Farm Equipment - 7000 traction booster/3 point problem

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7000 traction booster/3 point problem

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=197845
Printed Date: 24 Sep 2024 at 9:31pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com

Topic: 7000 traction booster/3 point problem

Posted By: Mrgoodwrench
Subject: 7000 traction booster/3 point problem
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2023 at 9:18am

Within the last year we have picked up 2, 7000 tractors. One of them came to us with the traction booster Control cables disconnected. This isn't a problem since we have no plans on plowing with this tractor. Everything else with the 3-point seems to function normally. the second tractor however has an odd issue. The 3 point will only function if the lever is placed in the traction booster position and then raised using the booster lever. The 3-point lever will lower the arms. we were into some brake work on it this weekend and decided to look a little further. we disconnected the traction booster cables(just like the other tractor) to see if it changed anything. It did not. i cant understand how the spool can move without moving the arms. all other hydraulic functions on the tractor seem normal.

Any thoughts?

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There are 3 ways to do job GOOD, FAST, CHEAP. YOU MAY CHOOSE 2. If its FAST & CHEAP it won't be GOOD, if it's GOOD & CHEAP it won't be FAST, and if its GOOD & FAST it won't be CHEAP!!!!

Replies:

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2023 at 5:25pm

So you know how it should work. With the engine OFF, pull the LIFT/LOWER lever to the rear. It should lock into the raise detent position and stay there. If it does not, I assume the lever/linkage is out of synch. You do not say if this is a maroon tractor with the gearshift on the floor ?? I assume it is. Loosen the three bolt heads inside the right fender and move the console up (or down) until the lift/lower lever and the two remote levers are in-line with each other when they are ALL in the hold position. Then, your lift/lower lever should lock into raise. Maybe there's just one bolt at the front of the console inside the cab. Been too many years since I've had to synch the levers. All of these tractors must be 1500++ RPM to get the hydraulics to work. Some more RPM than others.

Posted By: Mrgoodwrench
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2023 at 7:37pm

I’ll have to take a look at that adjustment. Yes it is a maroon belly

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There are 3 ways to do job GOOD, FAST, CHEAP. YOU MAY CHOOSE 2. If its FAST & CHEAP it won't be GOOD, if it's GOOD & CHEAP it won't be FAST, and if its GOOD & FAST it won't be CHEAP!!!!

Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 24 Oct 2023 at 5:22am

DrAllis wrote:

So you know how it should work. With the engine OFF, pull the LIFT/LOWER lever to the rear. It should lock into the raise detent position and stay there. If it does not, I assume the lever/linkage is out of synch. You do not say if this is a maroon tractor with the gearshift on the floor ?? I assume it is. Loosen the three bolt heads inside the right fender and move the console up (or down) until the lift/lower lever and the two remote levers are in-line with each other when they are ALL in the hold position. Then, your lift/lower lever should lock into raise. Maybe there's just one bolt at the front of the console inside the cab. Been too many years since I've had to synch the levers. All of these tractors must be 1500++ RPM to get the hydraulics to work. Some more RPM than others.

Doc,

You never cease to amaze me with your knowledge. Thanks for being part of this forum and helping us!!!

Posted By: Mrgoodwrench
Date Posted: 26 Oct 2023 at 8:24am

I believe you are correct but I cant figure out how to adjust as you described. Any chance you have any pics in a book? I do see that I have more play in the lift lever than I like but it will not come back and latch. am i trying to move the entire console or just some internal parts? i see there are 3 bolts that mount the console to the side of the cab that have slotted holes but the console has a "leg" that bolts to the floor and it does not seem that the holes in it are slotted. any help you can offer would be great.

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There are 3 ways to do job GOOD, FAST, CHEAP. YOU MAY CHOOSE 2. If its FAST & CHEAP it won't be GOOD, if it's GOOD & CHEAP it won't be FAST, and if its GOOD & FAST it won't be CHEAP!!!!

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 26 Oct 2023 at 8:31am

The whole console moves up and down when you loosen (I think) the front retaining bolt to the side of the cab wall. It doesn't have to move only 1/4" or more to make the levers get in-line with each other. The reason for needing to adjust this dimension is the rubber cab mounts have settled with years of use.

Posted By: Mrgoodwrench
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2023 at 12:58pm

DrAllis wrote:

The whole console moves up and down when you loosen (I think) the front retaining bolt to the side of the cab wall. It doesn't have to move only 1/4" or more to make the levers get in-line with each other. The reason for needing to adjust this dimension is the rubber cab mounts have settled with years of use.

Well once again the good doctor provides the answer. this time maybe without even realizing it...

when i read "rubber cab mounts have settled" a light bulb lit. the hoods on this tractor don't line up very well at all. sooo a quick look under the cab revealed my fears, the cross member is gone. well at least 60% gone. I'm thinking of fabbing up a channel to slip over the rusted one and working from there. Anyone eve fix on of these with out pulling the cab?

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There are 3 ways to do job GOOD, FAST, CHEAP. YOU MAY CHOOSE 2. If its FAST & CHEAP it won't be GOOD, if it's GOOD & CHEAP it won't be FAST, and if its GOOD & FAST it won't be CHEAP!!!!