Help with welder purchase
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Topic: Help with welder purchase
Posted By: caRon
Subject: Help with welder purchase
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2010 at 5:58pm
I've come to the conlcusion that I need to break down and purchase my own welder for my ongoing AC tractor projects. With my limited welding experience and not really wanting to spend thousands on a set up, it seems a mig, with it's wide range application would be the direction I should go. I've been looking at the Hobart welders at the Rural King. I've heard they are nice welders for the money. Looking for advice, tips, any and all comments appreciated. Thanks Ron
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CA Tractor
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Replies:
Posted By: Rick of HopeIN
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2010 at 6:22pm
I have a Hobart 220V MIG but I bought it mostly to weld up a dune buggy frame, light tubing. It is easy to use but to get a good weld the steel has to be pristine clean and no wind. For a farm welder I always wanted a AC/DC stick, probably more versatile. When I was growing up we made due with AC buzz box for everything.
Wish I was better with TIG and brazing all that stuff but never worked at it enough.
Oh forget flux core wire. My welder came with a spool of it, I used it for about 15 minutes and thought it was a crappy sub for a stick welder. Got a tank of weld gas and have been fine since. Big 220V MIGs do some serious welding but my small one is not in that class, I think it is the model they call a 185 and does respectable job to 1/4" but demands a good prep. Much more it is hard to get enough heat into it. Mine only draws 20amp max at the wall so you have limited power even for a 220V compared to a stick welder.
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1951 B, 1937 WC, 1957 D14, -- Thanks and God Bless
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Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2010 at 6:24pm
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I've had a 225Amp AC only 'stick ' welder for the past 24 years.Only use 7018AC rods.Fixed or made everything from lawn tractor decks to very heavy duty trailers. It was the best $200 I ever spent.I've heard MIG is great for thin tin, 'sticks' better for 'real steel'.Then there's the flux cored wire or bottled gas MIG decision. My guess it depends upon how much you want to spend for a machine that will do your types of jobs.
I'd like to have a small fc MIG for the thin tin jobs but have used 'the beast' with small sticks and low amps to do thintin work.
Just some ideas for you.
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2010 at 6:26pm
I would recommend getting a 220V machine. I have a 120V machine and it's fine for sheet metal work. For the bigger stuff, I either have to preheat the metal with a torch or break out the old stick machine. I'd stay away from the flux core type machines. You'll never be happy with the results.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Posted By: BennyLumpkin
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2010 at 6:31pm
go 220...for easiness of running get a miller 185, 210...will weld most anything, and easy to set up....set your top and bottom dials about the same way and you're pretty close....start welding....I have a 185, it was replaced with the 210. Hobart builds a nice machine as well. Miller, Lincoln and Hobart and ESAB are the best of the best.....
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Central PA Allis Express
1934 WC254
1945 WF
1945 WC135755
1951 WD68085
1953 WD45-150217
1957 WD45D-230744D
B110
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Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2010 at 6:44pm
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Like any tool , buy the best you think you can afford then spend a few $100 more to get the next couple steps up , only thing with a welder it can be a lifetime investment so buy more than you think you need.
A machine that is AC only will work for most things but is limited using 6013,6011, and some 7016 or 7018 AC rod., Buy something that is 220 V. If you want to go to the next step then a AC / DC machine is next in line. Will weld with 6010P , and all 7018 rod.
Most good welders that are in the price range are now Inverter Welders with a rectified high frequency unit then diodes to change to straight or reverse polarity. This also gives you infinate output control, the old front tap machines with pre-set plug in or dial set by transformer taps are out now as good machines to buy.
Wire feed welders with the capacity to also SMAW weld would be my choice , and something to run minimum of .035 wire E70S grade. Wire feed does not work well on rust or non clean metal , thickness of base metal should not be problem as weld area is ground to make multiple pass welds. Using Argon/CO2 shield gas and be sure welding gun is rated at over or at same maximum amps as machine highest output.
Next would be a machine that will TIG weld also along with the SMAW, and GMAW welding, now you are into some money but well worth buying all you can now rather than updating later.
Get a Speedglass welding helmet (3M product), self darkening as it is well worth having, get a good one with the variable shading and the delay cycle.
