Help me decide if I should build a frankentractor
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Category: Other Topics
Forum Name: Pulling Forum
Forum Description: Forum dedicated to Tractor and Garden Pulling
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=193486
Printed Date: 23 Nov 2024 at 5:59am
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Topic: Help me decide if I should build a frankentractor
Posted By: blue924.9
Subject: Help me decide if I should build a frankentractor
Date Posted: 13 Feb 2023 at 3:21pm
Hello men, currently have a wd with a 45 crank and 4.125 overbore kit in it. Does pretty good for our small time outfit but as always I’m looking for more lol. In my research it seems that a d17 block offers better oiling and a stronger block overall. This tractor also has the straight stick transmission in it. Also in my reading it seems the curved shifter transmission in the late wd or 45s are stronger. I would like to put a stroker crank in this tractor. Talking with Dan carpel it seems 5.5 inch crank is doable with his billet rods being used.
My question is will the block hold up long term with the crank in it, is there any supporting modifications that can be made to the w201 block I currently have or is it better off with the g226 of a d17? Also would it be worth it to wd45 swap the rear section of the tractor for the stronger unit with slightly slower gearing.
Tractor currently runs in a 2.5 mph class close to home with 3.0 mph being the speed of some pulls we travel to. I can run in a 5mph class close to home but I have nowhere near enough power to do that currently. The d17 engine is an approved repower for the clubs I run
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hi my names dan, I am a young guy. i have a problem, i prefer my tractors orange and my clutches mechanical, thanks for letting me share
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Replies:
Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 13 Feb 2023 at 7:05pm
It's only money... Go for it. Once you add power you'll quickly find out what comes next.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 14 Feb 2023 at 6:01am
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You are using low gear now, which is 2.5 MPH. Changing to a WD45 trans/rear end will slow down low gear to 2.3 MPH. Nothing positive about that. The stock D-17 engine with M-code compression only makes 5 more HP @ 1400 RPM over a STOCK WD45 engine, because of an increase in compression. If you currently have 4 1/8" pistons that have 140 or more PSI cranking compression, you won't have ANY more HP @ 1400 RPM from a stock D-17 engine, probably less !!!! Exactly how much compression you have now has to be matched (and same bore) in a D-17 engine to have the exact same HP at the same 1400 rated load RPM's. So, to go forward with any changes you must determine what compression you currently have in your WD45 power plant. I'm not sure of your goals. I belong to a club that has "stock" classes, in which there are several WD45's that pull in low gear with 13.6 x 38 non cut rear tires and are quite dominant. They run 4,000-4,500 and sometimes 5,000 lbs BUT, their drawbar rules are 16 inches high and 14 inches longer than the end of the PTO shaft. That is a "stock" dimension drawbar. The same club has "Antique" classes with a 4MPH speed limit and the typical 20 inch tall x 18 inch short drawbar. I can tell you that 4500 and 5000 lbs with cut 15.5 x 38's require 100 or more HP to be really competitive and be able to run 2nd gear with a WD45 DIESEL rear end, which is a 15% slower ring and pinion.
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Posted By: HudCo
Date Posted: 14 Feb 2023 at 11:13pm
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is that 2.5 mph @ 1400 rpm with the 13.6 x 38 tires ? and what about 18.4x 34
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 15 Feb 2023 at 6:07am
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The 2.5 and 2.3 MPH rating are with standard sized tires 13.6 x 28's at 1400 RPM's. .. 2.5 MPH turns into 3.3 MPH with 18.4 x 34's. 2.3 MPH becomes 3.0 MPH with 18.4 x 34's both at 1400 RPM. So, going to an 18.4 x 34 is about a 30% speed increase, let alone a traction increase, which requires more torque from the engine to spin her out.
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 15 Feb 2023 at 6:59pm
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Just a couple of thoughts when pulling a WD or WD-45 tractor when it comes to gearing and HP requirements. I had a WD-45 (40 years ago) that had 4 1/8" pistons that were 11 to 1 compression ratio or thereabouts (240 psi cranking pressure) with a 175 camshaft grind and a Marvel Schebler carb with a 1 inch plastic venturi. That stock stroke 240 cubic inch tractor would dyno at 75 HP @ 2,000 RPM. Rear tires were cut 13.6 x 38's. We ran 3500-4000-4500 antique classes with a 20 inch high x 18 inch short drawbar. That tractor was always able to run low gear without question, sometimes even in a 5000 lb class. Now, to run second gear ???? Well, second gear with 38 inch rubber is almost an impossibility in 4500 lbs unless you are 300 cubes or more. Using a WD-45 diesel rear end is of real benefit, as it is a 15% gear reduction. 400 cubes will allow you to run as heavy as 5500 lbs with 15.5 x 38's and never have a power issue. One must have a goal or a plan when building a puller. A-C's didn't have 5 or 6 speeds. They only had 4, with second gear being quite fast when you install 38 inch rubber. Low gear pulling is pretty easy and inexpensive. Second gear requires much bigger cocoa nuts under the hood, and cocoa nuts cost $$$$$$.
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Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 15 Feb 2023 at 7:20pm
Find a shorter wider set of tires that you DO have the power for. TALL tires DO NEED big power. Find the perfect match tire for whatever gear you can run and you'll do better than someone with tall tires without the power to turn them.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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