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7020 PS with Cummins 5.9 transplant

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=191404
Printed Date: 26 Aug 2025 at 7:09am
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Topic: 7020 PS with Cummins 5.9 transplant
Posted By: DrAllis
Subject: 7020 PS with Cummins 5.9 transplant
Date Posted: 21 Oct 2022 at 7:57pm
Been using the tractor to haul loads of corn 4 miles and it runs really well. Wanted to verify the high idle, as the AC tach ain't in synch now with the Cummins serpentine belt pulley. Also wanted to verify the actual PTO HP.   Well, I had the high idle set just fine (by ear) to the A-C chassis at 2550 RPM right on the button.  I pulled it down to 2300 RPM, which is 1020 on the PTO and had 134 to 136 HP, which suited me just fine. I then pulled it down to 900 PTO RPM, which is 2030 on the engine. Holy crap Batman the needle on the dyno just kept coming on around !! In the end, I calculated 195 to 198 PTO HP lugged down to 2030 engine speed. We needed to get back to shelling corn, so back to work it went. I'm a little concerned if I turn out the fuel screw (Bosch VE pump) to cut down on this tremendous slow speed power, I won't then still have 135 ish HP at normal rated speed. Kind of a nice problem to have, I guess. Have to wait for a rainy day to retest it when I have more time.  B-5.9 turbo without an intercooler of any kind. Was supposed to be rated at 180 flywheel HP (as per the chassis tag info), but there's no tag on the engine to verify anything. I had to remove the original pump cover with the no boost/no smoke device on it (it was cracked internally and leaked fuel) to one without the smoke control and I just moved the fuel screw from one to the other, not changing where it was set.



Replies:
Posted By: AC7060IL
Date Posted: 21 Oct 2022 at 9:42pm
Congratulations DrAllis. Excellent! Can’t wait to see some photos later. Try to get an exhaust Gas Temp gauge installled just before turbo so you can keep an eye on it when it loads up & looses a few rpms.


Posted By: AC7060IL
Date Posted: 21 Oct 2022 at 9:51pm
If its of any interest, here's a copy of my 89' cummins 5.9L ve pump 180 hp engine ID tag. This engine is awaiting similar fate as yours. Hoping for an AC 80xx tractor donor for it.



Posted By: captaindana
Date Posted: 22 Oct 2022 at 5:00am
WOW what a beast you’ve created again in your lab Doc!!!

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Blue Skies and Tail Winds
                          Dana


Posted By: dp7000
Date Posted: 22 Oct 2022 at 8:08am
I want one.
Please keep us updated. Thanks Doc.


Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 22 Oct 2022 at 8:26am
The VE pump and 5.9L combination do make for a tremendous torque rise. I'd leave it alone, you got it set just right lol! In no field conditions would it ever pull down below rated rpm. The only time it's in this situation is accelerating to hi idle from an idle or lower speed. Spools the charger much quicker, and it probably smokes very little, and bet no smoke while putting out the 136hp @ 2300. 

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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!


Posted By: exSW
Date Posted: 22 Oct 2022 at 8:27am
Very interested.as said before have all the ingredients here to do the same. How are you doing the A/C?

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Learning AC...slowly


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2022 at 7:55am
The 7020 already had a Sanden compressor on it from a previous repair many years ago. My brother found a ready made bracket for 5.9 Cummins/Sanden and we didn't even have to change a hose.


Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2022 at 8:32am
The 5.9 with the VE pump that has all the screws turn to the max, in my 1650 won't ever smoke until it just about dies. I'm guessing by the wheel speed, tire size and weight class it's in the 200 HP range.

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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2022 at 8:35am
Even with ours pulled down to that 2030 RPM figure, there wasn't any smoke at all. Kind of impressive how they manage to split the atom inside the combustion chamber.


Posted By: Kenny L.
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2022 at 9:52am
Dr I went over and look at the girl a couple of week ago when I was down at David's place I like how well in fit in the 7020 it look like it come from the factory with it in there I told Dan I need to get you to do that to my 8030, you done a great job as usually



Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2022 at 10:32am
My brother did a good share of this project, so it wasn't all mine. When we finally figured out which flywheel to use, things fell into place pretty quickly. Still some small details to do before spring, with the largest being moving the fan shroud rearward about 3 inches. No problem in the Fall, but Spring temps will demand a better shroud location than we have now.


