Well water whole house water filters
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Topic: Well water whole house water filters
Posted By: Thad in AR.
Subject: Well water whole house water filters
Date Posted: 29 Oct 2022 at 4:59am
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We drilled a new well last year. We had serious problems with sediment and smell in our water. The guys that installed the pump never flushed the well. They just hooked it right to the house and left. We fought the mud in the water lines for months. Now I feel like we’ve got everything clear. Our plumber from work who happens to be a friend and neighbor installed two 4.5x10” filter housings. I run a sediment filter first then a charcoal/carbon filter. The water is Chrystal clear and has no smell. The filters say they last two months. I can go 1.5 months no problem but then the water starts to smell and show a hint of sediment. These filters cost $15.00 for the sediment and $ 25.00 for the carbon filter. I buy them at Home Depot. I’ve been looking at bulk filters online. I believe I could save a lot of dollars by going this route. Does anyone have any experience with any of these? I don’t want to buy a bunch and have them not work well. I’m trying to buy just a couple to try and then buy bulk. I can’t get most places to do this. |
Replies:
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 29 Oct 2022 at 8:38am
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Thad, if the on line filters are the same size and same micron rating, i dont see what the problem would be... They cant be any worse than what your buying now ?? You get a set and should be the same life.. If for some reason they lasted only 1 month, your not really loosing anything... just gaining experience. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 29 Oct 2022 at 9:29am
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Where I was working we bought filters by the case - somewhere around 20 cases a month minimum - as used them on many different applications - several different brands and Micron ratings - the filter themselve were a standard size across many filter housings - You could check industrial supply businesses or even Amazon , Another thing one could use is swimming pool sand filter as primary unit - then just backflush it to clear sediment - last a lifetime - then change water supply to toilets and outside faucets to supply other than carbon filter draw. For the Deionized water supply we used - the city water was run theough carbon filter bed - and once a week we steamed it - then backwashed - the heat removed the trapped organics and chlorene from carbon granuals . For water supply to reverse osmosis units we used a sand filter and a cloth bag filter before water supply to the RO membranes - this cut cleaning down to 1/2 of what it was before raw city water was used . https://www.amazon.com/10-x-4-5-water-filter/s?k=10+x+4.5+water+filter" rel="nofollow - https://www.amazon.com/10-x-4-5-water-filter/s?k=10+x+4.5+water+filter
------------- Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something. "Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 29 Oct 2022 at 9:44pm
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So my well experiences some sediment challenges every so often. I beat back this gremlin with a little crude tech... connected to the discharge port on the bottom of my pressure tank, is a 1" garden irrigation valve... which is connected to a plastic pipe that leads to a drain pipe exiting the house to a dry-well down the hill. The irrigation valve is triggered by 24vdc, and I operate it using TWO timers... one is a common 24-hour mechanical timer (like the one you're using to operate a lamp in your livingroom while you're vacationing in Acapulco for two weeks) and the other is an adjustable timer good for a range of 0-30 seconds. The 24 hour mechanical timer is set to turn on for 15 minutes every day. This powers a 24v transformer, which powers the 0-30 second timer. The 0-30 is set to about 4 seconds... and it cycles for that 4 seconds every time the incoming 24v comes on. When it cycles, it feeds 24vdc OUT to the valve. So the drain valve opens for about 4 seconds every day. When it does that, it does it so fast, that any loose sediment in the tank will eventually shake loose and go out the drain, but anything that's accumulated in low suspension, is going out regardless. My whole house filter, and my water softener, have run much better, much cleaner, etc., ever since. ------------- Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest. |
Posted By: Thad in AR.
