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Engine rebuild

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=198377
Printed Date: 24 Sep 2024 at 1:27pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Engine rebuild
Posted By: cwsac.1
Subject: Engine rebuild
Date Posted: 25 Nov 2023 at 8:17am
I have a do you 17 going to end up rebuilding motor wondering how I could get to maybe 70 hp is that something that is capable of being done on pump gas? Feel free to give me any tips anyone might have



Replies:
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 25 Nov 2023 at 9:14am
70 PTO HP ??    4 1/8" overbore sleeves and pistons with 8.0 or 8.2 to 1 compression (that's the secret) with your camshaft reground to a "175" tractor grind and a D-19 carb made to fit the engine will get you right there at 1800 RPM rated load on 87 octane gas.  My reasoning?? A stock A-C 175 gas tractor made 61 HP at the PTO with 4 inch bore, 8.25 to 1 compression, better camshaft grind and a smaller carburetor, while having a 12 GPM hydraulic pump loading the engine.   1/8" extra bore +4 HP.   No 12 GPM hyd pump +3 or 4 HP. Larger D-19 carb another +3 or maybe 4 HP.  Good luck !!!


Posted By: cwsac.1
Date Posted: 25 Nov 2023 at 11:32am
Thanks be reading on stuff here that goes back 20 years just signed up day ago. I thought going with the 4 1/8 would actually drop compression figured that would be the compression ratio I would be looking for I see they make an LP kit or high octane kit with those parameters I think forgot to say it was a series 3. S# 701 12


Posted By: cwsac.1
Date Posted: 25 Nov 2023 at 11:33am
And yes, 70 at the PTO would be nice. Forgot to say that.


Posted By: cwsac.1
Date Posted: 25 Nov 2023 at 11:38am
Forgot to say, is it worth porting and polishing head


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 25 Nov 2023 at 12:12pm
GOING TO THE TYPICAL 4 1/8" DOES INDEED DROP COMPRESSION AS A RULE !!! Because these aftermarket venders don't understand. So, it's up to you to KNOW what you are getting !!   I think there are 4 1/8" flat tops that may meet this compression number. Porting ?? I don't do that on a farm tractor. You can shorten the intake guides on the bottom 1/2" to easily open things up.


Posted By: cwsac.1
Date Posted: 25 Nov 2023 at 12:18pm
Thanks for your input in time


Posted By: cwsac.1
Date Posted: 25 Nov 2023 at 12:18pm
And time


Posted By: cwsac.1
Date Posted: 25 Nov 2023 at 2:05pm
Any place that you recommend dealing with wind buying rebuild kits


Posted By: 560Dennis
Date Posted: 26 Nov 2023 at 7:44am
nos , least expensive 


Posted By: IBWD MIke
Date Posted: 26 Nov 2023 at 8:01am
Originally posted by 560Dennis 560Dennis wrote:

nos , least expensive 

Dennis, I think that would be hard to harness in a tractor pull! If you 'hit the button' early it would probably blow up before the end. If you waited until close to the end, probably just spin-out in spectacular fashion.


Posted By: Codger
Date Posted: 26 Nov 2023 at 8:15am
Arias Custom Pistons in CA will make you a set of pistons and work with you to ensure you get what you want. Not cost prohibitive in my opinion. They have many blanks to machine to your specifications and if you send them a good usable piston to start from, give them correct information of your desires, you will get what you need.

I had them make a set of pistons for one of my V8 Mack engines and they look almost duplicates of the originals. Only second machining operations I needed was to open up the pin bores as they could only do 2.00" where I needed 2.250" if memory serves. My uncle did that operation and fitted the new pins.  


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A career built on repairing and improving engineering design deficiencies, shortcomings, and failures over 50 years now.


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 26 Nov 2023 at 8:31am
I've used Ross Pistons over the years. Will make me whatever I want, and I always design the Power Crater piston bowl in the top. So, money not being a problem, source yourself four new 4 1/8" sleeves by themselves and have custom pistons made to your desired compression ratio to fit those new sleeves.