Posted By: Mikez
Date Posted: 23 Oct 2022 at 10:54am
Have any pictures


Posted By: JC-WI
Date Posted: 24 Oct 2022 at 2:21am
Cummins in the PS 7020 must be like a dream to run.

  Thought the old inline pumps on the Cummins were more reliable than the VE pumps but I know very little about those pumps. Don't want an engine that requires wiring in computers to run them...

  Just bought a Perkins to do a transplant into the other 'green' tractor, an 1855 Oliver that had dropped a sleeve several years ago.  So will have to get information on how to do that swap.


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He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."


Posted By: exSW
Date Posted: 27 Oct 2022 at 4:53pm
What tools/machines does the machine shop have to have to mill the adapter plate?

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Learning AC...slowly


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 28 Oct 2022 at 7:41am
When this project all started, I had visions of making the back plate adapter myself. My plan was to take the original 7020/301 back plate and sandwich another 301 (combine or tractor) back plate between the 7020 plate (which fit the bell housing) and the 5.9 Cummins engine block. Each A-C plate was 1/2" thick. To join the two 301 plates together was pretty easy. I just used the rear crankshaft seal as a pilot. I pressed it halfway into each plates seal hole and squared the rotation up so they were in perfect synch to each other. At that point, I drilled four randomly placed 1/4" holes thru both plates with each hole then getting tapped to 1/4" NC threads. These would be my alignment dowels for the A-C plates. The fully threaded 1/4" bolts could be installed from either side depending on where I wanted the hex head to be at the time. The eventual plan was to tack weld the plates together, but not until all the machine work was completed. Lots of measurements of the A-C 301 flywheel position were taken beforehand and this 1 inch thick two piece adapter plate seemed to be getting me within about 1/4" inch of where the original was. While bolted together, both plates were then bored larger thru the rear seal holes to make them large enough to pilot over the Cummins rear seal retainer/holder. We had a Dodge truck aluminum flywheel housing for a stick transmission. It was used as a jig to start the machine work. The A-C plates were placed over the Dodge plate and mounting holes to the 5.9 Cummins block were drilled. Also, the Cummins alignment dowel tube holes were machined at the same time. We now had holes with alignment holes to bolt up the A-C plates to the Cummins......except for one more hurdle. The 5.9 rear crankshaft seal retainer/holder protrudes from the rear face of the block. The rear lip of the engine's oil pan is part of this too. I now had to carve out the front A-C plate to go around all of this. The rear A-C plate also had to have some opening up done because of this too. I was trying to make it possible to access those four rear oil pan bolts when the engine was in chassis, just in case. Anyway, we were now at the point of an adapter plate that fit the Cummins block and would connect to the tractors bellhousing. Next step was to source a flywheel that would accept the larger design A-C torque limiter (7045 & up -8030 & up) getting me close to the correct depth. The boring/location of the STARTER was yet to be done, but you can't do that until you settle in on what flywheel you're going to use !!  I spent a lot of time over a month trying to find a flywheel Dodge related (I had two Dodge starters) that would work. First hurdle was there are 151 tooth flywheels and 157 tooth flywheels. I finally figured out the ring gear tooth pitch was the same between them, but of course the starter hole was closer or farther from the center of the crankshaft. I had a dimension on the aluminum Dodge 151 tooth bellhousing to work with and I found (on the "net") a location dimension for the 157 tooth starter. But, the flywheel still alluded me. An affordable one at least. In the end, our time clock was running out as Fall was approaching. My brother purchased a "kit" from a guy in Indiana or Ohio that included a machined 1" thick adapter plate (well, two 1/2" plates together is pretty much the same thing) and a used flywheel from an 8.3 Cummins engine out of a Case-IH Magnum tractor !!!   Who knew an 8.3 and 5.9 Cummins flywheel would interchange ?? Well, I sure didn't !!   Anyway, we then were able to use a starter from a 426 A-C because that matched up to the 8.3 ring gear. He doesn't use a torque limiter, but a spring loaded damper bolted to the flywheel, similar to what's on many Gleaner combines. The biggest "flaw" in his kit is the fact that if you ever need to remove the oil pan, the engine has to come out and remove the flywheel and adapter plate to get at those four rear pan bolts. So once bolted up to the bellhousing and frame rails and front support in place I welded/fabbed up some front engine mounts and everything fell into place after that. As most every project like this goes along, the costs $$$$$$ are ALWAYS more than predicted. This kit was a couple grand, but moved the finish line up to where it's now being used for Fall work.      EDIT: A somewhat modern mill with dial indicator was used for the rear seal hole boring, drilling and location of plate to block mounting holes and the alignment dowels. I did everything else myself with die grinder and thin cutting disc.


Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 28 Oct 2022 at 8:04am
Yep! If ya knew everything about everything these projects would go easier (like the flywheel thing). It's the "spice of life" that keeps things interesting and projects like this add to the fun. Thanks for the report.


Posted By: IBWD MIke
Date Posted: 28 Oct 2022 at 8:28am
If I ever do one of these type of conversions I'm going to get hold of Ed Lehman. Believe he's in Pennsylvania. He has 'kits' for Red tractors and I believe others. Of course, having the 5.9 would be a huge first step!

Slowly starting to work on the new shop where this could happen.


Posted By: exSW
Date Posted: 28 Oct 2022 at 8:45am
Thank you! The flywheel,ring gear,starter info is GOLD. I've inherited engine swaps where that is where they stopped because they were stymied.

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Learning AC...slowly


Posted By: AC7060IL
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2022 at 7:51am
DrAllis, thanks for sharing about the rear adapter plate/flywheels, starters, etc.. Since you were able to finally install the AC 426 starter onto the 8.3’s flywheel ring gear, did the adapter plate allow the starter to be mounted on the tractors/driver’s left side away from the exhaust manifold heat?


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2022 at 7:59am
No. The Cummins 5.9 engine has the starter on the right (exhaust) side. There is a fuel transfer pump on the left side that blocks a starter. The tractor bell housing will accept either side, yes.


Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2022 at 11:14am
I've know for quite awhile that the rear plate and flywheel from a 5.9 & 8.3 interchange.
 When I did a 5.9 swap into an Oliver I got the mounts from Mailbach tractor in Creston OH. Their laser cut steel block plate is cut out like an inverted V to clear the Cummins oil pan. The Cummins/Oliver swap will use an adapter to a standard Oliver flywheel so everything from the block plate back is standard Oliver parts. Their conversion uses an off the shelf Nippondenso starter for a Ford, mounted into the bellhousing on the left as the original. Yes is blocks the mechanical primary pump and it's simple enough to just use an electric primary pump. The one thing missing that I'd wished that had been done was, put a hole on the right side of the engine to use the stock Cummins barring tool to turn the engine over. 
 Awhile after doing my swap I was at Leamans in Pa. and found that they are EXTREAMLY proud of their conversion pieces. I guess the Red guys have plenty of cash burning holes in their pockets, much like those that wear Green underwear. I do have to say that their machine work on their aluminum adapter plates was very nice. I think they have started making AC adapter plates now, I'm sure that they are pricey. Every thing that Leamans was doing at the time used their own specially machined flywheels. 


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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY


Posted By: HudCo
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2022 at 7:07pm
did you make a template to sell ? or future use 


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2022 at 7:26pm
No. It was to be a "one of". Now that I know what flywheel and starter to use, it would take very little to finish my adapter plate. Locate the starter hole, bore it and tack weld the two plates together and paint.


Posted By: JC-WI
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2022 at 8:07pm
Paul, were these the mounts you used, or something similar?




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He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."


Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 31 Oct 2022 at 6:32am
Jerry: The pieces on the right and the bottom picture show the front mounts I used. The rear mount was a full plate to bolt to the rear of the Cummins block (it would fit either a 5.9 or 8.3) and the standard 1755 bellhousing.
   I wall be doing some engine upgrades this winter and will get some more detailed pictures of the individual parts. As I built a puller only tractor, I didn't use either of the HyDra powers, just a solid shaft from the clutch to the transmission connector. It has the same dimensions as a HyDra power, so one would bolt right in if I wanted.
  As for a clutch, it is also all stock parts except for a floater plate and stands. I used a standard 1755 pressure plate with 2 standard 1755 clutch discs, one installed each way with a relief cut out in the steel flywheel for the damping springs. 
  The Cummins/Oliver swap is about the easiest there is because it has been done for so many years that all the snags have been ironed out.


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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY


Posted By: allischalmerguy
Date Posted: 31 Oct 2022 at 8:50pm
That is fantastic Dr Allis! The good Lord gave you a good mechanical mind. And hands that can make it happen. Well done!
Pastor Mike

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It is great being a disciple of Jesus! 1950 WD, 1957 D17...retired in Iowa,


Posted By: captaindana
Date Posted: 01 Nov 2022 at 4:24am
Dr Allis is the most amazing…..

