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looking for a heavier rod than the diesel buda rod

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=19005
Printed Date: 07 Feb 2025 at 3:49pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: looking for a heavier rod than the diesel buda rod
Posted By: mlpankey
Subject: looking for a heavier rod than the diesel buda rod
Date Posted: 03 Oct 2010 at 6:38am
bent one this makes two sets . looking for something stronger to handle the pressure with a 2 inch rod journal

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people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra




Replies:
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 03 Oct 2010 at 7:45pm
Make it easy on yourself.....first, use the rods that are NOT rifile drilled for oil pressure to the piston pin bushing.....two, have your conn rods heat treated like the diesel superstockers used to do.....they won't bend anymore if done right.


Posted By: wi50
Date Posted: 03 Oct 2010 at 8:53pm
I've "boxed" rods in the past. I cut metal to fit in the bream and tig welded around it, ground all original flashing off and then shot peen and heat treat, though for the cost of the rods all the work and outside costs one can about buy a set of billet ones. 
 
I made a set of aluminum rods from 7075-t6 but what a PITA
 
How long are the Buda rods to start with?
 
 


Posted By: Ken(MI)
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2010 at 5:05am
There is no substitute for FORGED 4340, go big o


Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2010 at 7:20am
buda rod is 7 3/8 long 1.27 rod ratio 15.3 comp ratio. ran a ratio of 1.25 before on 11.1 comp c farmal rod  broke cranks but didnt bend rods alot weaker looking rod.the buda rods were reconditioned and shot peened . no other heat treating than what i would have thought they would have been from the factory .  I will see if I can get a set heat treated . Is cryo better or not as good. I am wondering if aluminum would be better to handle the shock but to get them beaffy enough could cause some interference with the camshaft.

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people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra



Posted By: Ken(MI)
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2010 at 7:46am
Mitch, Cyro is smoke and mirrors in my opinion for most alloy steels, good heat treat practices will yield excellent results and good grain structure without cryo treatment, but it is very important that the critical temper range be avoided for this type of part. Aluminum rods have a very short life span, I would not consider them for this application. I'm not sure who forged the Buda rods, but if they say Atlas on them, chances are that they are made form 1040 sbq forgings,  and the mechanical properties are limited, and re-heat-treating won't do much for them. I would persue a 4000 series alloy rod, preferably forged, but even a machined rod from the right material would do well for you.


Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2010 at 8:00am
Originally posted by Ken(MI) Ken(MI) wrote:

Mitch, Cyro is smoke and mirrors in my opinion for most alloy steels, good heat treat practices will yield excellent results and good grain structure without cryo treatment, but it is very important that the critical temper range be avoided for this type of part. Aluminum rods have a very short life span, I would not consider them for this application. I'm not sure who forged the Buda rods, but if they say Atlas on them, chances are that they are made form 1040 sbq forgings,  and the mechanical properties are limited, and re-heat-treating won't do much for them. I would persue a 4000 series alloy rod, preferably forged, but even a machined rod from the right material would do well for you.
I am almost positive atlas manufactured them. Does anyone know the crankpin diameter of the 7.3 powerstroke.

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people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra



Posted By: firebrick43
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2010 at 10:25am
Second the cryo, it doesnt do anything for a regular rod.  It might, and that is a big might help stabilize some types of steels after heat treat but the amounts shown to help are so minuscule it could be just natural variation in the material, not worth the money in my opinion.    


Posted By: Bee
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2010 at 1:52pm
Try Joe Mondello.
http://www.mondello.com
You will see his name on many Don Garlits Dragsters.  


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Bob, North Carolina

1949 B


Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2010 at 2:41pm
Here you go, straight out of Ford service info: Rod bearing I.D. 2.5005-2.5025, center to center 7.130, piston pin bushing I.D. 1.308-1.309.
My Buda rods say "Atlas" on one side and Buda on the other.
I thought Joe Mondello was known as Mr. Oldsmobile.


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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford


Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2010 at 4:50pm
joes just up the road a piece from me.