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2022 at 7:50am
Thank you Dave. I’m going to try something like this. I installed a sink in my shop early last summer. At the time I hooked up the drains and got all that plumbed in myself. I was going to have my plumber buddy do the supply line. I needed to wash some things for a project I was working one one day so I ran a washing machine supply line from that bottom of the pressure tank to the sink faucet. I used it quite a lot during the hot months. That is when I got the longest use of my filters. I will do something like what you’ve done. I appreciate the idea. |
DaveKamp wrote:Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2022 at 10:11am
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Mine was a while ago, so specific parts have changed a bit, but here's some examples of the stuff: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Orbit-1-in-FPT-Auto-Inline-Valve-57281/300642255" rel="nofollow - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Orbit-1-in-FPT-Auto-Inline-Valve-57281/300642255 https://www.homedepot.com/p/Defiant-15-Amp-24-Hour-Indoor-Plug-In-Heavy-Duty-Mechanical-Timer-with-2-Grounded-Outlets-White-49807DI/203677447" rel="nofollow - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Defiant-15-Amp-24-Hour-Indoor-Plug-In-Heavy-Duty-Mechanical-Timer-with-2-Grounded-Outlets-White-49807DI/203677447 https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hampton-Bay-Wired-Door-Bell-Tri-Volt-Transformer-Compatible-with-All-Video-Door-Bells-HB-125-03/304225255" rel="nofollow - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hampton-Bay-Wired-Door-Bell-Tri-Volt-Transformer-Compatible-with-All-Video-Door-Bells-HB-125-03/304225255 and the one-shot 1 to 10 second delay relay... aka 'Fleeting' relay: https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/shopping/catalog/relays_-z-_timers/timer_relays/rk7815-71-61" rel="nofollow - https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/shopping/catalog/relays_-z-_timers/timer_relays/rk7815-71-61 You'll want a piece of DIN rail to mount the fleeting relay: https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/shopping/catalog/enclosures_-z-_subpanels_-z-_thermal_management_-z-_lighting/enclosure_parts_-a-_accessories/din_rails/dn-r35sal1-2" rel="nofollow - https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/shopping/catalog/enclosures_-z-_subpanels_-z-_thermal_management_-z-_lighting/enclosure_parts_-a-_accessories/din_rails/dn-r35sal1-2 You only need about 6", but it comes in yard lengths at two for ten bucks. You could make it much more fancy by using all DIN_rail mounted componentry, put it in an industrial-grade wet-environment enclosure, etc., but I'll leave that to you. Wiring isn't complicated, you'll come out of the mechanical timer with a cord to the transformer, and set the mechanical timer initially for 4 cycles or so a day (till it's well-flushed, right?)... At that point, what happens, is the 24v transformer will power up for 15 minutes at each cycle. From that transformer, connect it's output to the fleet timer's input power, and also to the fleet timer's relay COMMON terminal. Set the relay's timer to 10 seconds. There are two remaining relay terminals- the normally open (NO) and normally closed (NC) terminals. Connect your valve to the Normally Open terminal. When the transformer powers the relay, the relay will activate for 10 seconds, then drop out. You should be able to feel the valve click lightly on and off commensurate with the transformer getting powered up. Set it for about 4-5 seconds- at 1" discharge, that's enough to blow down a significant amount of your pressure tank's lower end to clear sediment. The ORBIT valve does a pretty good job of passing sediment, but it CAN get stuck, and run your tank down completely. It is not very likely (It has happened to me twice in 19 years) so for service and backup, place a large ball valve upstream of the ORBIT, so you can shut off the discharge and take the valve apart to flush out any trapped dirt. If you're going to be away from home for extended time, it's a good idea to shut off the handle so that if it DOES flush and stick, it won't run your well pump to death. And if that causes you concern, you could get really fancy with the controls... like... count the well cycles, and only flush if the well has been run in some certain length of time, add an extra switch to the well to shut it down if the pressure falls well-below turn-on (like... instead of being on at 45 and off at 65psi, the tank pressure drops to 5psi, you've got a problem, so shut down)... And if you're wondering... have I done this? Not YET... but I DID put a low-pressure switch on my pressure tank, with an alarm... same alarm that sounds if one of my sump pump high-water-level switches is triggered... ------------- Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest. |
Posted By: Clay
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2022 at 1:44pm
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Have you checked the well foot valve? If it is leaking, it can churn the water thus creating dirty water. A leaky foot valve allows water to flow back into the well and may cause a multitude of problems. This may reduce pressure, causing the pump to cycle back on and off. Pump cycling will cause your electric bill to increase and excess wear to the pump. The back flow will cause the water to become dirty. It will be necessary to pull the well, to replace the foot valve. Don't scrimp, buy a GOOD QUALITY foot valve. It may take a day or so for the water to clear. [ Short cycling may be caused by a bad pressure tank diaphragm.] I changed my pressure tank and thought it was my problem. The tank was bad but..... did not completely cure the problem. Turned out to be a bad foot valve. PROBLEM SOLVED. |
Posted By: Bill_MN
Date Posted: 11 Nov 2022 at 6:59pm
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Like said above you can reduce the sediment issue to begin with....BUT I do a lot with water filtration at work and the dual gradient spun poly filters for sediment are what you want for the first stage. Something like Pentair DGD-5005-20. We use two of the 4.5 x 20 in long filters and they filter almost 400 gallons a day each and still last 6 months. The carbon cartridge filters will last about half as long and do reduce flow quite a bit but if you're just on residential pressure it should be fine. I assume you are using the "big blue" threaded plastic filter assemblies, I'd suggest getting 20" housings and you will be changing filters much less frequently, the filters cost about the same and you can get them in packs of six on Amazon. ------------- 1951 WD #78283, 1918 Case 28x50 Thresher #76738, Case Centennial B 2x16 Plow |
Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 11 Nov 2022 at 7:40pm
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That is what many of the filter housing we used were 20" so each held 2 -10" filters as our supply were 10" by the case as throughout areas many 10" were the most common . ------------- Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something. "Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
Posted By: Thad in AR.