Posted By: cwsac.1
Date Posted: 26 Nov 2023 at 9:33am
Is that Ross racing pistons you’re talking then ? I see alot of people taking cam to berry cam in Minnesota for cam grinding.


Posted By: cwsac.1
Date Posted: 26 Nov 2023 at 9:47am
Putting D 19 carb on that involve some new connecting rods to be completed or not seeing that you’re talking about twisting it up to 1800 versus 1650 do I need different governor weights to accomplish that? And what is the difference between G block and W block I got a WD 45, which is supposedly the same block but does not look the same. 45 has a big plate on the casting behind distributor or a magneto or whatever you wanna call it.


Posted By: cwsac.1
Date Posted: 26 Nov 2023 at 10:16am
So I guess I got a couple other questions rear rims need to replace one center Rusted as well filled with fluid rusted out. I was considering putting Twheels on waiting for Michelin to get back to me seems to be hard to get any answers out of them I know they made them because when I went to go pick up this D 17 seen a couple tractors running around with them in Wisconsin. I know it won’t look proper. What other tractors have the same bolt pattern I don’t mind if they’re not adjustable. Thought I got a pretty good price though 400 bucks for this D 17 motor stuck guy down the road had a couple one diesel think the other one was a series 4 he was asking 3000 bucks for tractors, not running needing a bunch of parts so I think I did all right


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 26 Nov 2023 at 10:29am
I thought this started out as a thread about a D-17 tractor/D-17 engine ??  Now, you're describing a WC/WD block with a plate on the right side??? Are we talking tractor pulling here??? or do you want to use this engine to farm with ???   Your BEST engine build begins with a G-226/D-17 engine that has 3 inch diameter main bearings in it. The WC/WD/WD45 engine family has 2 1/2" diameter mains.  D-17 conn rods are fine, but the newer the engine is the better, as the forgings improved in the later engines. There are different governor weights and things to do to the governor without going over 2100 RPM high idle/no load.  D-19 carb requires mods to make it fit, YES.   Why don't you get the engine built and running with a D-17 carb and go from there. I loaned Berry Cams a brand new AC 175 camshaft to make a "pattern" from 30+ years ago. They should know how to do it, but I understand the people I dealt with aren't there any more.  EDIT:  If this engine is to be used as a"farming" engine, and used at the highest HP it can develop a good deal of the time, let it be known to you, it will not run as many hours of service life as a bone stock engine. It can't. You will be increasing the speed of wear on crankshaft main and rod bearings from the extra pressure from making HP. The more hours it spends making 70 HP the less hours it will run before needing bearings. Horsepower ain't for free!!!  If it is used far more hrs at a lesser HP output and occasionally high HP output, that is a good thing for longer life.


Posted By: cwsac.1
Date Posted: 26 Nov 2023 at 6:34pm
Yeah I know I need to stay on topic newbie no pulling tractor just gonna use it to bail hay mostly just for fun. Got a little obsessed with tractors the last couple months. poler would be fun maybe sometime


Posted By: cwsac.1
Date Posted: 26 Nov 2023 at 6:48pm
So I’m basically looking for the horsepower to run a baler, hoping I would needn’t to run it wide open no I don’t know what Baler I will be using yet was hoping to run some small round baler like 30 bales.


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 26 Nov 2023 at 7:18pm
Balers are ran at 540 PTO speed/1650 RPM on the D-17 engine. Find yourself some  4 1/8" flat top piston/sleeve kit as I think someone has an 8.0 to 1 compression ratio offered. Do the camshaft grind if you want. Stick with stock carb for 1650 RPM so your governor action is acceptable. The 70 HP number was based upon 1800 loaded RPM. Can't do that with a baler at 1650 RPM. You don't need 70 HP for a baler size the weight of a D-17 can handle anyway.


Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 26 Nov 2023 at 9:42pm
A stock D17 gas or diesel will handle a square baler with ease. My WD has no issue so expecting my D17D to handle it with ease next year. I can’t wait until hay season next year…I hope we have one after this years disaster year.

