Anyhow, when I opened my toolbox that says "1156 and 1157 Bulbs", I had several unopened boxes and a bunch of loose bulbs; several of the new but unpackaged bulbs have T1016 branded on the shank.

These T1016 look identical to a 1157 and will fit in the 1157 socket.

As my problem turned out not to require a bulb, I didn't test the light with one of these T1016.

I got curious and did a search for the T1016, to see how they compare with 1157 and whether they are compatible and this is where it gets weird --- I mean I have handfuls of these T1016 bulbs, most definitely a swap meet purchase --- the first few pages that came up in my T1016 bulb search are talking about writing Python Code and such and things way over my head and they ARE talking about these T1016 bulbs; they also make much mention of T1012 and T1015.

I never saw any mention of voltage nor Amp draw, nor compatibility with 1157; in fact, vehicle lighting was never mentioned in the several articles I skimmed through.

What have I got and what/where can I use them ?

Are they interchangable with 1157 and what are the tradeoffs by using them as such.

Thanks.

yeesh I can't FIND T1016 lamps.....

must be the 2nd monday this week !

Google found LED / Python hits though...

do the ones you have look like 1157 ? real light bulb with wire or are they LED

what stumps me is WHY Google can't find them.....sigh

time for another coffee....or 2 or 3 or ....

only 2 more...

 drop the T..google 1016...

http://www.classicautobulbs.com/automotive-light-bulbs/antique-vintage/1157-bay15d-27w-xenon-12v.htm" rel="nofollow - http://www.classicautobulbs.com/automotive-light-bulbs/antique-vintage/1157-bay15d-27w-xenon-12v.htm

so they 'should' be the same...

I suspect the 't' is the mfr's addon to the 'generic' 1016...

For the most part they are the same. 1016 is an older bulb series where the 1157 largely replaced it being brighter in both the low, and high intensity:

1016: 21/6 candle power in both intensities

1157: 26.9/8.3 candle power in both intensities

Both are from the original "Mazda" numbering system which was standardized upon after WWII as the style originated in Japan.

Thanks; I never would have thought to drop the T.

Now, I know they really do exist as 1016 and that gives me something to work with in finding out how different they are.

I also have a bunch of GE 2-pks (blister packs) of 2057 and checking with some bulb expert guy's site revealed that, although they are an exact fit for the 1157, they draw 1/3-less current and are therefore also not hardly so bright.

Now I wish I had bookmarked that site.

Thanks again.

THANKS !

You were typing while I was typing.

Now I don't have to re-find the bulb guy's site.

On a side note .... if you guys are not hitting the auto club swap meets, you are missing opportunity for oodles of big-time bargains.

Swap meets have so spoiled me that I hesitate to shop anywhere else.

I have became hard-core about it and take a big customized shopping cart to the indoor meets and a customized rubber-tired wagon to the huge outdoor events and will return to the truck several times to empty my hauling device and go back for more.

I can take a hunnert-dollar-bill and come home with $2,000 worth of goodies.

 The primary filament is used for normal marker-lamp (the rear light that comes on when you turn on your headlights) operation. The 1157 lamp can sustain 2.10 amps at 12.8 volts, and will last an average of 1,200 hours. The 1034 lamp can handle 1.80 amps at this voltage, and will last an average of 200 hours.

The secondary filament is used for turn signal operations. The 1157 lamp can sustain 590 milliamps of electrical current at 14 volts, and lasts an average of 3,000 hours. The 1034 lamp lasts an average of 5,000 hours under these conditions. 

Thanks for both these useful posts.

It is funny that even the old time parts counter guys don't know any of this stuff; no matter what bulb number is best for your situation, you will leave there with 1157 "Same thing; no difference"

I have studied both closely and I cannot see what he is meaning.

Well his 'link' isn't working for me but  both 1157 and 2057 are 3 wire bulbs. He might have confused 1157 with the 1156 which 56 IS a 2 wire bulb.....

For longest life, LEDs are better, though if you have 30-40  1157s why buy them.....

I cured the flasher problem years ago before LEDs were available.

I have the genuine Peterson non-cancelling signal switch - wired direct instead of through the key-switch; the Peterson is same model number and identical in every way to the Signal Stat of the same vintage.

Replacing the pitiful stock turn signal switch and all it's aggravating shortcomings with this big no-nonsense unit is probably one of my favorite of countless modifications.

I took a - as it turns out - brand new plastic toolbox and made it the "brain center" for my turn signal wiring.

The flasher does not flash the many many bulbs; but, instead, the cold side of the flasher wiring triggers a bank of relays that, in turn, send juice to the bulbs.

I could have gotten away with a single relay; however, I figured several of them working in tandem would serve two purposes = one being dividing the current by however many relays are switching; and, two being the relays can fail one by one until the last one gives it up, at which point I will replace them all.

Flashers live forever when the only draw they have is triggering the relays.

And, by using multiple relays, the "arc" is lessened proportionately, making them live much longer as well.

It has been many years since I wired this up and I haven't had the box open since.

Also within the box is all the spare parts I might need to make a repair beside the road.

Plus, I have the COOL! factor of the very loud and noticeable CLICK ker-Plunk CLICK ker-Plunk of the relays coming from within the toolbox hidden beneath the goose-neck trapdoor.

I often park with the engine running and a signal still ON and passersby will sure take notice.