I have a Miller AC 180A unit i bought in the 60's, a 80's Pow Con 250A Inverter that will SMAW, GMAW and TIG, as well as straight or reverse polarity.. latest is a 2000's, Miller 304 with all the same features but built in high frequency , foot control on TIG, water cooled torch, and more bells and whistles then I have used so far but welding with it is a breeze.
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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2010 at 6:48pm
I have an old Forney AC welder and I would like to see somebody weld with it using 7018. I have never been able to use it. 6011 or 6013 is all I use for the "farm" repair work. I have a ton of it that was thrown out at work years ago so I'm set for life for rod. My SIL is a Boiler Maker and he thought I needed some 7018 rod so he brought some home for me. I told him it won't work and he proceeded to "show me how" to use it. He couldn't believe it wouldn't work. He couldn't do it either.
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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2010 at 6:57pm
Chuck get the 7018 AC rod, it has a different flux and works either AC or DC and either polarity. I had a can of Lincon 7018 and could not run it on my 180A Miller , then bought some ESAB 7018AC and it ran fine, figured that Lincon rod was bad but when I got my Pow Con machine it worked with no problem.
I put a full wave bridge rectifier on my 180A Miller and then the Lincon rod would run on that also.
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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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Posted By: Doug northern IL
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2010 at 7:05pm
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Ive been welding for years with 7018 it all i use . Have a miller syncro wave 250. also a hobart 140 wire feed for light stuff.
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Posted By: Rogers
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2010 at 7:17pm
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I have a Century 220V MIG wire welder that I use all the time. I also have a 120V Century wire welder. I used flux core wire with the 120V welder, but I MIG weld with the 220V welder. The 120V model was not really big enough when it came to most projects. The 220V welder will go to 165 Amps and is rated for 1/4" in a single pass. With multiple passes on thicker metal it will weld all I need.
Most places seem to have gone from Century to Hobart. I have never had a Hobart welder, but I have used some Hobart wire. Hobart makes good stuff, but if you can stand the expense Miller is top of the line.
One thing I definitely think is worth your money is an auto darkening helment as mentioned by Coke. I went with a Kobalt helment from Lowes. It was not the cheapest one, but it is protecting your eyes. It was amoung the best money I ever spent.
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Think for yourself and be your own expert. Be willing to change your mind; however, willingness to change your mind doesn’t mean that you will. Blindly following any path is the pinnacle of insanity.
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Posted By: RickUP
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2010 at 7:23pm
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If stick welding is your choice, then get an AC/DC lincoln. If you plan to do some wirefeed also get a Lincoln that will do both. (220 volt). Now when it comes to rods, get Esab 7018. When buying wire you need to spend a little to get enough nickle content, it will pay off in the end. Cheap wire can be used for haywire repairs till you get sick of it. Lincoln can make welders, but their rods and wire suck. Good luck. This reply is aimed at mild iron type welding only. But with the right machine and a little training you can weld almost anything.
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Posted By: RichinWis
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2010 at 7:31pm
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Just for your information, Hobart welders are owned by Miller welders, probally thier cheaper line. Was told this by a Miller rep.
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Posted By: Clay in MI
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2010 at 7:53pm
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An acetylene torch set for brazing, heating, bending and cutting and a used 220V stick welder have handled all my farm welding needs. Stick welders seem to last forever and you can often find them barely used for very reasonable.
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Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2010 at 8:00pm
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I have a Miller 220v Millermatic 212 wire welder and love it but for the heavy or field work I have a Thermalarc Predator gas engine welder generator comparable to a Miller Bobcat, best investment I ever made as I can power the house off the generator or weld in field when a I really screw up!! Wire is for clean welding where prep can be extensive, the good old 7018 comes out for the down and dirty work.
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Posted By: klyant
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2010 at 8:04pm
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You want a 220v. I have a Miller 200 it works really good unless the wind is blowing. Wind blows the co2 away and then the welds cool to quickly.
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Posted By: Jamie (KY)
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2010 at 8:20pm
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Bought a Miller Thunderbolt 220V AC/DC stick welder about a year ago. I don't weld with it enough to be considered "good" but I am "good enough". LOL Gave a little over $600 for it and figured it will do all that I need. Usually us 6011's just for basic farm stuff. I'm definately not an expert, but that' what just about always used and seems to be working for me. I have a box of 7018 AC rods but not sure which I like best.
