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7000 Series Coupler Replacement

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=189212
Printed Date: 15 Oct 2025 at 7:09am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: 7000 Series Coupler Replacement
Posted By: CrestonM
Subject: 7000 Series Coupler Replacement
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2022 at 10:04am
What I would think should be a simple task is taking more time than I thought it should. I need a set of remote couplers for my 7080 but I don’t know how to find the OEM style. The PO took the originals off and replaced them with really cheap ones That don’t work worth a darn, and they aren’t mounted to anything. Just hanging.
But then again…do I want OEM style? My other remote can’t ever be hooked up with the engine running. I have to shut it off and rock the control lever to hook up hoses. I’d like couplers that utilize the factory mounting brackets and attach with snap rings like the originals, but also can connect under pressure without having to use 1 hand to push or pull a sleeve on the coupler.
What does everyone else use on these tractors?
Thanks



Replies:
Posted By: AllisandGleaner
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2022 at 11:28am
I know you said you’d like to keep the original bracket but I’d change them over to the yellow and red pioneer couplers like the last 8000s used. So people don’t like them and idk why we’ve always had good results out of the and they have a shutoff valve on them too.


Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2022 at 12:12pm
Originally posted by AllisandGleaner AllisandGleaner wrote:

I know you said you’d like to keep the original bracket but I’d change them over to the yellow and red pioneer couplers like the last 8000s used. So people don’t like them and idk why we’ve always had good results out of the and they have a shutoff valve on them too.
I'm in the same camp....


Posted By: Ron(AB)
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2022 at 1:34pm
Go to the wreckers...get anything you want.

-------------
405, 7000, 7050, 8050, 8070, L3, 2300 & 2600 disk


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2022 at 3:31pm
Originally posted by Ron(AB) Ron(AB) wrote:

Go to the wreckers...get anything you want.

I’m trying to avoid old worn out parts. Plus, there aren’t any within several hours that I know of.


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2022 at 3:32pm
Originally posted by SteveM C/IL SteveM C/IL wrote:

Originally posted by AllisandGleaner AllisandGleaner wrote:

I know you said you’d like to keep the original bracket but I’d change them over to the yellow and red pioneer couplers like the last 8000s used. So people don’t like them and idk why we’ve always had good results out of the and they have a shutoff valve on them too.

I'm in the same camp....

I may do that!


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2022 at 5:37pm
Understand one thing....You MUST place your remote levers in FLOAT position and if you can't find float, get your levers/linkage fixed.


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 01 Jul 2022 at 1:23am
I’m right there with you, doc. I can’t find float with the cables. I’m a little hacked off because when I had the tractor in the shop for hydraulic pump replacement, he was supposed to adjust the cables and replace one that was sticking, but none of that got done. Here my tractor spent 8 months in the shop, and all he managed to do was get the hydraulic pump changed. It’s one of those deals that I don’t think it’s very hard to do, and if I had more time I would’ve tackled it myself, but I guess now I’m going to have to make time to do it myself since I can’t count on the mechanic.

Another question somewhat related… When I am using the remote levers to raise/lower an implement, when I have the lever in raise or lower position, the hydraulic filter light comes on (new oil and Agco filters with the screens in the filters), the temperature gauge pegs out on the high side, and fuel gauge sweeps to the empty side. When I return the lever to the hold position, everything goes back to normal. Can y’all think of any explanation?
Also, the above symptoms only happen when fluid is flowing. If I hold the lever back until the cylinder fully extends/retract, once oil flow stops, everything goes back to normal on the dash, even if I’m still holding the lever back.



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