With the good weather over the weekend, I started doing all kinds of tractor stuff.  I decided to fire up my 7010 and do some chores.  The steering has become quite difficult.  I looking for guidance on debugging the issue. 

The steering was fine when I parked it this past fall from what I remember so this is a mystery why sitting for several months would create this issue.  I see Hydraulic fluid in the lower site glass on the back so it has fluid.  It was almost 55 degrees so it wasn't that cold.  I also worked it for about 30 minutes.

Looking at the parts diagram, I have the Orbitrol, the hydraulic pump and the cylinder as culprits.  I was able to lift my 3pt disc mower without issue and use the valves to hydraulically raise and lower the mower arm, so I conclude that my hydraulic pump is not the issue but could it be weak?  I have to rev the engine all the way up though to get it to steer which might indicate a weak pump.  I did not have to reve the engine to get the valve and rear lift to work.  The wheels sometimes did not want to turn left or right, so it was hard to steer into intended direction.  I did hear some squelching as I tried to turn the wheel sometimes. 

At this stage, it would not be safe in road gear or maybe any gear for that matter.  I know that my 190XT had the orbitrol replaced at one point before my ownership but I do not know the symptoms of a bad orbitrol.

I haven't changed the hydraulic filter yet this upcoming season and was going to do that as a first step.  I would think a blocked hydro pump though would cause the valves to not work nor would it pickup the mower.

Any ideas greatly appreciated!

I also just realized there may be 2 pumps on the 7010.  If so, that is why rear lift works. 

There is a plug on top and bottom - just remember how the spool, orfice, shims  and spring comes out.  

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tbran, thank you for getting me going in a direction.  After original posting, I looked closer at the situation and realized that the middle part of the pump handled the steering, hence the name "dual" pump.  This is the most likely cause based upon it's behavior.

I looked at the parts diagram and I see the two plugs top and bottom and the various parts used.  It also shows the order for the various parts.  I need a clarification though.  If I take it apart, don't I need new parts?  Or are you saying that by taking it apart and putting it back together, it will become unstuck?  Can I get the parts?  I assume you have to take both plugs out on the top and bottom to get the parts out?  Is there any trick to get the parts out if they are stuck.  Can I leave it on the tractor or does it need to be de-installed.  Sorry for all of the questions but this is new territory for me.

OK.  This has become much clearer in what I have to do so thanks Mack and everyone else. 

Here are remaining questions from me before I start.  Is it best to leave the pump on the tractor?  Do I need to be ready for parts to drop out of the bottom when I remove the plug or can I take them out one at a time?  Do I get a rush of hydraulic oil once the plug is removed pushing parts out at the same time?  Once everything is removed, do I need to pump air into it to clean out foreign material or something else?  Does this process create an air pocket that needs to be cleared? 

When I get the spool out, I may have some further questions on polishing.  I have to finish my 500 loader cylinder rebuilds before I tackle this so it may be a few weeks before I can report back unless I prioritize this first.

victoryallis wrote: To polish mine I took a 3/8 or 1/2 wood dowel about 8 inches long and cut a slot in one end about as deep as a ribbon of Emory cloth is wide. Fed the Emory cloth threw the slot and put it in a drill and polished the barrel.

Nice tip.  So you were polishing only the inside of the barrel and not the outside of the barrel? 

Lynn Marshall wrote: Leave the pump on the tractor. No need to remove the top cap. The orifice disc with the small hole can get restricted and cause problems. The spool should slide in and out of the bore easily. Polish both surfaces the best you can and flush the bore before reassembly. You may have to devise something to pull the spool out if it is stuck. I would also be checking the left hand filter and screen to be sure that they're good.

Thanks Lynn for that detailed explanation.  It sounds like my problem should be obvious once I disassemble.  I might tackle it this weekend since it may not take that much time to do.  I will report back my findings.

I think there is a bit of leak on the cylinder and I am getting ready to do my 500 loader cylinders myself so I might be warmed up to do that cylinder too.   I bet it comes apart differently though since it is a bit more modern.

I would like to do one at a time though to see what my issue really is.

I am anticipating finding two things: either a clogged washer or a stuck spool.  We will see when I dig into it.

Thanks guys for the input!

MACK wrote: I use a big easyout to get spool out if it is stuck.                  MACK

I was thinking I could take the top cap off and use a punch to drive it out of the bottom if it was stuck but your idea is a little less obtrusive.

This all has me wondering why does the spool get stuck?  Are parts disintegrating that causes a build up?  Do I need to change the hydraulic filter more often?  Do I need to get an Agco filter as it might be better?

plummerscarin wrote: A change to a AGCO filter fixed my steering issues on the 7040

After I get done fixing this, I think I will get an Agco filter as a safety precaution.

Here are pictures in case anyone can shed some light on what I am seeing now.  Any insight is appreciated:

After spool is out:

Parts that came out so far plus the disk orifice.  I found it in the pan later:

Here is the parts diagram. and the parts I haven't found yet but may still be in there.

I felt like I needed to add more clarity and identify if this is a shim or a disk orifice.  It fits perfectly inside the spool so I think it is a disk orifice.  That means I am missing shim and washer potentially.  I can call Agco and see if they have these parts.  Not sure about availability though.

Here it is:

Lynn Marshall wrote: I think that you have everything. Reassemble it like my picture from earlier shows. Short side of spool up and long side down. Orifice disc goes in the long side followed by the spring. Then the cap and nut. I think that your shims are still stuck in the cap, I can see the hole in the shim stack.

Lynn, you were right.  A single washer was in the cap.  No shims though as in your picture. I reassembled, long side down and put it all back and tractor steers just great now!  While I didn't see anything in the orifice when it dropped out into the bucket, it might have been in there.  I think the blockage has been there for awhile because I think in the fall it got a little harder to steer but not like it got after sitting over the winter.

Regardless, it is nice to have a fix and buy no parts!  Thanks for everyone's assistance and help.  Now, I have to get that skid plate back on.

I don't think there is any harm in putting it back together and see if the steering is better or good enough to avoid a replacement pump for awhile.  If you put the spool back in and you can't push it up and down without much resistance, you still have something wrong.  It slid up and down easy for me.  I wish you luck and hope you don't have to replace it.

CrestonM wrote: I checked today and the orifice disc is not accounted for. Anyone have one to part with?

Curious if you ever found an orifice?