The biggest thing that has helped me is the auto darkening helmet. I bought it the same day as the welder but I got it at Harbor Freight. It was only about $50 so I wasn't going to loose much. It has blue flames on it but I don't care. Turned out to be a pretty good investment. Besides, it's worth a good laugh to see my dad wear that helmet. He never has struck me as the "blue flame" kind of guy! LOL
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Just when I thought I was finishing my "honey-do-list", she turned the page!!!
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Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2010 at 8:34pm
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i have a Miller thunder bolt 220 volt, 180 amp AC/DC stick welder also. VEry nice. THe 6010 rod is a deep penetration rod to burn into rusted or dirty metal. Flux looks pretty poor after welding. 7018 rod is a nice finish rod. Metal should be mostly clean to start with, littel rust, wire brush surface. With 7018 you should be able to tap on the flux after welding and it just falls off easy. Very pretty weld when done, if your a good welder. I gave up on the 180 amp AC lLincoln buzz box about 20 years ago.
I have a lincoln 135 amp, 110 volt wire feed with gas. I use it on hoods, fenders and sheetmetal. Works good for me. THe boy is not as experienced and i started him out with a 185 amp 220 v Miller wire feed with gas. HE can weld sheet metal up to 5/16 plate pretty easy. DOnt have to be an expert to make it look good with a little practice.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Posted By: bluebanshee
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2010 at 8:37pm
We have 3 welders. An old Lincoln Idealarc250 that we still use occasionally and still welds great. Have about 70 feet or more cable on it so we can weld nearly any size project and it doesn't have to be in the garage. With a small enough rod you can weld sheet metal but it doesn't look that great. Used about 10# of rod with it over the weekend, 6010 then 7018.
The mig is a Lincoln power mig 300 (310 amp) it will stick, tig scratch start and mig aluminum also with its 50ft python push pull gun. Lowest settings I can still mig car panels with 035. It gets used about half the time.
The tig is a Lincoln precision tig 175 (square wave). Its a little small for some of the stuff we do. It is a high frequency machine so there is no scratch starting. We changed it to a thumb control and it makes it much easier. With a tig you can weld nearly anything from pop cans, wheels, bolts, etc. Its slower but you have complete control over it. You can use just the torch without filler wire on some stuff. It takes time to learn how to tig well, especially aluminum but you can do so much more. Although it is much slower just like stick is compared to a mig. This machine also stick welds nice. If we only had one machine I think I would have to pick this one because it will weld the thinnest of metals and on stick can weld the thickest.
The speedglas auto darkening helmet is nice. It has a LARGE viewing area, much larger than many other helmets and is extremely lightweight.
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Posted By: bigallis1
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2010 at 9:20pm
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Ron, I would suggest getting a Mig 220 V welder.They are great for ease of use and all around welding. Spark's are more confined. I just picked up a Millermatic 180 w/auto-set. Got from a local welding school/shop where I took a mig class. I would also suggest taking a class in Mig welding, if nothing else, for safety and understanding the process. Good luck.
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Posted By: Allen Dilg
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2010 at 11:04pm
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35 yrs ago when I was looking for a mig welder the salesman told me that he could teach a person to weld with a mig welder in about 4 hours, compared to several weeks with a stick. Also it's about as easy as operating a caulk gur. Haven't had to use a stick welder in years. A welder is a lifetime investment, get a good one.
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Posted By: JohnCO
Date Posted: 13 Oct 2010 at 11:54pm
I have several welders, a century 180 ac/dc which I used for years then I got a little Lincoln 125 or 150, can't remember, 110volt wire feed. Very handy for patching things where only 110 volts are are available. Got a Miller 251 wire feed a few years ago (220 volt). It is so easy to use and makes even my welds look good. It is hard to use outside on windy days tho. I buy the 44 lb rolls of wire, much cheaper per foot then getting it in 10 lb rolls. I heard somewhere that Miller welders have copper coils and Hobart uses aluminum wire to keep the price down.
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"If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer"
Allis Express participant
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Posted By: KenBWisc
Date Posted: 14 Oct 2010 at 8:47am
I just bought a Miller 211 auto-set with gass. I like it a lot but am still challenged with burning trough 18-24 gauge material when butt welding. I need the class mentioned above!
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'34 WC #629, '49 G, '49 B, '49 WD, '62 D-19, '38 All Crop 60 and still hunting!
