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Buda diesel starting habits

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Topic: Buda diesel starting habits

Posted By: DSeries4
Subject: Buda diesel starting habits
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2010 at 9:40pm

Is it normal for a Buda diesel engine to require 3 or 4 cranks to start up when cold on a 50 degree day? A few years back, I remember seeing a different one needing more attempts. Once started, the engine runs fine.

Does this indicate any injector problems or major repairs?

Thanks.

Replies:

Posted By: DanNESD
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2010 at 10:01pm

Mine takes quite a bit to get started but once it starts it runs great.

Posted By: Eldon (WA)
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2010 at 11:03pm

Very rare to see a Buda diesel without a can of ether in the tool box.....use it sparingly!

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Posted By: Calvin Schmidt
Date Posted: 28 Sep 2010 at 5:41am

I have a D-15 and two D-17 with Buda diesels. It's normal for them to need some preheat in the manifold and some cranking to start. They will also run a little rough for a minute or two. I never use ether to start because of the indirect injection design head. A Buda engine will give lots of good service if you follow the rules; Leave it warm up before putting it to work, Leave it cool down before turning it off, Don't turn up the pump.

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Posted By: GregLawlerMinn
Date Posted: 28 Sep 2010 at 8:54am

Mine does not want to fire when below 40F. Installed a tank heater (my preheater button is froze and have not gotton around to fixing/replacing it) and plug it in when temp cools down. after 15 mins-1/2 hr it fires right up W/O ether and exhaust is pretty clear. I also don't like to use ether for starting.

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Posted By: Jeff Z. NY
Date Posted: 28 Sep 2010 at 9:02am

If the rings are sealing really good giving the cylinders good compression the engine will start with less revs than one with poor rings and lower compression.

Better compression makes more heat in the cylinder than an engine with lower compression.

Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 28 Sep 2010 at 11:54am

Sounds like mine before I took it apart to fix a head gasket issue. At 50 degrees it started fine but smoked a fair amount for 10-20 seconds. Any colder and it would blubber but still start fine. Like Eldon says, be very sparing on the ether or plug it in. You could do a compression test on it if they will let you.

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Posted By: BobHnwO
Date Posted: 28 Sep 2010 at 1:56pm

My 7060 and D17D always start hard below 50,but my 1962 Case Diesel TLB will fire right off at 20 degrees with no heat or ether.

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Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 28 Sep 2010 at 2:47pm

Best starting older diesel I've been around is a 1973 1066. Starts almost like a gas engine. Don't care for the rest of the tractor though.

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Posted By: D-17_Dave
Date Posted: 28 Sep 2010 at 5:27pm

The thing to remember about the Buda diesels is they are based on the Lanova head design which has indirect injection AND the power cell. Since the power cell bleeds off a small amount of compresion it makes for a somewhat tempermental engine to start when the temps take a dip. The power cell is designed for torque and high efficiancy as the late model diesels were designed for easy starting.

Other things that contribute to good starting are good batteries, real good battery cables, and an injection pump thats capable of delivering proper fuel flow at low rpms. A worn transfer pump in a Roosa-Master pump can require several wasted revolutions to get fuel into the rotory head to fire the injectors. Just some stuff to think about.

Posted By: j.w.freck
Date Posted: 28 Sep 2010 at 10:21pm

anybody with a buda engine in a wd-45,the best investment they can make is a block heater.the engine is a 50 degree or above engine.once running its a whirlwind.

Posted By: Jason(OH)
Date Posted: 28 Sep 2010 at 10:36pm

My dads starts hard below 50 degrees also. We NEVER, I repeat, NEVER use ether to start it. Too much time and money wrapped up in the engine to possibly do damage with ether. What we did was remove the pre-heater from the pre-heater chamber (it didn't work any way), and use a small propane or mapp gas torch, stick the tip of the torch in the chamber for a minute or two and allow the torch to heat the air in the intake manifold. Fires up every time. On really cold days though, we have to hold the torch there for a couple of minutes until the engine warms up.

Posted By: j.w.freck
Date Posted: 28 Sep 2010 at 10:50pm

you are right jason,as it states in the ops procedure,to remove the cap on the intake and use an asbestose swab soaked in diesel fuel and ignited.crank the engine over with it drawing the flames into the intake manifold.or you can relocate in texas where you dont need to use that procedure..

Posted By: JC-WI
Date Posted: 28 Sep 2010 at 10:56pm

On the 45 or early D17 diesels we used a milk strainer pad and just put a whiff of ether on it and then opened up the plug on the side of the manifold and started cranking the engine and just brought he pad up to the hole and it just sniffed the ether off the pad and that was all it would take to start it down to -20... winter weight oil and good batteries of course. Below that, you better have it close to electricety to plug the tank heater in for an hour and put a blankie on to keep the warmth in. But was best to just use the 170, D17 or the 45 gas for choring instead of trying to wake the diesels up.

Posted By: Calvin Schmidt
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2010 at 5:38am

I've never done it or know of anyone who has personally done this, but last week someone told me that soaking a rag is gas and holding in the air intake will start a diesel in cold weather.

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Posted By: ChuckLuedtkeSEWI
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2010 at 6:09am

Calvin, I have used that method on my 45 diesel before, but now I do what Jason says. I just pull the plug out by the manifold heater, and put a propane torch in the hole and then start cranking it over. It will start up and depending on how cold it is, you might have to hold it there for 10-15 seconds until the engine will run on it's own. I then let it warm up good before I do anything with it.