D-10 series III
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=195090
Printed Date: 01 Sep 2025 at 6:53pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: D-10 series III
Posted By: Dusty MI
Subject: D-10 series III
Date Posted: 11 May 2023 at 11:56am
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The front axel on my D-10 series III is set all the way in, I want to widen it out one spot. I had a hard time getting the nuts off the bolts, used an air chisel to get the nuts off the bolts, then air hammer and penetrate fluid to get the bolts out. Now the axel will not move/slide. Any good ideas on how to get it to move? Thanks, Dusty ------------- 917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express" |
Replies:
Posted By: JoeM(GA)
Date Posted: 11 May 2023 at 12:48pm
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you might put nuts back on a bit loose, and CAREFULLY drive it around the yard, or some very generous walks with a deadblow hammer to jar things a bit. Rust and friction are amazing ------------- Allis Express North Georgia 41 WC,48 UC Cane,7-G's, Ford 345C TLB |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 11 May 2023 at 1:41pm
| Leave the bolts out. Start cutting lots of hard circles at high speed. The rougher the better. Not for the faint of heart. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 11 May 2023 at 1:54pm
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2 come-alongs... 2 trees ? ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 11 May 2023 at 4:47pm
A come along is most likely too weak. I've had some stuck front axles that took a large ratchet chain binder and lots of torch to get it apart. I've got a D10 with a front axle stuck out 2 holes and I've been using it for 2 years with 3/8' bolts with big washers and lock nuts in place of the 9/16" and with Kriol every time I use it and it hasn't moved a bit. ------------- If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere. Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY |
steve(ill) wrote:Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 11 May 2023 at 4:53pm
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well a 2 ton come-along would put a lot more side force on the tube then driving around in a circle all day.......... Pull TIGHT, then smack the tube with a sledge... as you said, penatrant is a good idea. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: Dusty MI
Date Posted: 11 May 2023 at 5:05pm
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The 4 bolts, 2 each side, are 3x5/8".
And they look like that at one time they were run loose. They were extremely tight. I had to use my pneumatic chisel on the nuts, to get them loose ------------- 917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express" |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 11 May 2023 at 6:04pm
| Well, for those that want to use a torch and sledgehammer first, ruining the paint job, good luck !! Spending some quality time bouncing it around and turning circles with the bolts removed is at least an ATTEMPT that will show no damage and just may loosen it up so it can be moved !!! |
Posted By: Tracy Martin TN
Date Posted: 11 May 2023 at 6:22pm
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The best way I have found is spreader wedges. I made a set of wedges that fit into the groove across the axel tube. When you tighten a bolt thru the wedges, they pivot over a 3/8 pin. It then tries to spread or open the open side of tube. Way more steady force than anything else . I leave bolts in one side and use that to push out opposite side axle. Then repeat with other side. Now there will still be rust, dirt and crude in it, but it will move. Clean the tube out good and the axle knees. Works like a champ. I can text a pic of one if I can remember to take a pic.HTH Tracy ------------- No greater gift than healthy grandkids! |
Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 11 May 2023 at 6:52pm
That's just what I've been doing on one of my D10s, I've been riding around for over 2 years with smaller bolts in the holes just to keep things somewhat together if anything were to budge. So far...ZILCH. Getting it hot from a torch it the only way it is going to move. I've also had a set of hubs on a MM U that need to come off and a 20 ton jack has yet to move them with the axle clamps loose. Some thing just must have HEAT to make them move. Good luck riding around to loosen yours, if it works great, but I wouldn't lay a bet on it doing anything. ------------- If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere. Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY |
Posted By: plummerscarin
Date Posted: 11 May 2023 at 8:28pm
| On my WD project it took a 10 ton porta power and a sledge hammer to get them moving |
Posted By: snowman(MI)
Date Posted: 11 May 2023 at 8:55pm
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My trick was using a 1/4" hex head bolt and nut like a small jack to fit inside the top slot and with wrenches apply pressure by backing the nut off. You don't get much but it is something with out wedges and you can put 4-5 of these along the top slot on one side. With pressure, soak that top slot with PB blaster. After a time of soaking and the pressure on the slot of trying to spread that formed tube, I used a sledge hammer persuasion on the inside of the spindle tube to get things moving. Not a fun project by any means, about as much fun as WD/WD-45 brake band pins when they are stuck. Don't be surprised if you have the same kind of fun with the tie rod linkage as well. The force be with you on this challenge. ------------- 1950 WD, 1966 D-10 III, 1961 D-10 II, 1966 D-15 II Gas, A-C Minibike, 917 Hydro Mower, 917 Hydro Blower w/cab, West Michigan "Allis Express" |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 11 May 2023 at 9:55pm
| If 1/4" bolt/nut fits, use grade 8 NFine for the most leverage. |
Posted By: HudCo
Date Posted: 11 May 2023 at 10:58pm
| i have used wedges under neath the side of the axle and and porta power ram the part i have the most troble with is the tie rod ends |
Posted By: JoeO(CMO)
Date Posted: 12 May 2023 at 4:35pm
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I had the same problem when I started on my D10III, the paint wasn't good, the was an alignment problem, the spindles were going to the rear and the tie rod was rubbing the oil pan. I could not get the sides out so I removed the front axle, installed bushing, and used a stump burning torch to heat the entire center section. With some BFH blows the sides were loose, so I proceeded to work on other areas to make ready to receive color.
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