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Posted By: firebrick43
Date Posted: 14 Oct 2010 at 9:03am
Hell I can teach a stupid monkey to well mig in 4 hrs. Problem is that its the hardest to master, especially for thicker applications. A mig weld can look perfect and be little better than glue do to lousy penetration. I have not met a person yet that has always used a mig welder that welds well. They don't look at the puddle and understand penetration. There is a difference between making nice looking mig welds and good welds.
I always recommend an old miller dialarc or lincoln idealarc. They are either 250 or 300 amp dc industrial duty arc machines. They are bullet proof, I have never seen or heard of a failure(although I sure one or two out there have). The good thing is that you can buy them for dirt cheap used off of craigslist if you are patient and wait. Sometimes welding shops will know or sell used ones as well. Make sure its a single phase 220v machine and not a 3 phase 480 or something like that.
A dc machine is not necessary but is much nicer to use. Starts easier, smoother welds. In arc welding, if your welds look nice, chances are they are good. Unlike mig, porosity and bad penetration look bad, can cover it up, tells you, grind it out and fix it.
If you are buying new, get a miller thunderbolt in ac/dc. While the lincoln tombstones are durable welders, I don't care for their limited adjustability, although many use them with no issues.
If you are not going to listen, I will tell you about some mig welders. First get a 220 machine. 110v is only good for thin body work(might be good to have a 110 machine along with a stick welder for heavy work). Hobarts welders are identical in many models to the miller. In the smaller models, a few years ago at least. Some of the rolls and wire feed mechinism in some but not all of the hobarts were plastic vs steel/aluminum in the miller.
If you are an occasional user of mig welders, you only want small rolls of wire. Not using the wire consistently will surely result in rusty wire that you will have to throw out. If your garage has moisture, good luck almighty.
Welding rod should be kept taped up in the plastic tube until you need to use it. Get a tube with screw on cap that holds rod your currently using. 7018 especially. Old 7018, especially if its around for a while should be put in the oven at a few hundred degrees for a few hours to drive off the moisture, I do this if its especially wet out or the rod has been setting for several months, then it goes in my sealed tube. Rod ovens are nice but are a little salty and drive up the electricity bill, and are not necessary unless doing pipeline work.
Take a class at the local community school/some high schools. They will show you the proper way and you will get to cut up welds and test them to show you how mig can look so good and be so crappy.
I personally have a Miller syncrowave tig/stick machine. I use stick 90 percent of the time. The tig on medium thickness precision jobs, stainless, and aluminum. I paid about 1500 for it, but waited for a while for a good deal to come around. Very few people need its capability and I would have to say that its digital controls make it suceptable to expensive repairs down the line compared to an old stick welder like the dialarcs and idealarcs.
I still use an oxyfuel torch to weld chromemoly tubing, body panels, braze, and thin shaped aluminum sections.
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Posted By: Tracy Martin TN
Date Posted: 14 Oct 2010 at 3:24pm
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I have a nice Airco Tig welder with recirculating tank I would sell. It also has a spot weld attachment for sheet metal. Tracy Martin
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Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 14 Oct 2010 at 3:54pm
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Any welding is PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE, this is where the school comes in , learning to make a puddle. Vertical up or overhead is where the challenge comes in .
Butt welds need prep in v in metal to make good weld. SMAW is done in most palces where any air movement will effect the shield gas on MIG.
The Speedglass has a large view window which is reason I bought that, and like any good tool it needs proper care and handling . (don't be dropping or throwing it around.)
Most of the AC/DC machines now are inverter (step up transformer with frequency change) then brought to welding voltage and amp range.
My Pow Con was over $1500 back then and is similar to Thermoarc machine.
The Miller 304 complete was near/over $5000. Just wish I would have bought the spool gun but that was another $1000
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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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Posted By: DREAM
Date Posted: 14 Oct 2010 at 4:46pm
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Coke, i'm with you on the Miller 304. Awesome machine!
As for the beginers welders, I would advise going on and spending a little more on a better machine now, rather than having to turn around in a year and do it anyway.
If you want something for general welding of mild steel to moderate thickness, go with an AC/DC stick machine, 220 volts supply. The inverter machines that Coke mentions do work much nicer than the older ones. You should be able to pick up a pretty nice used one. JMO, but I would go blue(Miller). I have had a few bad experiences with component failures on Hobart and Lincoln machines.
