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Allis Chalmers 7060

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=187803
Printed Date: 28 Mar 2024 at 6:20am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Allis Chalmers 7060
Posted By: AllisOwner7060
Subject: Allis Chalmers 7060
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2022 at 11:26am
Hey all I’m looking for some advice on what to do here. I’ve got an AC7060 that has sat untouched, unloved by her owners since 2014 because it blew a hydraulic line. I’m working on trying to get it running again so I can get it in the shop to get it worked on. I’ve replaced the fuel filter and drained the fuel tank so it has new fuel. The hand primer that’s on it now is shot so I got a new one to put on it but I haven’t gotten to it yet. When I crank it over the injection pump doesn’t seem to want to pull any fuel into the filter so I can’t get it to the primer. This is before the fuel system update so it doesn’t have an inline pump on it. If anybody has any tips that might help me get the pump to want to suck fuel would be greatly appreciated



Replies:
Posted By: Steve Bright
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2022 at 11:59am
Did you fill the filter with fuel when you put the new 1 on? You still need to get the primer on so you can get the fuel system full of fuel, I'm sure you have air in the system thats why you can not get it to fire or start


Posted By: dp7000
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2022 at 1:00pm
I’m sure others have more experience than me. But I’ve had success putting a jug of fuel on the hood and gravity feed a temporary fuel line down to the filter. Bleed line to injection pump and should start, and run to shop.


Posted By: Ray54
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2022 at 2:28pm
Our resident fuel injector repairman Ed talked of the rotary pumps sticking and breaking the shaft, I think it was. I would get his option before trying to start. I have forgotten his procedure, but have spent good money on warn pumps. I would hate to cause trouble and breaking things I could of saved. Some of the pumps are getting hard to find parts for as well.


The last well "rested" tractor I brought back to life had what I believe to be 1985 diesel in it in 2013 or 14. As it was put in the barn in 1985 with the CRP program.  Fired up once a year to make fire breaks. Until one steering clutch rusted up and would not release( A 1949 Cat 6 ). For those old enough this fuel was a blue color and smelled just as diesel did when I was a kid. Other than rust in the fuel tank fuel system was great until some Orings gave out and filled the crankcase with diesel. But stories from tractors like you are working on with current style diesel fuel are not turning out so well. As time goes on I would expect more diesel pump troubles from this "new clean" diesel.


Posted By: AllisOwner7060
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2022 at 2:55pm
Originally posted by Steve Bright Steve Bright wrote:

Did you fill the filter with fuel when you put the new 1 on? You still need to get the primer on so you can get the fuel system full of fuel, I'm sure you have air in the system thats why you can not get it to fire or start

It’s one of those glass John Deere flat face filters so I can’t keep fuel in it when I fill it because it all spills out when I go to put it on if I used ether I can get it to fire on that but I don’t want to do it anymore than I have to


Posted By: Tim NH
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2022 at 4:45pm
Just install the filter. On the to right of the base, is vent bolt. Loosen that up a ways. Pump the the fuel in. It comes in the bottom and air goes out the vent hole. There is an o ring on that bolt. So don't go real tight and strip the threads when your done. The base is aluminum.
  Tim


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1950 WD 1959 D14 1955 WD45 1976 7000 B 207


Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2022 at 7:23pm
If it's not moving fuel, it's likely got stuck pumping plungers and/or is already seized. The roosa pumps do not like sitting in old fuel. Modern fuel is like milk, it goes sour over time. Some bio blends sour sooner than others. This very issue keeps me extremely busy fixing the pumps on so many tractors being dragged out of fence rows lol!

