point gap
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=196931
Printed Date: 25 Sep 2024 at 11:33am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: point gap
Posted By: Trinity45
Subject: point gap
Date Posted: 30 Aug 2023 at 8:19am
| My manual says the point gap for a CA is .022 but she doesn't seem to run to well after replacing the points and plugs. Any suggestions. |
Replies:
Posted By: IBWD MIke
Date Posted: 30 Aug 2023 at 8:25am
|
I always set mine at .020". Right or wrong that seems to work. |
Posted By: DanielW
Date Posted: 30 Aug 2023 at 9:32am
|
A lot of new points have an anti-corrosion coating on the contact surface that inhibits conduction. Often enough to just cause erratic behavior, but sometimes enough to stop them from conducting altogether. In the old days running a dollar bill or brown paper bag between the points was enough to clean it off once they were installed. On the last couple of sets I've installed this hasn't been enough - I've actually had to give them one swipe with a points file before they worked well. Just make sure your points file is very clean and fully degreased.
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Posted By: Trinity45
Date Posted: 30 Aug 2023 at 9:37am
| Can't hurt I will give it a try. |
Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 30 Aug 2023 at 10:28am
|
Oh yes it can hurt. Point files should never be used! The problem with them is they remove the Cadmium plating that's on the contacts to keep corrosion down. When you file the contacts, you start to remove the protective Cadmium plating and corrosion immediately starts. As time progresses, along with constant weather changes, (and filing) before you know it, you just caused your own problem all over again, but faster. The best way to remove the cosmelene off the contacts is either TV tuner cleaner or Brakekleen. A little spritz, pull a rag through em' and they're nice n' clean and ready for service. (providing they're not Chinese points) The old dollar bill or brown paper bag trick worked great. Points should be set at .020, In some cases, if an electronic ignition is used in lieu of the points and condenser, the plug gap can be widened a fuzz for a little better spark performance... I believe some of our customer's set the plug gap at .040. HTH Steve@B&B
------------- 39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife |
Posted By: Macon Rounds
Date Posted: 31 Aug 2023 at 9:57pm
|
GOOD advice Steve !!!! We are loosing that tribal knowledge as you have shared. I use electronic ignition on most of my in service equipment but still have many with points. Most of them SIT and corrode. As you suggested. DO NOT use a File !!! ------------- The Allis "D" Series Tractors, Gravely Walk behind Tractors, Cowboy Action Shooting !!!!!!! And Checkmate |
Posted By: ACinSC
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2023 at 6:45am
|
Never had or used a point file My question is why do they make/sell such a thing? Thanks |
Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2023 at 7:37am
Well, I'll be the contrarian here  Back in my VW Bug days I ran two sets of breaker points for over 100,000 documented miles; at tuneup time I removed one set and swapped in the other set, then I honed the first set using a little diamond hone (the pocket kind made for knife sharpening) and set it aside for the next tuneup. I never replace a condenser unless it fails. This was all recorded in my little log book that I kept in the jockey box. I still have several log books and also my last Bug that is on my long list awaiting restoration (after my late Father-in-law's WD tractor). This only works on quality points that have enough material to actually have anything left after filing. Most new points nowadays just have a thin coating that simply disappears when filed. Filing points was standard practice for many decades before our throw-away society got too lazy to pay attention and actually put the effort into making quality products and then maintain them properly. There is absolutely nothing wrong with filing quality points, but good luck finding a decent point file; this is why I switched to using the diamond hone. |
Posted By: ACinSC
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2023 at 8:11am
| Thanks Les,that makes sense. |
Posted By: wjohn
Date Posted: 01 Sep 2023 at 8:55am
|
If cleaning doesn't do it, check the ignition timing now that you have the new stuff on there set to the right specs. I've run into a couple of tractors where the timing had apparently been pretty far out, and replacing ignition components (bringing points gap back to spec, putting on a new rotor that has no play on the shaft, etc.) seemed to have altered the timing just enough that it became really obvious that something was off. Last one I did was a Farmall Super C that turns out was firing at 55 degrees before TDC after I replaced all ignition parts. Spec was supposed to be 30 degrees. I'd guess it may have been running at 45-50 degrees for years with the old worn out stuff. Ran much better after I corrected the timing, with the new parts. ------------- 1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45 |