If you want portability, go for a mid-range engine-welder. Miller Bobcat 225 or 250. I prefer the NT series over the G series. I also prefer the 250 over the 225. Much smoother machine.
A nice smaller engine welder is a Miller Bluestar 2E. I bought one for $200.00 last year. It welds much better than the Lincoln Ranger 8 that I just got rid of.
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I didn't do it! It was a short, fat, tall, skinny guy that looked like me!
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Posted By: j.w.freck
Date Posted: 14 Oct 2010 at 5:31pm
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i will have to go along with cokes summation of info.DONT TRY TO ECONOMIZE GET A GOOD ONE FROM THE GET GO.i have a 1450 hobart,a 140 hobart wire welder and a airforce 400 plasma cutter,like them all.was amazed at the way the 140 runs aliminum wire.the main thing welding alum.is to use a clean ALUMINUM brush to clean the base metal.no metal wire brush.getting the machine fine tuned for alum,can be somewhat nerve wracking but it does a good job of it.also i use a wire oiler in my wire machine.really helps.on my wire welder i keep a 50 watt light bulb in close proximity to the wire spool.keeps the rust off the wire
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Posted By: realolman
Date Posted: 14 Oct 2010 at 5:55pm
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I think any time you can afford it, get a Lincoln.
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Posted By: caRon
Date Posted: 14 Oct 2010 at 7:36pm
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Thanks all, for the advice. I may look into the stick welder a little more. I really don't need a high dollar professional set up with the limited use it will receive. General hobby farm/repair, minor fabrication, but want to be able to weld sheet and the big stuff. Can I get a mig that can do everything, say a Lincoln ac/dc 225 can do for under a grand? Tracy, I think with my limited experience a tig would be way out of my league. what would you be asking for that set up? Thanks, Ron
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CA Tractor
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Posted By: Chalmersbob
Date Posted: 14 Oct 2010 at 7:44pm
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I have a Hobart 125. I have welded anything that I ever needed to have welded on the farm. Plow lift couplings for my 2 bottom roll-over plow. Ramps for a trailer to haul a JD 450. etc. I don't use gas, just wire. Bob
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Posted By: Rick of HopeIN
Date Posted: 14 Oct 2010 at 7:56pm
The homeowners wire welders like Hobart 180 I have are not very versatile compared to a small AC/DC stick welder in my opinion. For projects in the shop where you have good joint prep they save some time, you can lay a lot of weld down pretty quick.
One advantage for me was I only needed a small circuit 20 amp, 220V to my garage and I was in business. But like they say if you are welding very heavy you will need to be careful to get enough penetration, MIG has a bad tendency to just lay a bead on top for some reason.
I find the big tip of a MIG welder annoying too in tight spots and the wire feeder cable is never long enough.
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1951 B, 1937 WC, 1957 D14, -- Thanks and God Bless
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Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 14 Oct 2010 at 8:09pm
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Thats one reason I went with the Pow-Con, the wire feed unit is separate from welder. I use jumper cables and can move wire feed unit 20 ft from welder , so like welding on top of dump box or top of equipment can just set the feeder up in bed or close to work.
Rather than flux core wire if your looking to economies then use straight CO2 instead or Argon/CO2 mixed gas, more penetration but more spatter. Why use wire that smokes like stick if your going to wire feed.
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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
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Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 15 Oct 2010 at 8:54am
Hi Ron!
There's lots of good suggestions here. A few things to keep in mind:
--When setting up a stick welder, you have to select the proper electrode (rod) type and size for the workpiece. Electrodes come in a myriad of alloys, with an equal myriad of flux coatings (the stuff on the outside of the rod) to create the best result not only to match the metals being welded, but also the position which you'll be welding. A horizontal-position weld (looking down on two pieces of flat plate, for example), is easy to weld with just about any rod, but an OVERHEAD position (lying on your back, under a cracked frame) is a totally different rod.
NEXT, you have to set up the welder's heat range and polarity to match the rod type and size. The BOX (or can) that the rods come in, will identify electrode polarity (positive, negative, or AC), as well as what current level. Too little heat, and the rod will not 'hold' a proper arc, as the flux coating will not burn off (and outgas) at a rate that will yield proper shielding. Too much heat, and the flux will burn off too fast, and leave the weld unshielded. Finally, a rod with moisture IN the flux, will not burn properly because the flux will 'break off' and not burn/outgas at all.
