1-  S/N is C38660 which i believe is a 1940 model if it's a B

2- Engine s/n is CE50966G which should be a 125 cu in gas engine

3- Steering box is in front of gas tank behind engine which i take is a B

4-  Front end is wide front wishbone style which is typical of a B.

5-  Rear wheels are a 5 bolt pattern which is C characteristic.

6-  Brakes are foot pedals only, a left and right pedal on right side.  I saw somewhere where B's had hand brakes.

7- Seat is a wide rectangle, not a pan type so that indicates a B typically.

8- no hydraulics, just the curved drawbar.  

The motor is frozen with two sleeves blown out due to water in the block.  So that's my biggest first step.

On top of this, i was told this tractor had a 12V conversion.  However it has a 12 volt battery but also a generator.  The starter is 6V but it also has an upright distributor and coil.  Starter is a pull rod.  there is no key switch.  Generator is a one wire configuration.  Electric box has a couple non-original switches. (no headlights).

Sorry for the length of post  but I'm struggling to figure what I need for identifying to right parts to get.  I know there  is not a big difference but I'd at least like to promote it for what it is.  It's a great little (rusty) tractor and i look forward to working on it but any comments would sure be appreciated.  Thanks in advance.

If a "C" is set to that narrow of track, the axle end ( 5 bolts) would be at the very outside of the tire.... If its a "B", the bolt would be setting in the center of the tire ( side to side)...

Both tractors were 6 volt, and a 12 volt battery can be installed and the old generator will barely keep up... Or it could be just an idler and they were charging it in the shop every week..... Wide seat is both tractors.... PAN did not come original on the B or C.

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"C" steering... note the steer box under the gas tank has an arm that points UP.

"B" only had hand brakes prior to 1940 ..... MOST had foot brakes as did ALL of the "C".

Curved Drawbar will be about a foot WIDER on a C as compared to a B.... but same basic design.

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couple photos and additional info

https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/difference-between-allis-model-b-and-c_topic178682.html" rel="nofollow - https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/difference-between-allis-model-b-and-c_topic178682.html

Thanks Steve for the instructions.  Here's attempt to post some pictures......Oops, no good.  i'll try to resize them.

Still too big.  I'll try to make the next one smaller.

So here's the serial number.  It has a "C" in front on the number.  Does that mean a Model C ???  C38660

If it's a  B, it's a 1940.  If a C, it's a 1946..

me

This is the front end of the tractor.  It appears to me to be obvious "B".

This shows the steering arms.  Again looks obvious "B" to me.

Ok, here are the rear wheels.  The bolts on the center hub are recessed only about an inch so that probably answers the 60" on center comments.

If your photo is TOO BIG to upload.. open it in PAINT or other program and RESIZE it and save... prior to  uploading to ALLIS site.

Duane R wrote: ...  From reviewing a lot of post plus other internet and manual information I may have a Frankenstein tractor...

I believe this is correct

Duane R wrote: On top of this, i was told this tractor had a 12V conversion.  However it has a 12 volt battery but also a generator...  Generator is a one wire configuration...

Hmmm... some alternators only have one wire but generators typically use at least two. Pictures would be most helpful.

My Model C measures right at 5' center to center at the rear wheels.

And Les asked about the one wire generator.  The electric motor repair shop said it was wired that way as the second wire is grounded to the generator.  He said that was because there were no headlights.  He also said I would burn it out with a 12V battery.

So it seems that the tractor has a  B front end and a C rear end (by serial #).  If that's the case, what do i call my tractor, a B or a C ???

I did find another B tractor complete. Another option would be to buy that one and use mine as a parts tractor.  My motor is stuck and has two piston sleeves that are  blown out from water in the motor. (froze).  Don't know if the block is any good yet.

Appreciate all your expertise!!

Dont have to be strictly a B or a C... Depends on what you want to do with it.. Do you need the WIDE rear end, or narrower.... If your looking at another B, it probably will have flat rear hubs that press onto a 2 inch splined shaft with a BIG NUT to retain it.. grab the top of the tire and PUSH toward the seat back and forth to see if there is any WIGGLE in the spline ... That can  potentially be a wear spot..

Motors are the same at this point.. Dont matter if it is 1940- 1946 or 1952... Your going to need new pistons and liners and rings.. Most of the "KITS" are now oversize at 3-9/16 bore compared to the original 3-1/2 ... and you will get the NEW compression ratio, where original could have been 5, 6 ,7 to 1... lots of random numbers over the years.

The generator story is nonsence.. The generator has two terminals "A" and "F" ... The "A" is power out to the battery... the "F" is grounded at the light switch box thru a resistor to get 3 amp charge.. If you ground it DIRECTLY it will put out 8-9 amps continuous.. Too much for a battery Constantly....( do you have a resistor on the ground wire at the gen ??)... And if it is setup for 3 amp charge, the generator can put out about 15 volts so can be used on a 12v battery... The BATTERY determines the generator output voltage.. It acts as the REGULATOR.

Thanks for the additional comments.  I think I'll call it a B because of the front end.  I'll probably see if i can find someone to overhaul the motor and move forward with what i have.  It has a Woods L306 belly mower that i have already refurbished.  Funny you noticed the water valve.  Apparently prior owner couldn't find a 5/8" nut anywhere.  LOL.  

Just FYI, I took pictures of the generator so you could see what the outside wiring look like.  I haven't open the electric box by the steering wheel but the overall wiring is a mess.

Thanks again all.....

So Stage 1 is done.  Stages 2-20 are next.  LOL

Apparently someone has wired the field directly to ground at the generator; thus "Full Fields" the generator at all times and is not a "Good Thing"

I'm coming into this a little late, but looking at the job you did on that mower, you'll do fine with the Tractor. As Les mentioned, I wouldn't leave that Generator like that. When that thing is running, you'll be able to have breakfast on that thing it'll be so hot. I'd run from that Auto Electric place. If you're going to keep the Tractor 6V, have the Gennie rebuilt the correct way. If you're thinking on moving to 12V, you can either have the Gennie changed over to 12V or go with an Alternator. Your choice. I offer complete wiring kits and also complete rebuilding services if interested. Go luck with your B project! They are a lot of work, but they are a lot fun as well!! I'm a B guy too!

Steve@B&B

bb-customcircuits.com

No problem Duane! Be glad to help ya out. If that's Steve's B model, that right there will give you the incentive alone. That bugger is sweet!  If you keep the B steering, you can use a number of different Alternators. I offer a kit for the B & IB, and I also offer a kit for the C &CA with the steering drag link that runs down the side. That particular kit I use either the "CS" Delco or the pint size Denso. Customer's choice...

Steve@B&B