Abrasive Blastint - What do you use?
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Topic: Abrasive Blastint - What do you use?
Posted By: Jeff(WD45-SATX-TN)
Subject: Abrasive Blastint - What do you use?
Date Posted: 07 Oct 2010 at 5:05pm
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I just picked up a smaller abrasive blast cabinet. Was a sweet deal, needed a new switch, and have the air hose fixed. The unit did not have any media. I was wondering what you all use? Was planning to go with Aluminum Oxide, like 80 grit. Does anyone have experience with glass beed, or other?
Thanks
Jeff
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1954 WD45 NF "Iron Tater"
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Replies:
Posted By: Matt (Jordan,MN)
Date Posted: 07 Oct 2010 at 5:39pm
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I use plain silica sand in the blast cabinet. I also have a smaller bench top blast cabinet that i use glass beads in. I use the glass beads for mags and carbs and other delicate parts.
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Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 07 Oct 2010 at 5:45pm
We have a cabinet where I worked and used glass beads. The biggest problem we had was people think if 80PSI works , then 120 should do better. The problem is the high pressure destroys the media way faster than if you run 90PSI or less. Our shop ran 140 PSI line pressure. If you had a decent 1/2 drive impact, you could break 1/2' bolts any day of the week. Your tools might were out prematurely though.
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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Posted By: split51
Date Posted: 07 Oct 2010 at 5:51pm
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One thing you need to study before buying blasting media is some medias can imbed in the item being blasted and cause problems later. I do not remember the media being used but years ago, a friend of mine had some VW aluminum heads blasted and cleaned. They rebuilt them and intalled them on the engine, after starting the engine and getting to operating temperatures, the area that had imbedded the media opened up enough to release it into the cylinders and caused scoring on the walls enough that it started getting blowby. This not only happened to him once, it happened a second time on the same engine, the machine shop finally figured out what was happening. If I remember correctly, the media was getting embedded between the head and the valve guides, but I am not sure.
Also, I know that soda blasting in not good around electrical equipment if not cleaned out very well. I was lettering locomotives for a company that was soda blasting them and repainting them. They sent the locos out and within a year, the media that didnt get cleaned out of the generator had got moisture to it and turned to a dough like coating causing failure of the generators
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1929 20-35 sn17662
B1 w/snow blade
B10 w/sickle mower
B110 w/mower deck
B110 w/tiller
B112 w/grader blade
B210 w/plo
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Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 07 Oct 2010 at 6:19pm
Glass beads are what you want for delicate items. If you're blasting rusty cast iron parts like I do in mine, I use black beauty. The B.B. is rough on sheetmetal. I have blasted some small engine tin and ended up using primer/surfacer instead of regular primer before paint.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Posted By: Gary in da UP
Date Posted: 07 Oct 2010 at 6:48pm
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Jeff, try trinco rad mix, I have a trinco cabinet and this stuff works well at 80 or 90 psi. They are close to you shipping should not be expensive.
http://www.trinco.com/leftframe1.htm - http://www.trinco.com/leftframe1.htm
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Posted By: Roddo
Date Posted: 07 Oct 2010 at 7:48pm
Walnut shells work well on parts that arent badly rusted, cleans the paint off and doesnt pit the metal
Other than that I've always stuck with glass bead. Could be a lie but someone told me that glass bead is uniform in size and leaves a cleaner looking finish. Could just be one mans opinion however.
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Posted By: GlenninPA
Date Posted: 07 Oct 2010 at 9:03pm
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I use Black Beauty in the pressure pot and glass beads in my benchtop cabinet.
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Posted By: Leonard
Date Posted: 07 Oct 2010 at 9:05pm
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I'm a firm believer in garnett. Works way better than silica and have cleaned heavy rust off of some very delicate parts. Just adjust your air pressure for the item being blasted.
Leonard
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Posted By: David Maddux
Date Posted: 07 Oct 2010 at 9:18pm
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I don't use the silica because of the health risk, I use aluminum oxide, steel grit, and a special mixture that I buy from TP Industries, called First Choice. a mineral mixture. Dave.
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Posted By: firebrick43
Date Posted: 08 Oct 2010 at 9:15am
Cant just have one media. Black beauty, works for most heavy iron. Silica for rusty lighter stuff. Glass beads for engine work, and walnut shells for aluminum and such.
Get a blower and pipe the outlet to outside to remove the health risk, they all have issues, silica is just the most common and has been publicized the most
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Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 08 Oct 2010 at 10:09am
just get glass beads from TSC, and go blast something. The glass beads aren't as rough on your cabinet window as well.
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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