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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD


Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 27 Nov 2023 at 5:00am
A D-17 will handle an average small baler, but I know a guy who has one of the newer Hesston inline small square balers and he pulls a 15 bale Kuhn accumulator. He says he needs at least 100 hp. on the baler. 
They make big windrows and run the baler near it's capacity. He says they can easily bale 2500 bales per day. 


Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 27 Nov 2023 at 5:43am
I have High Compression Flattops in my D17 that I searched for a long time to find. They are in the 8 or higher compression range. Look for SK156 pistons, They will give you a few more HP. 
I assume you are talking about a Round baler?


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Charlie

'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD


Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 27 Nov 2023 at 5:55am
Originally posted by Charlie175 Charlie175 wrote:

I have High Compression Flattops in my D17 that I searched for a long time to find. They are in the 8 or higher compression range. Look for SK156 pistons, They will give you a few more HP. 
I assume you are talking about a Round baler?

Are you able to run regular gas with the flat top pistons?


Posted By: cwsac.1
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2023 at 7:39am
Thanks sk# number yes round bales


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2023 at 8:48am
8.0 or 8.2 to 1 compression ratio will run on 87 octane gas, YES. Ignition timing should be retarded from 25 degrees BTDC down to 22 or 23 degrees BTDC as per an A-C bulletin 45 yrs ago.


Posted By: HudCo
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2023 at 8:54am
is that a wd 4 inch stroke piston


Posted By: cwsac.1
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2023 at 8:58am
The one I found was 4 1/8 with that SKU


Posted By: cwsac.1
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2023 at 9:05am
Good to know timing thanks knowI just need to get out it. Dang cold out though. let you know how it goes after I get all my measurements.


Posted By: HudCo
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2023 at 9:31am
what is the pin hight


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2023 at 9:47am
Charlie, were yours 4 inch bore ?? or I'm thinking they were 4 1/8" ??


Posted By: cwsac.1
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2023 at 10:02am
Descriptions didn’t give compression ratio says high compression flat top pistons no Pin height given tried contacting vendor to ask questions waiting for a callback.


Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2023 at 11:38am
Originally posted by DrAllis DrAllis wrote:

8.0 or 8.2 to 1 compression ratio will run on 87 octane gas, YES. Ignition timing should be retarded from 25 degrees BTDC down to 22 or 23 degrees BTDC as per an A-C bulletin 45 yrs ago.

The reason I asked was I have heard some of the guys saying that they were getting compression ratios of 12:1 with flat top pistons and some had to run aviation fuel.


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2023 at 11:57am
It's not because they are flat top pistons. It's because they are so tall they have 12 to 1 compression ratio. A flat top piston in an AC of a specific pin height is higher compression than a Power crater piston of the same exact height because there is no bowl.


Posted By: cwsac.1
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2023 at 12:09pm
You probably already know the pin height needed don’t you dr to get 8.2 to 1


Posted By: HudCo
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2023 at 6:23pm
some one buy buy some stuff and measure it so i do not buy somthing i do not want . 


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2023 at 7:14pm
For 4.125" bore pistons with flat tops, I calculate a piston pin height of 2.300" to 2.305" to come out at 8.2 to 1.


Posted By: cwsac.1
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2023 at 8:08pm
Cool very good thanks. Just curiosity how do you have all this crap memorized where you tractor, mechanics or something dr?


Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 29 Nov 2023 at 7:14am
If I were wanting to run a round baler, the best modification I'd do to my D17's engine, is to get a Two-Twenty with a cab and AC.

Why?

The D17 is a fantastic tractor for raking hay, and making square bales.  In my Grandfather's words, it was the 'finest hay-making tractor ever built'... and I agree, for the probably millions of square bales we put up...  and that was the mainstay production system, until the Hesston square-baler showed up.

Grandpa ran some round bales with the D17, but it wasn't the tractor's engine that was the greatest need, it was environmental comfort and safety.  Running the big roundie was absolutely impossible if the breeze came at you from any direction other than directly in your face.

I would not recommend an engine build investment on a D17 simply to run a round baler... I'd get a higher-power tractor with cab and AC... because there's a whole lot more to being effective and comfortable making round bales, than just compression ratio and fuel octane and PTO horsepower.