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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2022 at 8:55pm
Install your new hand primer. Leave all plugs on the fuel filter base closed. Loosen the brass line nut at the very rear center of the injection pump. I said loosen, not remove. Takes 11/16" wrench. Pump on the hand primer slowly but deliberately until you have fuel/air then solid fuel squirting from this brass nut. Tighten the nut. Hand prime another 20 or 30 strokes. While still hand priming have someone crank the engine over with a battery charger on the batteries (2 or more) and see if it will now start. Hand throttle half way open, not dead idle.  If there is a roll pin sticking out on your fuel filter base for the filter to hang on, pinch the roll pin with a vice grips, pull it out and throw it away. That should have been done 40 years ago. EDIT:  Finally, if this 7060 is old enough, it has a small plastic supply line coming into the lower rear corner of the filter base. This design was changed (because of trouble) to a "bottom draw" hose, taking fuel from the bottom of the tank with a larger diameter ( 1/2" or 5/8") hose which was much better. Many got changed over 40 years ago, but sadly some did not.


Posted By: Ky.Allis
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2022 at 10:11pm
Doc I'm just curious why to remove the roll pin in the filter base? My old 200 has them in both filters.


Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2022 at 10:30pm
isn't there a chance it interferes with fit if not done just right?


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2022 at 6:24am
It was designed to make the not-so-talented filter changers job easier, as an alignment device. Trouble was, when you're drawing fuel from that side tank 24 inches below the injection pump it was a fuel restriction. Take the da%% thing out and use the tabs on the side of the filter base to align the filter to the base. 200 tractors don't bother as much because of fuel burn rate being much lower and the tank being above the injection pump.


Posted By: Mikez
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2022 at 8:19am
welcome to the forum. Where abouts in ny are you


Posted By: AllisOwner7060
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2022 at 8:23am

Wouldn’t the primer pulling out of the top of the filter base cause an issue trying to prime the system? I’m a little new to this so I’m not quite up on all this info


Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2022 at 8:40am
It should purge the air which collects at the top. A good primer should pump air. Do as Doc says. Crack that fitting at the back and pump....


Posted By: AC7060IL
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2022 at 9:22am
Originally posted by AllisOwner7060 AllisOwner7060 wrote:

The hand primer that’s on it now is shot so I got a new one to put on it but I haven’t gotten to it yet.

Your member profile says you've been here less than 24 hrs. So - Welcome to the AC forum. Take the time & replace the hand primer components (rubber plunger & cap seal). It only takes a few minutes. Remove the hand primer's bail(wire tab) from it's housing holes, by pulling outward on the spring loaded wire bail - one side then the other. Bail wire inserts into housing about 1/8" inch..  After the bail is loose, pull the hand primer assembly(plunger,bail/cap)out of its housing. Replace it's older rubber parts, coat the new rubber parts with fuel, & reinstall (opposite from removal).

Now you can try starting as DrAllis said. Get another person in cab to do engine starting procedure(clutch depressed, engine stop pulled out for run, half throttle, key turned on, push start button) while you pump fuel as engine cranks.

Sounds like you have an early "Maroon belly" 7060? You may already know, but if you don't - It's tractor's serial number is located in the upper left corner of its rear pto housing. It's engine has it's own model / serial ID plate usually located on the rear side of engine block(under intercooler/air intake) located near the entry side of cab door.

Injection Ed can treat you right on an injection pump rebuild that will hold up to today's new diesel fuels. Don't know what it cost to ship it from New York though?


Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2022 at 10:03am
It's very rare for one of these to not deliver fuel if everything is perfect. Sitting is the worst thing for these fuel systems. I ship pumps all over the country, cost is the same in state as it is to one of the coasts lol! This is a nearly daily occurrence having people try and try to resurrect these older tractors that have sat for years. All I can say is good luck lol!

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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!


Posted By: AllisOwner7060
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2022 at 1:13pm
I’ve got the new primer(got one from a salvage yard. Working better than the old one) on and I’ve been sitting here pumping at her for awhile with the nut cracked like doc said and I’m not getting any air or fuel up to the pump yet. I’m getting bubbles in the filter and I can hear it bubbling in the tank but no luck at the pump


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2022 at 1:50pm
You're using a "used" hand primer ??     Confirm whether you have the bottom draw fuel supply hose ? or the plastic line that draws up a siphon tube.  A bottom draw hose can be disconnected at the filter and laid down low and the fuel should just run out of the hose.