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Blue Skies and Tail Winds
                          Dana


Posted By: Boss Man
Date Posted: 02 Nov 2022 at 4:15pm
Cummins used to sell kits to put their engines in Allis, Oliver, John Deere. Only dry back is you had to buy the engine to get the kit.


Posted By: DougG
Date Posted: 02 Nov 2022 at 7:31pm
Bet that was BIG $$$$$$


Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 03 Nov 2022 at 8:31am
Originally posted by captaindana captaindana wrote:

Dr Allis is the most amazing…..
...and a lifetime of experience to know what works and what doesn't.


Posted By: Transaxial
Date Posted: 06 Nov 2022 at 5:45pm
That is a great project you and your brother have going! Congratulations on getting it to the point of working. A successful plan has come together! I love the detail and thought process you describe in the bell housing and clutch setup that is the key part to do any repopwer. I went through it all back in 1989, feasibility, sourcing parts for a reasonable cost, then actually being the design engineer for the machining and fabrication of all the precise measurements required to allow the proper alignment for long life at work. I needed a new engine for my 8550 and looked at lots of options. A good and simple solution would have been to buy a complete Cat 3306 with bell housing from a Steiger CM or KM280 that used the AC 20 speed power director transmission to get live pto. That was not quite enough power though and at the top end of both engines so I opted to build my own housing and clutch setup and go with a rebuilt Cummins 855 350 hp. It was a lot of work but has worked out very well over 30+ years. I worked with a local machine shop to build the adapter plate with a center hole to work out from for turning the 24" housing in their lathe. I had the diagrams and measurements and we would go over the next step of process every few days and eventually it all came together. After looking at lots of ideas, I settled on a 14" Cummins dish flywheel, a Lipe 14" 1139 pressure plate with release fingers removed because it is just a torque limiter on this tractor. The service clutch is the low range of the power director, like all 7000 and 8000 tractors I believe. We used the standard AC 12" friction discs to fit the odd AC input shaft to the transmission. I increased the spring pressure in the Lipe pressure plate to compensate for the smaller disc size. I wish I had kept track of actual hours spent but estimated at something like 1500 hours with rebuilding the transmission, drop box, both drive shafts, center hinge pins and bushings, gear set in pto to get 1000 rpm out at 2150 engine speed, cab interior and instrument cluster with actual gauges for oil pressure, oil temp, pyrometer, boost pressure, air cleaner vacuum, volt meter, air pressure (truck engine had air compressor), and a big warning light for over temp and low engine oil pressure. I have all the critical measurements and details if anyone is interested. Over the years I have seen quite a few 8550s and mostly 305s with Cummins conversions. I suppose they are way too old and obsolete now to put that much work into though. This tractor is still a source of pride (by me!) and interest by many people 30 years later.

Thanks for posting Dr Allis! These are cool projects that will be around for a long time.


Posted By: jeickman01
Date Posted: 07 Nov 2022 at 7:09am
Was the stock engine unreliable?  Are repair/replacement parts for it now hard to come by or too expensive?  Other than the extra horsepower and the availability of Cummins parts I'm wondering about the motivation to do this swap.  As I said, just wondering.


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 07 Nov 2022 at 8:23am
Original A-C 731 cube engine wasn't all that great, especially when they tried running it at 2650-2700 RPM all the time. Rated load speed was 2500 RPM.  In the early years, we had a campaign to replace all the pistons and valve rotocaps for failures because of the high RPM. That was more of an 1800-2000 RPM speed engine. Increased speed was due to the transmission engineers demands.


Posted By: Transaxial
Date Posted: 07 Nov 2022 at 1:44pm
Back in 1989 when my 731 literally blew up I was forced to make a call whether to fix it or replace it. Those tractors and mainly the engine had a really bad reputation at the time. After doing the repower I sent a writeup to Farmshow magazine and had 12 or 15 calls back about how the repower worked out and if it was worthwhile etc etc. Several callers comments were that they had one or two of these tractors parked in the weeds with 1200 - 1500 hours and a blown engine and they didn't know what to do with them. Not everyone had the time and people that I did to engineer a repower. I recall that parts were crazy expensive like $1200 a hole for sleeves and pistons compared to about that much for a whole set of 6 for a Cummins 855. Considering that I needed a block ($6000) and crank ($6000) and those were hard to come by because that was what failed on most engines, it just was not feasible to go the route of the AC 731. I could buy a new Cat 3306 with a bell housing that bolted right up to the Allis transmission for about $15,000 but it was on the small side of what I needed. A complete rebuilt NTC 350 with access to wrecking yard parts for bell housing, flywheel, clutch parts, motor mounts, fan hub, accessory brackets, air intake pipe and elbows, linkage parts and all the little things that you need for $10,000, made the choice easy.

