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sand blast or wire wheel

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=18525
Printed Date: 07 Feb 2025 at 3:07am
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Topic: sand blast or wire wheel
Posted By: D17 owner
Subject: sand blast or wire wheel
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2010 at 10:15pm
Hi I am just woundering how many people use a wire wheel on a grinder over sand blasting? I have done both. I have painted a farmall H that a guy  did not want to put the money in for sand blasting so I wire wheeled it. It turned out really good. One thing that helped tho is there was NO paint on it so I did not have to worry about seen old paint under the new paint if you know what I mean.  Sand blasting is nice for the hard to get places. So I ask agian sand blast or wire wheel? Eric



Replies:
Posted By: Jamie (KY)
Date Posted: 20 Sep 2010 at 10:35pm
I wire wheel everything that I can with two different levels of wheels. The course wheel for the bad stuff and the finer wheel for easy stuff. Then I go to the sandblast booth that I built and do the hard to reach stuff. The more I get done before sandblasting, the better. The booth is hot and needless to say... pretty nasty.

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Just when I thought I was finishing my "honey-do-list", she turned the page!!!


Posted By: allallis2
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2010 at 1:00pm
I try to wire wheel what I can just because I dont want the sand to get into places like bushings or brakes.

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1955 G,1938 wc unstyled, 1938 A 1938 B, 1949 G


Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2010 at 1:02pm
I use one of those scuffing pad attachment for the angle grinder, it works very good and doesn't deform the metal any.

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Charlie

'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD


Posted By: Fred in Pa
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2010 at 1:04pm
A person that sand blast a tractor that is not taken apart frist should be SHOT!!! LOL


Posted By: Gatz in NE
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2010 at 1:07pm
I bought one of those air-powered needle scalers ..it works great for getting into tight places and thick paint.  Gotta wear eye & ear protection when using !


Posted By: Skyhighballoon(MO)
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2010 at 1:47pm
Fred - sporting any old bullet wounds????? LMAO!  Mike

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1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex
1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330
1969 180 gas
1965 D17 S-IV gas
1963 D17 S-III gas
1956 WD45 gas NF PS
1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin
303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers


Posted By: JoeO(CMO)
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2010 at 2:08pm
I'm gonna agree with Fred.  I don't see how you can keep the  blast material from getting everywhere, so looks like a dismantle is in order.

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Posted By: Stan IL&TN
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2010 at 2:32pm
If it's a part that can come off the tractor then it gets blasted, if not then it's sand, scrape, wire brush, tooth brush, oven cleaner, scotch brite and any other way to get it ready.

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1957 WD45 dad's first AC

1968 one-seventy

1956 F40 Ferguson


Posted By: Fred in Pa
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2010 at 2:41pm
Had a guy that blasted his  tractor and then painted it. After all the seals started leaking and he ask me about fixing some leaks ,he says do not mess up the paint where you have to take it apart I laughed at him,he did not think it was funny,he did not use any primer you could roll the paint off right in to a ball.I would not work on it.


Posted By: Jamie (KY)
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2010 at 3:06pm
Originally posted by Fred in Pa Fred in Pa wrote:

Had a guy that blasted his  tractor and then painted it. After all the seals started leaking and he ask me about fixing some leaks ,he says do not mess up the paint where you have to take it apart I laughed at him,he did not think it was funny,he did not use any primer you could roll the paint off right in to a ball.I would not work on it.
That'd be a good lesson learned for the fella.
 
My tractor is not perfect, but I did a whole lot of research and I learned a lot since it was my first tractor. I'm interested in doing another and taking a little more time in some areas. I look back now and there's a lot of things that I would have changed. This guy sure learned an expensive lesson.
 
 


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Just when I thought I was finishing my "honey-do-list", she turned the page!!!


Posted By: AllisChalmers37
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2010 at 4:08pm
I wire wheel. That doesn't mean I like it. LOL
 
I have wanted to throw that thing so many times it aint funny.


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1937 WC, 1950 CA, 1959 D14, 1967 190XT, 2006 Ram 3500


Posted By: Dave in PA
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2010 at 4:28pm
Fred, you need to WORK WITH PEOPLE!  LOL  That is like putting the cart in front of the horse!  
 
Dave in PA


Posted By: Rick of HopeIN
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2010 at 4:56pm
i have mostly did the wire wheel on everything.  Sandblast only small stuff.  Gives you lots of quality time with your hardware.