Posted By: FREEDGUY
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2022 at 6:22pm
Originally posted by AllisOwner7060 AllisOwner7060 wrote:


Wouldn’t the primer pulling out of the top of the filter base cause an issue trying to prime the system? I’m a little new to this so I’m not quite up on all this info


Posted By: FREEDGUY
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2022 at 6:32pm
I'm uncertain of what's going on tonight as far as "replying" to posts, but, IMO, WHY  haven't you taken a pressure washer to that engine ??


Posted By: DanWi
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2022 at 8:25pm
He's trying to ressurect the tractor, he hasn't got around to washing it yet.


Posted By: AllisOwner7060
Date Posted: 23 Apr 2022 at 8:49am
It’ll definitely get cleaned when I can get it running to get it back across the street to the shop. It’s been sitting across the road in the field for the last 6 or so years


Posted By: AllisOwner7060
Date Posted: 23 Apr 2022 at 8:50am
There’s a big feed line that goes into the bottom of the filter housing. If I unhook it and let it lay on the ground or into a bucket fuel pours out of it since it’s the feed line from the tank. I’m using a salvage yard primer because I didn’t think to rebuild my old one before I bought this one. Now I’ve got 2 so I can rebuild one if I’m feeling jazzy


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 23 Apr 2022 at 4:11pm
So, that's good. A good primer should easily suck up that fuel supply and get it to the pump inlet. A full fuel tank is even better.


Posted By: lentsch
Date Posted: 25 Apr 2022 at 10:24pm
Metering valve inside injector pump is probably stuck too.

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WD,D15,190XT,7000,8010x2,7060,8070


Posted By: GM Guy
Date Posted: 02 May 2022 at 10:43am
If you can afford it, fill it all the way up. gravity will help a little at that point.

A bad primer pump will be nothing but misery, buy a new one. just the plunger and seal kit, should be 50 bucks or so. the housing is rarely the problem.




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Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine.

If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help.


Posted By: AllisOwner7060
Date Posted: 03 May 2022 at 12:03pm
Being able to afford the parts is no problem I just really didn’t want to have to buy any more parts than I’d have to.


Posted By: AllisOwner7060
Date Posted: 03 May 2022 at 12:09pm
So it seems like I might have to rebuild either primer to get it working then? It doesn’t seem to be sucking up any fuel into the filter but it is bubbling into the filter and back into the tank. The tank is just about full. It looks like it’s got one of those optional auxiliary tanks on it too


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 03 May 2022 at 12:35pm
Sounds to me like you're pumping air. Like there is a breach in the connection from the tank feed to the filter base. Sucks air and blows it back to the tank thru the return. Got the correct fuel filter and positioned correctly on the base ??? Maybe the base is cracked..... Well, just maybe the check valves in the hand primer aren't working as they should be and you're pumping fuel backwards into the tank.


Posted By: AllisOwner7060
Date Posted: 04 May 2022 at 9:59am
It’s a good possibility I might have the primer on upside down. I didn’t quite pay enough attention to the old one when I took it off. There might be a breach in the connection from the filter to the base because it doesn’t take very long for the fuel to turn from a reddish color to more of an orangeish


Posted By: AllisOwner7060
Date Posted: 05 May 2022 at 11:24am
Got the chance to go look at the primer again and it looks like I did indeed put it on upside down. I’ll get her flipped back around and maybe she’ll pump some fuel


Posted By: GM Guy
Date Posted: 23 May 2022 at 11:44pm
any updates?


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Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine.

If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help.


Posted By: AllisOwner7060
Date Posted: 27 May 2022 at 8:05pm
Haven’t had much time to work on it. Got the primer flipped the right way and it’ sucked fuel all the way up to the filter and through the primer(can tell by the fact it was squirting fuel at me) then I had to walk away from it because of more important responsibilities. Took a quick glance at it the other day and it appears instead of the fuel staying the classic red it’s almost like a watered down orange color. Hopefully that isn’t a major problem and I can just replace the filter (again) and reprime it. It’s the second time it’s done that since I’ve worked on it



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