Date Posted: 12 Nov 2022 at 6:08am
He brand from Homedepot. We also use GE filters. First a sediment and second a carbon for smell. I recently ordered a couple carbon filters from Blue Omni s or something like that. Was less than satisfied with them. Dirty smelly water immediately. Well water with sulfur smell. I’m very interested in the 2” filters. |
Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 12 Nov 2022 at 6:14am
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friend's well has so much sulphur, his water was BLACK.... he added a small air compressor and dropped a 'bubbler' areator down the well,placed above the foot valve about a foot. That dramatically reduced the sulphur. He's also now got a chlorinator...water it fine now. ------------- 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
Posted By: JW in MO
Date Posted: 12 Nov 2022 at 7:03am
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I'm sure prices have gone up dramatically since I was doing filters but one thing for sure, the more often you change the cheaper sediment filter, the longer the carbon, more expensive filter will last. I would change the sediment filter no less than monthly, especially for whole house service. ------------- Maximum use of available resources! |
Posted By: Dawson Winthrope
Date Posted: 31 May 2025 at 4:36pm
My cousin dealt with almost the exact same setup after putting in a new well. Same dual-filter approach with 4.5x10s and the same frustration around filter life and cost. What helped him was reaching out to Watermart, through their http://https://watermart.com/water-filtration-system-service/" rel="nofollow - |
Posted By: jvin248
Date Posted: 31 May 2025 at 6:02pm
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. I use a reverse osmosis system with pre filters of sediment and charcoal. They last five years plus. The dog won't drink the straight tap, just the RO water ... Or mud puddles. . |
Posted By: BuckSkin
Date Posted: 01 Jun 2025 at 11:21am
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First, one needs to know how and do their own plumbing as such things become cost-prohibitive when involving others that expect to be paid. The swimming pool sand is a good idea as also is the timed purge valve deal. and both should be employed as well as several other tricks. I have a huge water supply in my well; I honestly don't think there is a fast enough pump to run it low, let alone dry; however, I also have a huge silt/sediment problem. The well and casing were already here thirty years ago when we bought the place. The rock stockpile behind me has an Artesian Well that runs like Kern River day and night. What many fail to do when drilling a well is to go down another ten/twenty feet below where the stream is hit and not allow the pump to get anywhere close to the bottom. Even at that, every couple years or so a manual sand-bucket will need be used to bail out all the silt and sludge that gathers in that extra depth as it will accumulate to the point of covering the pump and thus the muddy sediment-filled water gets pumped into the water lines. There is a reason why they call them sand-buckets; their original reason is to bail out sand and sediment; however, both my grandparents and many others around here used them for years as their only means of getting water from the well into a bucket and then carried into the house. My more enterprising grandfather had a big pulley hanging on a big tree limb that hung exactly over the well and the sand-bucket was on a rope through that pulley. That big tree was a lot older than the well and makes me wonder how on earth they drilled the well exactly under the big limb. The well-casing stood nearly three feet above the ground and a close-fitting kettle was always over it except when using the sand-bucket. Okay, we have got ourselves a sand-bucket and bailed out all the sludge and sediment. Now, divide the water lines such that you are only filtering such things as the washing machine and the kitchen sink and possibly the water heater; filter life will increase ten-fold or more. I can get by a year between filter changes and could go longer if they didn't begin imparting a smell. I use those standard inexpensive string-wound filters; I haven't found any of the more expensive filters to really be of any more benefit; they just cost lots more. If you have a really bad silt/sediment problem, add a sediment trap ahead of everything else; what this amounts to is a "sump", such as a very large diameter pipe with a big drain in the bottom. Incoming water is elbowed down to about half-way the height of the "sump" and out-going water exits off the top. Most of the silt/sediment will gather in the bottom to be drained/flushed out as often as needed; this gets rid of it before it gets any further. Periodically drain/rinse-out the water heater; else, sediment will get so deep in it as to cover the lower element. A water heater behaves exactly the same as the sediment trap described above; in fact, a second water-heater employed first-in-line and the heating elements not powered makes an excellent sediment trap that would probably be cheaper/easier than fabricating one. When I plan to swap filters, I fill a couple clean barrels with water for my horse before changing the filter, enough to do him for a week; then, after cleaning out the filter housing, with the new filter standing in the housing, a pour in about a cup or so of bleach. With everything put back together, I strategically open faucets where I especially want the bleach to clean the lines, such as the kitchen sink, and allow the water to run for quite a while. I also turn on a hot water faucet to allow the bleach to get into the hot water heater and do some good there. Occasionally, also saving back some horse water, I dump a quart or so of bleach down the well. As for drinking the water === DON'T --- good clean bottled water is way cheaper than trying to filter bad well water.
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Posted By: Bverwolf
Date Posted: 02 Jun 2025 at 10:57am
| We use the Rusco spin down water filters on our wells. They work well and the best part is that they are cleanable. The filter is stainless steel and can just be brushed and rinsed clean. I clean ours about twice a year and open the valve to flush out the sediment every couple weeks. We’ve had one on our house well for probably 15 years. No more clogged aerators, toilet valves or washing machine hose screens. |