My understanding of AC history in the industrial line of equipment was that they had the 844 cu in Budda Lanova engine which was a very good well built long life engine when run at 1600 - 2100 rpm like all the other main US brands Cat, Cummins, 60 Detroit, etc. The 844 or 6138 or 25,000 had a bore of 5.25 and stroke of 6.5". The 731 used the same block with a bore of 5.25 and destroked to 5.625". Originally the 844 ran 1400 rpm with max hp of 197 and torque of 740 ft lbs. Later as a purple Mack FS-700 truck engine they made 375 hp and some were juiced to 675 hp. The 731 and 844 were the same block and bore and weighed 5900 lbs according to one report. Way more than modern Cat or Cummins engines. None of the others ever had a version that the high idle speed was 2800 rpm. As Dr Allis suggests the transmission used in the 4WD Allis tractors was just a modified version of the 7000 and 8000 2 wheel drive tractors and was not able to take the torque of a big industrial engine at normal speed of 1800 to 2100 rpm. I learned the hard way that by running the 8550 transmission in 5th gear, low range in the drop box and low range in the power director clutches, you were flowing the power straight through the transmission and it would take the torque fairly well. That was about 5 mph I think. So because of the economic uncertainty of building new a 4WD tractor line at that time in history, just as the great depression of the 80s was about to hit North America, AC chose to "cheap out" and speed up the engine to crazy rpm to reduce the torque down to where the transmission had a chance of not melting down. I had a discussion with 427435 another very smart Allis guy on this forum about that very thing. He referred me to a book that explained what was going on in America at that time that led to the collapse of numerous old successful companies like AC, IHC, Versatile, Steiger, and a long list of companies that had been around since the beginning of the industrial boom in North America. The inflation of the 70s came to a head and Volkers 20% interest rates was needed to stop the runaway train. Companies had gotten used to ever increasing wages, costs, retirement plans, unproductive policies that made them all unviable in the new reality of the mid 80s. I believe I heard that in some of those years there were only 1200 4WD tractors in total of all brands sold in some of those years. I miss 427435 for his knowledge and insight but anyone can read what he spoke of in the book
"The Turnaround Experience" by Frederick M Zimmerman. A worthwhile book to own and take to heart as we enter another inflationary and dysfunctional period of history.



There is another thread from a few years ago that discusses some of this if you are interested "6138 truck engine" topic 74441


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 07 Nov 2022 at 2:05pm
The  8550/4W-305 transmissions were unique to the A-C tractor line. Every gear and shaft was different, wider and stronger than the 7580/4W-220 and smaller. The P.D. clutch itself utilized the same clutch disc/separator plates, but had many more of them. It was truly bigger and heavier than it's smaller brother BUT, it apparently had it's limits and more speed/less torque was the way to make it live. Almost like in the initial design, the engineers were told 500 ft lbs is all it would ever see, but as time went on the numbers kept getting larger. It was maxxed out at 300 HP and 600 ft lbs of torque and even at that the Power Director clutches had their issues, like having a tranny brake strong enough to hold them back when cold...… It would never have been used in a next size bigger tractor.


Posted By: JPG AUSTRALIA
Date Posted: 07 Nov 2022 at 5:56pm
So dr,what would be the best engine for replacement for the 8550?
Maybe 300hp 8.3 cummins turning 2400rpm?


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 07 Nov 2022 at 6:39pm
That engine has been operated before at 2500 or maybe 2600 RPM high idle, so yes, I think that would be a pretty "safe" match-up. Faster the better. The thing that one has to remember on a 4WD or FWA tractor with duals, is the engine and transmission are under much more strain than a simple 2 WD with duals. More traction and weight makes the engine and tranny/rear end work harder.