I mostly use the 4" angle grinder with cup wheel and last year I got an electric die grinder with small wire wheel that is the berries for tight spots.

Use good mask.  Using electrolysis to get the tough stuff and complex items then wire wheel really works good on moderate size parts.


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1951 B, 1937 WC, 1957 D14, -- Thanks and God Bless


Posted By: JH Buck
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2010 at 5:37pm
I have restored seven Allis Tractors all tin blasted other parts wire brush


Posted By: Doug northern IL
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2010 at 6:39pm
Im with stan whatever it takes. Ive used a tooth brush before.


Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2010 at 6:54pm
I can't believe Electrolysis was only mentioned once!!! I got the boss's son to sandblast my round spoked WC wheels and I did the frame rails but everything else but the differential housing(mostly wire wheel) was cleaned with the batter charger and a lawnmower blade, just add water.

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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF


Posted By: D17 owner
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2010 at 8:39pm
Originally posted by Charlie175 Charlie175 wrote:

I use one of those scuffing pad attachment for the angle grinder, it works very good and doesn't deform the metal any.
 A guy at work told that to me today I am going to try them this weakend. Thanks for all the posts and info guys. Just for the book (because I dont want to get shot) I have never sandblasted a tractor complete for my own use anyway. At work I sandblasted a grader and two loaders all complete. Spent more time taping and cuting 1/4 plywood for the windows. My first project with glass was on the grader I just used cardboard and said to myself thats good I will just becalful when blasting well I took a window out, and it was the grader I ran at the time. Got new glass and lesson leaned.  Eric


Posted By: Tim in arkansas
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2010 at 8:58pm
I used a wire wheel on my model B it took  me about 15 days  working on it weekends and nights I did the whole  tractor that way

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Allis Chalmers fan from Arkansas


Posted By: Allen Dilg
Date Posted: 21 Sep 2010 at 10:18pm
  I don't think we have restored ANY tractors without sandblasting.  do any mechanical first, replace gaskets/seals that leak, scrape dried grease, remove sheetmetal, tape plug protect as needed,pressure wash if needed, remove wheels  Never blast directly at seals or any openings.  Takes less than 4hrs for carcass about 3 for rest of parts, when done the surface is sanitary for primer.   Thought   all tractors look the same after sandblasting!!!


Posted By: Dave H
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2010 at 7:58am
I am with Charlie.  I just kick back and let the stuff bubble in the tank.  Just finished suspending the D 15 back weights in the tank.  Man what a mess - they had umpteen thick coats slopped on with a brush.


Posted By: Bob-Maine
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2010 at 9:04am
I'm close to making this decision on my G. Plan is to roll the chassis outside with the engine on her, take off the wheels (which are finsihed), cover all openings with duct tape, pressure wash, then sand blast carefully. No disrespect, Fred, but I have seen Alan Dilg's finsihed products and lean toward his method. At the same time, I make a pretty big target and figure you won't miss me with the first round ;>). Bob@allisdowneast


Posted By: GregLawlerMinn
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2010 at 11:15am
I have sandblasted the tin and the bare frame/engine on several rehabs with great results. Apply lots of grease around the seals and plug the openings (I like oil soaked rags) 1st. The grease does a good job protecting the seals and the oil soaked rags stops most of the sand from getting into the openings.

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What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers.
Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2.
With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC


Posted By: Dave Richards (WV)
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2010 at 4:59pm
Remember the old adage.  What doesn't kill us, usually succeeds on the second attempt. 


Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2010 at 5:22pm

I sand blast. One needs to use some common sense and properly prepare whatever you are blasting. I don't blast near seals. I also cover any seals with duct tape and pack any other openings with grease before covering.



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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford


Posted By: Matt (Jordan,MN)
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2010 at 6:05pm
 I have a few tractors that i wire wheeled years ago. and they looked good for some time. But now the paint isn't sticking to them very well anymore. Now i snadblast everything. I figure if im going to restore a tractor i will do it right the first time. I completly dissasmble it sandblast and paint everything in peices.I let the paint dry for about a week and then reassemble with new gaskets and seals and usually all new bearings. I restored a ZB Moline like this 10 years ago and it still looks as good now as it did when i restored it


Posted By: Dusty MI
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2010 at 6:32pm
I wanted to paint my D-10 because it was rather rusty, also it was very dirty. I used oven cleaner. Sprayed it on let set and wash off with scrub brush and water, tooth brush in tight places.

Dusty


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917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express"



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