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Thanks for the insights. You have three of these? Wow. If I understand you correctly, these injectors are readily rebuildable by any knowledgeable diesel shop? Or would it be more specialized? I mean? What I see is very old low technology injectors here, whereas the injectors of today seem in a different plane of technology and design. It appears, even from parts schematic, that these S126 injectors can be disassembled down to parts and presumably cleaned (intelligently of course) and refreshed. It’s been stated on the net, that replacing the “nozzles” has you back to as good as new! Now I am not knowledgeable on this, but it seems that “that nozzle” is critical, as the “fit” there is critical, and that’s where it’s specified that “wear can happen”. I’m not really sure how much “wear” can happen in under 1000 hours of “use”. But it seems that it’s understood that they can get “carbon buildup”, especially if the nozzle wears and there’s blowback into the injector causing carbon to build in there. I see that there’s used rebuilt replacements available online in the $125 range with $60 core fee. I’m not sure who locally could properly rebuild these, or at what cost. I guess it’s considered not a big thing in diesel land to take them to get pop tested and pattern checked etc. They certainly don’t look super complicated and high tech, so the $125 cost for reconditioned seems a bit steep. The nozzles appear to be available, even on ebay, and not expensive. But I could be wrong on that, not having the injectors in my hands and the nozzles to ascertain correctness. I guess any established tractor supply dealership could point me in the direction of properly sorting used injectors and options to address that effectively. It looks like the 5015, 5020 and 5030 Allis variants all used the same injectors… and I suspect fuel injection pumps too. And the whole range of equivalent Hinemoto, Simplicity, Deutz Allis etc.. Strangely, it appears that the Massey Fergusson 210’s used the same injectors but different injection pumps. Not sure what that’s about. I obviously need to remove my injectors, inspect for obvious buildup and possibly configure something to spray test them directly via the injection pump itself. If that’s possible with those hard lines. It might also be possible to remove the glow plugs and spin the motor with those out and observe the compression fuel blast that comes out the two holes for equal comparable to start. If one side isn’t atomizing the fuel effectively, I would guess that that side is going to have more wet spray wetness etc vs a properly atomizing injector. I’m assuming that the glow plugs extend into the cylinder, (which?) maybe they don’t.. They could be inside the cylinder head itself just heating the cylinder head from within. Unscrewing one will determine that quickly enough. And that could show obvious deficiencies (No?) before even removing injectors. I’m not excited about removing injectors. In fact, that might be a stupid idea. The tractor runs well enough as is. Disturbing things that needn’t be disturbed might be a dumb idea. I’m not getting oil contamination or anything like that. I could probably (probably will) address glow plugs by just loosening and cleaning my connections for starters. That could address the starting situation with one cylinder not initially firing, right there. And in general running theres just the faintest brown haze at 2500rpm steady mowing rpm. Probably normal and inconsequential. Interesting that you have three and they all start uniquely. I have two.. my dad bought one after mowing for about 5 minutes with mine! His starts different than mine too. If I remember right, less smoke on startup. They say that “timing” can make a significant difference in how these start and how they run. And it’s somewhat ambiguous, because timing that apparently has the machine starting great, may have the machine not running overall as well as timing where the machine wasn’t starting quite happy. Then it seems that you want your injectors to be matched for “pop”, because it’s said that if they’re not, that it has the effect of retarding the timing of one injector vs the other and you’ll have possibly timing delay by nature of that alone. It’s said that they can shim the springs in the injectors to match them, and it’s been said that once that was done, the injectors rebuilt(nozzles etc) and properly matched, that the tractor ran like never before!
Maybe someone can clue me in here on what I should be expecting for costs to just inspect, test, optimize two injectors? Is that something that any (formal) diesel shop would be able to do? Is there a preferred provider? And what is the actual cost to rebuild one of these KIKI injection pumps if need be? It’s currently functioning and no seized issues etc… I see $1000 listed on the internet with $600 core charges. I wouldn’t expect too many opting for such an expense on a 40+ year old tractor.
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