D17-IV Foot Clutch Squeal--Clutch Finger Question
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Topic: D17-IV Foot Clutch Squeal--Clutch Finger Question
Posted By: Paul in ND
Subject: D17-IV Foot Clutch Squeal--Clutch Finger Question
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2010 at 9:31am
My D17-IV recently and suddenly developed a squeal when the foot clutch is depressed. Otherwise my clutch works fine and tractor shifts fine. I took this photo from the bottom inspection hole. It shows one of the clutch fingers with the head of the adjustment bolt just about entirely wore off (the other two are the same way). The distance from the bolt head (what remains) and the throw out bearing is about 3/16". Can these bolts be adjusted or be replaced from the bottom inspection hole--I can't seem to get a wrench on them. Or do I have to make some other adjustment? Thanks!
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Replies:
Posted By: Matt MN
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2010 at 9:58am
|
I think your throw out bearing siezed up. ------------- Unless your are the lead horse the scenery never changes!! |
Posted By: Big Hunter
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2010 at 11:07am
| I second the throw our bearing |
Posted By: gcalent
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2010 at 11:11am
|
Yep, no dought the release bearing is gone, tine to split the tractor and replace it and repair the pressure plate or replace it. I would not put it back together with out a new cluthe and pressure plate unless they were likk new, too much work to do it again. ------------- Pullin With AC |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2010 at 11:16am
|
And while you're in there, replace the pilot bearing too.
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: JimD
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2010 at 11:17am
|
I'll third (or is it fourth?) that. Your bearing is seized up. I sure wouldn't use it much without tearing into it. Bearing is cheap. It's a bit of work to split the tractor to get to it, but not impossible. Compare prices on parts to your time invested to get to it and replace it.
JimD ------------- Owner of http://www.OKtractor.com" rel="nofollow - OKtractor.com PM for an instant response on parts. Open M-F 9-6 Central. We have new and used parts. 877-378-6543 |
Posted By: Paul in ND
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2010 at 11:58am
| Looks like I will be splitting my tractor. Any advice for a first-timer? Anyone have photos of some good support stands they have made? Should at least the front or rear stand be on wheels? |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2010 at 12:06pm
|
I have my D17 apart now. I just cribbed it up under the clutch housing. With an ordinary cherry picker that you can get at places like TSC I pulled my diesel engine, so it will be plenty for a gas. First take the front pedestal off, then take the frame rails off. While you're in there, I'd replace the input shaft seals too. There also is a bushing in the steering shaft attached to the left frame rail that might need attention too. Mine has P/S and it was thoroughly worn out. I have a machine shop fixing the shaft and hole so the new bushing will live. ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2010 at 12:40pm
|
Brian, if he just wants to replace the clutch,pressure plate and throw out bearing, why would you remove the front pedestal? ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: gcalent
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2010 at 1:09pm
|
I agree with CTucker, put a block of wood under the cast front support and the front axle on both sides so it won`t tilt with you and roll the whole front, engine and all out with a floor crane. Place a bottle jack on the blocking you use under the bell housing, this will make it easier to realign the engine. ------------- Pullin With AC |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2010 at 2:50pm
|
Charlie, I don't know for sure on a gas, but the front support on a diesel is very thin compared to the frame rails. If he doesn't have the correct splitting stand, I would say it would be very easy to bend or break the front support and have the engine drop out unexpectedly. Since he didn't say, I'm assuming it is a NF like mine which would not be very stable. It's not tough to do and if he's like me and only has 1 small cherry picker, the front wheels are easy to deal with separate from the engine, and the engine will be easier to reinstall with out the rest of the front of the tractor to deal with. It took me about an hour (not working hard) with only basic tools to have my engine setting on the floor. I'm not saying it can't be done, I'm saying is there is more risk to damage other parts or person. I'm all for shortening a job up when there is no compromise for the finished results. Nobody wants to hear about an engine dropping on someone's foot or a fan blade that went through the radiator trying to take shortcuts. If it's like mine, it will require 2 people with prybars to get the input shaft out of the pilot bearing due to rust. ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: Paul in ND
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2010 at 5:10pm
| I want to thank everyone for their comments and help so far. My tractor is a gas with wide front. Paul |