An experienced welder's technique, is to totally analyze the weld situation prior to even putting on leathers, and when starting, will already have chosen the proper position, electrode type, set the heat ranges, and established a proper ground
A wire-feed welding operation is no different- you have different alloys of wire, and different fluxes. MIG is commonly used to describe all wire-feeding, but there are many types, the two common being gasless (flux-core) and bottle-gas shielding. The shielding concept does what a stick welder's flux does- it displaces oxygen and other gases from the weld area to prevent contamination of the weld. One of the benefits of wire-feed welding, is that there is no real need to be concerned with position, because the shielding gasses will flood effectively in essentially any position, and furthermore, heat range is widely adjustable to suit many applications, without even changing wire. Note that many WILL discount the concept of flux-core wiring, do NOT write it off as an invalid method- flux-core welding is an incredibly effective relative of the submerged-arc welding process, every bit as good as gas-bottle... just happens that most people having problems with flux-core don't read the instructions, so they don't set the electrode polarity correctly.
If you want a really, really good deal, here's what you do:
Set up your shop with a 240v/50A outlet... a dryer plug. I own a Hobart Handler 120v 80A welder that I have fitted with flux-core wire for those tasks when I need something quick and dirty, in a place where I can't get a big welder to go... but at 120v, the little welder is darned near out-of-breath for anything larger than 3/16" or tacking a couple pieces of larger steel. I DO use it for tacking together special stuff (like a hydraulic pump bracket that needs to be assembled and fitted in-situ, then tacked, then removed for finish welding), but realize that the downside of tiny portable welders, aside from limited power, is severely limited duty-cycle... you need to make short welds, and allow LOTS of cooling time (for the machine) between welds. The other achilles' heel, is that these little portables, at 120v, DO NOT work worth a hoot with ANY sort of common extension cord. They'll use every bit of a 120v/20A electrical circuit (that's 2400w), and any resistance to the power supply feeder will dim that arc to worthlessness. A 240V unit will have twice the power available (4800w), but still, the small cord is a limiter. FWIW- Many guys cuss and dump their little portables after being dissatisfied... you can oftentimes find a good used one, for cheap, because the guy wasn't bright enough to hook it to a good power source, with a short cord... OR, they didn't set up the electrode polarity correctly for their flux-core wire.
But if you want the REAL DEAL, for a price that totally obliterates everything else you see on 'the market'... find a well-used popular brand/model of true industrial 3-phase welder- like the Miller CP-200 MIG, or the SRH-333 DC stick/TIG. They were made in large quantities, and are plentiful at auctions... with They sell for low prices on account of most guys not having 480v/230v 3-phase power. Convert it to 240V single phase. These old industrial welders are incredible workhorses- powerful beyond the wildest dreams of most garage guys... and considering that they can be had for under $200, converted for under e$100, parts are plentiful and cheap, they last forever (in garage duty) and have no problems running at 100% duty cycle. There is absolutely NO reason why a guy should ever consider buying a new welder.
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Posted By: JohnCO
Date Posted: 16 Oct 2010 at 12:08am
Re my advice on buying a 44 lb roll. Remember I live in dry Colorado, where things don't rust so fast. I go through a roll every 6 or 8 months. I guess where there is humidity, it wouldn't be as good an idea.
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"If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer"
Allis Express participant
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Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 16 Oct 2010 at 12:43pm
I agree with the big spool recommendation- if your spool has time to corrode, it'll foul the feeder and liner, and cause poor contact at the tip, hence, welding performance will tank. Either keep the smallest spools that make sense, or keep the shop humidity low.
FWIW- one of the best things a guy can do for his shop, is recycle a broken-down refrigerator, preferably the old 'dangerous' 1950's era units with latching handle. Put that fridge in a convenient spot, and put your welding electrodes, wire, and liners in it. In really damp conditions, put a 15w light bulb in the socket, and wire it through a timer to kick on for about 20 minutes a day. The fridge's seal will turn it into a nice dry storage cabinet, and your supplies will always be ready.
It also saves the landfill of one otherwise perfectly-good fridge.
Oh- and if anyone wants to know how to convert an industrial three-phase to single:
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/transformers-phase-converters-vfd/miller-cp200-converted-240v-single-phase-199832/
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