet aluminum was only $.35/lb.  And Copper 70%(Still sheathed or Burned away) only $1.00/lb.  Cannot imagine the Gawking Looks I received dragging the 16footer behind Big Blue??

So, sat comfortably explained by Email, was The LAST TIME EVER I would deal with their BS service, even Screen printed the NEGATIVE value for their services and parts supplied, would NOT recommend ANYONE ever buy thru their Bait and Switch sales game.

Apologies came yet informed parts were mailed, explained again, IDNGAF, are trash, will be trashed as arrive, and the review will stand.  

Was fordpartsconnect  Keyport NJ

That troublesome Ford Dealer parts department, well I got Mad, hand wrote a letter to the Dealer Manager, records numbers, dates, spoke to names and end result, received a Email the Refund was on my CC, were disciplinary actions in process, wished me a good day and was done.

Soon as the welding phase is done will be back to cab roof body work and readying for epoxy priming all the new parts and body work.  Then have to wait on paint for finances to catch up.

Need to dress down welds, have to finish rear of Right Cap but had to attain a replacement Argon/CO2 bottle to continue welding.  Then can add in the Outer Rocker Panels and get to prepping, with plastic cover work of body work and priming.

Can really see the Dent been removed Lower Right Corner, similar done at L Upper.  Have Woven Cookie grinder wheel will be removing the Seam Cover in the two cab channels and replacing with a Two Part hardening flowable self leveling filler as it has pulled away from the cab skin.

Wife none to amused with me as removed that seeping KW fuel tank, took to Car Wash and flushed as much as could remove internally, hauled it to Haslag Welding Krakow MO, 3-5 weeks will be Strapped and bad spots repairs.  Hauled in Her Explorer as the Above truck is a bit out of service!!!

Getting there on Ford Roof, will post a later photo as the Channels have had the Seam Sealant removed and primed for today's activity of replacing that as was pulling away from the roof sheet allowing moisture to corrode the skin.  Body filler work is 99% completed on Cab and R Rr replacement Door.

Sanded the Grinding work and dings Grits: 180, 320, 600, 1000 then ran over the entire tank with a Buffer.  All back Installed.

Providing all looks good after priming, will be ordering paint, returning to the original JM Code Toreador Red Metallic, no gray under panel this time.

interesting about the 50/50 tank !

I wonder if anyone's ever put the wrong juice in the wrong side of the tank ???

Or worse... the 'baffle' between the two sides  leaks a bit ?

Underside and lower region of cab were sprayed with Epoxy Primer to seal the weld areas and to protect the already surface corroding floor pan.  On the roof, all four doors the hood and fenders was recommended I use a Self Etching primer undercoat as the original finish had corrupted so deep and so badly had to nearly strip to bare metal, especially the hood.  Once that had contact dried(about 20 minutes) sprayed a second primer coat of what Shop Line (PPG) calls 2K Heavy Build as it presents a Heavier applied finish for a final sand.  Requires a Sanding prior to paint overlay.    So next step is W/D 500 gr on general areas, a quick dry sand on those areas as Hood and Roof where the material spattered on spray then back to 500 W/D.  ALL these primers are urethane Epoxy two part and a Bear to get applied before starts setting up.  I was only mixing 18-20oz and shooting from a 24oz DeKups system on my HVLP gun.

In places on the Floor pan to Cab Pillar rocker and outer rocker with cross members are four panels welded into the assembly.

Fenders are like handling tinfoil, the doors are clumsy and tough to deal with on horses but was only choice for me.  One damn rear door slipped on the horses and hit the floor with a corner where had to stop, straighten that corner up and yesterday sanded then filled that spot, made me so very unhappy!!!  When ordered paint also ordered additional 2K primer so can touch up that and a few other 'Spots'.  ALL the panels on the truck seem 'Soft' and 'tender' as to slight impact dent-able.