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people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra



Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2010 at 5:11pm
Originally posted by Brian Jasper co. Ia Brian Jasper co. Ia wrote:

Here you go, straight out of Ford service info: Rod bearing I.D. 2.5005-2.5025, center to center 7.130, piston pin bushing I.D. 1.308-1.309.
My Buda rods say "Atlas" on one side and Buda on the other.
I thought Joe Mondello was known as Mr. Oldsmobile.
  the 7.3 rods out of the question crankpin to large . I really would like to stay with the 7 3/8 rod and 1.27 ratio . spent to much time on cams duration to change it to.

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people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra



Posted By: Bee
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2010 at 6:02pm
When it comes to engines Joe can do anything.  He does loves Olds but he also rebuilds about anything.  He has been porting cylinder heads for 57 yrs.  He has a fully equipped shop including dyno, flowbench, and cryo. 

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Bob, North Carolina

1949 B


Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2010 at 6:40pm
He was on Power Block last season. Sounded like he really knew what he was talking about.
6.0 rods have larger journals. V10 rods measure 53.049MM to 53.027MM. I don't have my fractional to metric conversion chart handy, and the length is not given either. Looks like the pre powerstroke 7.3's are also 2.5. I'm not having any luck finding 6.9L diesel dimensions. That might be another way to go.


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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford


Posted By: Dnoym N. S. Can.
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2010 at 7:19pm
mlpankey  and Brian Jasper
6.9L IDI, 7.3L IDI 1983-1994
The same connecting rod (c/n 1816619C1) was used for all the 6.9L and 7.3L IDI non-turbo apps
i found this on the net
hth
B:-)   Dnoym
mlpankey


Posted By: Dnoym N. S. Can.
Date Posted: 04 Oct 2010 at 7:31pm
mlpankey tried to put this in the
last post but it didn`t show up


http://www.standardcrankshaft.com/connectingrodcatalog.html?sid=4272 - http://www.standardcrankshaft.com
http://www.standardcrankshaft.com/connectingrodcatalog.html?sid=4272 - /connectingrodcatalog.html?sid=4272
B:-) Dnoym


Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 05 Oct 2010 at 6:20am
thanks dynonm. doesnt look like theres anything in a automotive app.

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people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra



Posted By: Ken(MI)
Date Posted: 05 Oct 2010 at 6:41am
I would just about bet that those Buda rods are nothing more than 1040 steel as I mentioned above, I sunk many dies for Atlas Drop Forge in a previous life, and rarely saw material spec.s for anything better than that. The standard order of the day was to forge, re-heat, hot trim, and quench in brine, followed by a tempering cycle, a full annneal, followed by a carefully controlled heat treatment may yield a stronger part, but don't waste the money to cryogenically treat them, a properly executed heat treatment of this steel will yield a 95% or better transformation to martensite, and the remaining 5% won't make it or break it for you.


Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 05 Oct 2010 at 6:52am
thanks , ken I guess its time to call greg for a set . I had a set of forged customs but after being machined they werent heat treated and are bent jp holt said he had some he used in a 7.3 powerstroke that hadnt been treated and they did the same so he went with greg cunningham .

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people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra



Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 05 Oct 2010 at 1:01pm
I saw that 6.2 GM diesel has 2.25 big ends. Still too big? I tried finding specs on 5.9 Cummins, but only saw the small end listed as 1.5".

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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford


Posted By: d17brown
Date Posted: 06 Oct 2010 at 7:49am
i use farmall 350 rods with 325 psi compression and no bending or breaking in 5 years


Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 06 Oct 2010 at 9:19am
Originally posted by d17brown d17brown wrote:

i use farmall 350 rods with 325 psi compression and no bending or breaking in 5 years
yes we didnt bend the c farmall rod either at a cylinder psi of 300 or so . I first thought with the other motor timing was what bent the first set . Timing could have started the buda rod to bend in the new motor when the gov weights blew . rpms went higher than timing was advanced for by being locked to total timming but its essentially locked to total timming also with a dizzy using mechanical advance because according to allis manuals the delco 111 dizzys advance should be all in at 800 rpms.i usually idle around the pulls at 1000 rpms to keep plugs cleaned.  cylinder pressure is in the 500 psi area. I am thinking its more a horsepower/rpm issue. with the rods seeing twice the rpms and hp they would have been engineered for in a 262.

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people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra




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