Posted By: Transaxial
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2022 at 12:25am
After Case bought IH in about 85 they started using 5.9 Cummins instead of IH 466. The IH could handle 2600 rpm in the 1480 combine but at that speed the 5.9 didn’t have good pulling power and often had pistons come apart, skirts coming off. By 1993 Case redesigned the rotor drive up to triple C belts and slowed down the new 8.3 to 2150 or 2200 rpm. Much better setup and allowed the 8.3 to produce 260 hp. I wouldn’t run a Cummins that fast. Are there any CR or KR Steigers around the wreckers? They used a 3306 at about 270 hp or L10 at around 280 hp and had the AC 20 speed power director. Either would be a better match to the tractor. Or I could just sell you my 8550 with the 855 Cummins already installed.


Posted By: JPG AUSTRALIA
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2022 at 6:00am
Transaxial, 2388 combines run 2500 rpm all day on there 8.3 cummims, factory settings.


Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2022 at 10:33am
No authority here but my 4000+ hr R62 8.3 is 2400 and change high idle and runs 22-2350 all day in field. I'm 3rd owner but I believe head gasket replacement Last summer and rod and mains is its only maintenance.


Posted By: Transaxial
Date Posted: 08 Nov 2022 at 11:24am
Originally posted by JPG AUSTRALIA JPG AUSTRALIA wrote:

Transaxial, 2388 combines run 2500 rpm all day on there 8.3 cummims, factory settings.


OK I didn't realize that they they ran that fast. I thought my 1688 was more like 2200??? They must have changed to a different piston and the fuel pump setting too.


Posted By: pirlbeck
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2022 at 7:58am
The first Cummins equipped axial flow combines ran the engine at 2700-2750 RPM's. They had some engine problems running them this fast, so the later models they slowed the engine down to 2500 RPM's .

I have a Cummins equipped 1660 that I slowed the engine down when I had the engine gear case off for seal replacement. Here are some of the things I changed.



Different gear set in engine gear case to keep the machine speed the same at lower engine RPM's

Different hyd pump drive pulley and belt to keep the hyd pump speed the same.

Re-calibrate injection pump for lower RPM's and more fuel delivery to keep the HP the same (or more).

Different tach that had a lower set point for the low engine RPM warning.

I think that was most of the changes. You will lose a little ground speed, as the hydro pump runs directly off the back of the main shaft that connects to the flywheel.


Posted By: Transaxial
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2022 at 11:02am
[QUOTE=pirlbeck] The first Cummins equipped axial flow combines ran the engine at 2700-2750 RPM's. They had some engine problems running them this fast, so the later models they slowed the engine down to 2500 RPM's .

I have a Cummins equipped 1660 that I slowed the engine down when I had the engine gear case off for seal replacement. Here are some of the things I changed.

Interesting project! It has been 25 years since I bought that 1688 so I might be off on some of the numbers. Your numbers look about right. It was the early 1680 combines, about 1986, that had the water jacket intercooled IH 466 that ran real fast. Maybe up in the 26 - 2700 range. I think they were rated at 235 hp. After Case bought them did they use the 5.9 for a while at that high rpm? Those were the ones that didn't stay together and didn't pull as well as the earlier 466 engine. Do you know what the gearset you used came out of? Could that have been from a later 1688 or 2388 or 2588? How fast does yours run now?
My reason for this discussion is to help the guys installing either a 5.9 or a 8.3 in a tractor and what is the best rpm to run those Cummins engines at based on almost 40 years of experience. I know the 6.7 Cummins in my one ton does not pull well at 2500. It likes to run 19 -2200 best. I like what you did to your 1660.


Posted By: IBWD MIke
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2022 at 1:13pm
2700 is not real fast for an IH 400 series diesel. Had the pump on my 1460, 436 cid, rebuilt this year. Tag says Idle, 1000/2500. Top number must be working speed as it high idles about 2750.


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2022 at 2:13pm
Nebraska Test IH1466/1486 (second test in April 1973 for the 1466) the DT-436 engine had a high idle of 2850 RPM and rated load speed of 2600 RPM.


Posted By: ajl
Date Posted: 09 Nov 2022 at 3:41pm
In the 1680 combine the 8.3 ran at 2600 rpm and that was later slowed to 2400 rpm in all the 88 series.  Spent many hours behind the wheel of these machines.  Usually the high rpm motor would blow at around 3500 hrs.   The slower version was much more reliable.  The 8.3 in my MF 8570 is rated at 2300 rpm.


Posted By: AC7060IL
Date Posted: 14 Nov 2022 at 8:58am
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U2B94oMkE9g" rel="nofollow - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U2B94oMkE9g



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