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F2 Floating Cutter Bar Header

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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=185022
Printed Date: 03 Sep 2025 at 7:05pm
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Topic: F2 Floating Cutter Bar Header
Posted By: Clay
Subject: F2 Floating Cutter Bar Header
Date Posted: 08 Dec 2021 at 7:45pm
A friend of mine bought a F2 combine.  It has a corn head and a 15' flex head.  I am trying to work out the mechanical bugs.
The Owner's Manual is for effective Serial Numbers F2-46201 and up, K2-27201 and up.
The S/N for the F2 is FK45490V.  [1980].
The S/N for the flex head is FKS49151.  [1977].
I have consulted my local dealership.  They do not know very much about F2 with flex head.  Most F2s were sold in eastern Kansas.  
This combine has a sticker from    Paul Kuhn Equip Corp    Fort Atkinson, Iowa. 
I read the manual but still having questions about setup.    The flex head 
sense fingers do not reset on their own.  
I saved back 60 acres of soybeans to cut.  Would really like to finish up by this weekend.







k



Replies:
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 08 Dec 2021 at 7:49pm
1977 header is not a "flex" head. It is a floating cutterbar header. "Flex" heads began in 1983 and are waaay different than an old FCB header.


Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 08 Dec 2021 at 8:15pm
Sounds like first thing would be to adjust cable on right side of cab, then adjust helper springs on header cylinders.                   MACK


Posted By: Clay
Date Posted: 08 Dec 2021 at 8:29pm
Originally posted by DrAllis DrAllis wrote:

1977 header is not a "flex" head. It is a floating cutterbar header. "Flex" heads began in 1983 and are waaay different than an old FCB header.

Thanks for setting me straight. Cry I used the wrong terminology in my post.     



Posted By: Clay
Date Posted: 08 Dec 2021 at 8:40pm
Originally posted by MACK MACK wrote:

Sounds like first thing would be to adjust cable on right side of cab, then adjust helper springs on header cylinders.                   MACK

According to the manual, 225 psi on the test pressure gauge.  Approximately, were would be a good starting point for the helper spring collars?



Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 08 Dec 2021 at 9:52pm
Set the rear of clamp 11.5 inches ahead of nipple on cylinder. Tried that pressure setting and didn't work well. Mines alot lower but don't remember where. Just my experience. My head is older so may be different but there's like 5? Fingers the cutter bar contacts which in turn pulls the cable to operate vavle outside window. Screw knob in to raise platform up. Pretty basic if you study it.


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 09 Dec 2021 at 6:37am
11.5 inches is close. The drive tire size makes some difference. I think I shot for 12+ inches. Too tight is better than too loose. Why?? Because too loose and you may think things are fine. Too tight and the header won't go down far enough and do a good job of cutting, so you will KNOW they are too tight. and loosen them up a little. The two small nuts on the control cable GO ON TOP jammed against each other. That control valve lever should be somewhat level when in operation.


Posted By: Clay
Date Posted: 11 Dec 2021 at 12:56pm
The Header control valve will not stay in detent.  Not sure why.  It was working the other day, when we were setting the spring settings. (11.5" is pretty close to being right).

Followed the directions on page 156 (figure 6).
Tried screwing the adjustment in and out.  Moved the screw 1/2 turn at a time.


Posted By: Clay
Date Posted: 11 Dec 2021 at 1:59pm
The problem with the detent turned out to be dirty balls.
Removed the detent off the valve and washed it in solvent and dried.
Cleaned up nicely.  The balls are no longer stuck.  I was amazed how dirty it was.
Works nicely now.
Time to see if everything on the rest of the combine is adjusted properly.



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