Delco CS130 alternator wiring help needed
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=188724
Printed Date: 19 Nov 2024 at 7:32am
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Topic: Delco CS130 alternator wiring help needed
Posted By: WD45 Aaron
Subject: Delco CS130 alternator wiring help needed
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2022 at 6:59am
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All, I bought a tractor that has what I believe to be a CS130 alternator. It's not charging. I've looked at various diagrams online and I don't think that it's wired correctly. However, I've never worked on one before. It's currently wired using the L and F terminals. I need a little help to determine what the correct wiring should be and if the alternator is good/bad. I have another unit but I don't want to throw it on there and risk damaging it. I also don't know if my spare is any good. Thanks, Aaron     ------------- Machinery rescue for all things rusty or broken. Current residents include 3-1/2 WD45s, Oliver Row 77 gas, 88 diesel, Farmall super C, parts C, two Cat D2's, Clark C500-80 forklift, and a sick Kubota. |
Replies:
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2022 at 8:11am
This is from a DELCO book.... I use a 100 ohm resistor........... Not the same wireing as used on the 10 SI.. this is what you have now... You have the BAT and the L terminals connected, and no kick in resistor........I dont know how BIG your switch is, but not a good idea to switch the BATTERY cable to alternator ON and OFF..  ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2022 at 8:15am
------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: WD45 Aaron
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2022 at 9:05am
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Steve, Thanks for the info. Couple of questions. What should the wattage rating be of the resistor? The last diagram is for a magneto. Where would you pull coil power from in that diagram? It would have to be switched to shut it off. The switch that was installed by someone previously is just your basic toggle. The alternator, coil, lights all run through it. No fuse either. It seems to me that there is no way that it could produce power with the field grounded. That was throwing me off when I was looking at it. There's a video on YouTube where a guy talks about his vehicles that have both the L and F terminals wired, but mine is not the same (nor correct). ------------- Machinery rescue for all things rusty or broken. Current residents include 3-1/2 WD45s, Oliver Row 77 gas, 88 diesel, Farmall super C, parts C, two Cat D2's, Clark C500-80 forklift, and a sick Kubota. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2022 at 9:23am
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I have a double throw switch.. Basically two sets of contacts with one switch... When i turn it ON.. it disconnects the ground to the magneto and puts power to the alternator terminal... When is switch it OFF, it grounds the magneto (kill) and takes power off the alternator terminal... You can do this with a single toggle switch.. You turn it ON and you put power to the RESISTOR and power to your Ignition Coil... Or you can do it with a key switch. The resistor i use are about 3/8 inch square and 2 inches long...i will try to post a photo. I bought at Radio Shack 10 years ago.......... this is AMAZON  ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2022 at 9:35am
I normally mount a terminal block on the tractor, hidden under the gas tank.... Easy way to connect the resistor to wires ........ or you could just splice in the line and tape it to the wires. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: WD45 Aaron
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2022 at 9:30pm
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Steve, Progress report. I rewired everything per your diagrams and instructions. I dug through my collection of electronic parts and found an old school 6 watt 100 ohm wire wound resistor that I salvaged from a cb radio decades ago. It's similar to the attached picture. I trimmed off the pcb through hole pins. The remaining leg was reasonably close to a spade terminal. With the tractor cracked off idle I measured about 11.8 volts. Not great but it didn't cotinue to drop as before. I turned on the lights and the ammeter jumped towards the positive range. About half of full range give or take. Before the ammeter never moved off zero and the lights were very dim to non existing. I believe the battery has a dead short. I finished up spring tillage (garden). Immediately after shutting it off there was zero power from the battery. So, I think the alternator is at least putting out something. Maybe with a good battery we'll be in good shape. Thanks for your help. Aaron  ------------- Machinery rescue for all things rusty or broken. Current residents include 3-1/2 WD45s, Oliver Row 77 gas, 88 diesel, Farmall super C, parts C, two Cat D2's, Clark C500-80 forklift, and a sick Kubota. |
Posted By: Ed (Ont)
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2022 at 7:18am
| Your battery voltage has to be 12.5 to 12.8 with engine off and 13.5 to 14.5 with engine running. Any different and you have some problems. Charge your battery with a battery charger and test it and go from there. |
Posted By: WD45 Aaron
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2022 at 8:56am
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I think the battery is no good and likely has a shorted cell. Although, I don't know for any certainty if the alternator is any good. I'll try and put a charger on the battery, but I'm not optimistic. Yesterday while running the voltage was low, but stable. Prior to the wiring changes the voltage would continue to drop until it was too low for the coil to fire. I'm thinking that a known good battery would be the next step. After 30-40 minutes of running I shut it off. The lights wouldn't come on, not even dimly. However, when it was running the light were nice and bright. I think the alternator is putting out at least something, but the battery just isn't up to par. ------------- Machinery rescue for all things rusty or broken. Current residents include 3-1/2 WD45s, Oliver Row 77 gas, 88 diesel, Farmall super C, parts C, two Cat D2's, Clark C500-80 forklift, and a sick Kubota. |
Posted By: Jim.ME
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2022 at 12:04pm
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Do you have a handheld voltmeter? As has been suggested check the battery voltage before starting the tractor, it should be around 12.6 volts. If not, the battery is weak. Turn the lights on and see if that reading drops. It should drop slightly. A big drop would further indicate a bad battery. If it doesn't drop, you likely have a bad connection somewhere. The alternator voltage will only go up as needed (to the maximum regulator voltage limit) to overcome the battery voltage. So, if the battery is really low, or dead, you will read low voltage (like the 11.8 volts you posted) during charging. You need a good battery to really tell what the alternator is doing.
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