IF you have to build an engine's output up to make enough power for an agricultural load application, there's more significant problems waiting in the field that will stop your production when you're in the most operational peril.


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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.


Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 29 Nov 2023 at 7:19am
Originally posted by cwsac.1 cwsac.1 wrote:

Cool very good thanks. Just curiosity how do you have all this crap memorized where you tractor, mechanics or something dr?


He's been doing this a LOOOOOONG time...Wink


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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.


Posted By: Gary
Date Posted: 29 Nov 2023 at 7:29am

He is not referred to as "Dr Allis" just to have a 'cool name' LOL

G


Posted By: cwsac.1
Date Posted: 29 Nov 2023 at 7:34am
Yeah, I understand it’s not big enough for today’s standards, but I only got one horse to feed not going in the business of making hay Mostly fun and don’t want to deal with a little square bales


Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 30 Nov 2023 at 7:04am
The more economically sensible option, then, is to buy round bales... and either pay a little to have them delivered, or borrow a bale mover.

I'm neither an equestrian enthusiast nor a cattleman, but I've been just-entwined-enough in both to get the picture...  For just one horse, you'd get much better quality, and lower waste with hand fed squares.

The other option, if you REALLY want to bale, and particularly if you're looking for an outlet for historical enthusiasm, is to look for an Allis Roto-Baler.  It'll run nicely behind a WD-and-up.  They made a cool loader to pick 'em up, too.

Putting cubic money into an engine may bring up PTO horsepower, it doesn't address any other issues that a large round baler's operation includes.


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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.


Posted By: cwsac.1
Date Posted: 30 Nov 2023 at 7:21am
Buying them is not as fun probably have to break down and get a bigger one after I’m done dealing with this one


Posted By: HudCo
Date Posted: 30 Nov 2023 at 7:45pm
dont know a bout a round baler but i grew up with a freind that baled round bales with a 3020 john deere  but the d17 running the new holland small square baler is the best hay baling combo ever made,  we custom baled in all conditions with a d17d when i was young


Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 30 Nov 2023 at 11:35pm
That's exactly what my Grandfather used... I spent three long weeks each summer on the rack with my uncle, loading them from stern to stem, hitching 10 racks up in a train, to the 6x6, with four more in the field, he sent me to drive that train through the field, up the apron, across the road, and up the gravel hill, into the big field north of the dairy barn, then into a big circle, set the brakes, shut it down, leave it in low, and walk the two miles back down to help fill the last four.  My hands hurt just thinkin' about throwin' all those bales.  The 6x6 went mebbie a whole 4mph in 4th gear throttled to 1200rpm, and while it was a really uncomfortable noisy drive, it sure felt nice to spend 20 minutes off my feet while that beast growled up that grade.


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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.


Posted By: NEVER green
Date Posted: 01 Dec 2023 at 8:38am
Originally posted by DaveKamp DaveKamp wrote:

If I were wanting to run a round baler, the best modification I'd do to my D17's engine, is to get a Two-Twenty with a cab and AC.

Why?

The D17 is a fantastic tractor for raking hay, and making square bales.  In my Grandfather's words, it was the 'finest hay-making tractor ever built'... and I agree, for the probably millions of square bales we put up...  and that was the mainstay production system, until the Hesston square-baler showed up.

Grandpa ran some round bales with the D17, but it wasn't the tractor's engine that was the greatest need, it was environmental comfort and safety.  Running the big roundie was absolutely impossible if the breeze came at you from any direction other than directly in your face.

I would not recommend an engine build investment on a D17 simply to run a round baler... I'd get a higher-power tractor with cab and AC... because there's a whole lot more to being effective and comfortable making round bales, than just compression ratio and fuel octane and PTO horsepower.

IF you have to build an engine's output up to make enough power for an agricultural load application, there's more significant problems waiting in the field that will stop your production when you're in the most operational peril.

  Even with a cab tractor while round baling I would turn out of the windrow to face the wind.   Takes more time, yep, could not stand all that dust and debris getting in every nook and cranny.


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2-8050 1-7080 6080 D-19 modelE & A 7040   R50       



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