Shop WiFi
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Other Topics
Forum Name: Shops, Barns, Varmints, and Trucks
Forum Description: anything you want to talk about except politics
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=182515
Printed Date: 05 May 2024 at 6:51am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Shop WiFi
Posted By: 185turbo
Subject: Shop WiFi
Date Posted: 14 Aug 2021 at 9:50am
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My shop is 300-350 ft from the house and I would like to have WiFi in the shop. We have what I would consider good internet/ WiFi in the house. The shop is metal frame and tin. Is there any good ideas to get WiFi out to shop? WiFi extender ? Thanks ------------- 185 turbocharged w/ 500 loader , WD |
Replies:
Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 14 Aug 2021 at 10:36am
| Bury a cat 5 or 6 wire and add a router a wireless wont reliably reach and wont work thru the steel. I have a wireless extender and it works only if I'm standing in the shop door window. Or if the large overhead door is open |
Posted By: Red Bank
Date Posted: 14 Aug 2021 at 8:39pm
| I had a computer guy wire up some antennas that look like little satellite dishes that shoots the signal from the house up the hill to the barn and then another shoots it down the hill to one at the cinder block shop. That one connects with one on the inside of the shop to broadcast WiFi throughout the shop. Also have one shooting signal on front side of the house to my parents house across the driveway |
Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 14 Aug 2021 at 9:02pm
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I'm with dakdave, run a conduit from house to shop and pull CAT6 through it. It'll be a LOT faster and more secure. Actually pull 2 cables through and TV coax while you're at it... just be sure to bury it below plow depth !!! Jay ------------- 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2021 at 6:20am
I am interested in doing something like this. My storage building is across the road, so burying a cable isn't an option. I had an IT guy tell me about a system similar to yours. He told me that a local school had a similar setup for WIFI at their bus garage and it worked pretty well.
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Red Bank wrote:Posted By: Red Bank
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2021 at 9:51pm
I figured it could be done I just had to find the right guy to do it. It took awhile to find the right guy but it worked out great. I tried to find some pictures of the antennas but I will try to take some tomorrow. I am running six different networks on it. Each network for each location. The shop is the furthest away but I swear the WiFi is faster in the shop than my house but my wife and daughter aren’t in the shop. 
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Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2021 at 6:59am
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I have a Simplisafe security system at home. My main reason for wanting WIFI in the storage building is that I would like to have a system in the storage building. The IT guy I talked to told me that I will need a clear line of sight between the transmitter and receiver , which isn't a problem. I also have electricity in the storage building (three phase actually). Do you know of any other requirements for the system?
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Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2021 at 9:00am
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every security system needs to have a backup transmitter(nowadays a cell phone),should communicate 'I'm OK' every few minutes or so....(mine did that every 15 seconds..) and of course battery powered( should be good for 48hrs minimum). ALL 'systems' need to have various passwords changed from the defaults, especially the 'backdoor' ones..... ------------- 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
Posted By: Red Bank
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2021 at 8:38pm
uploads/18403/3312B332-0B7E-4F01-BEA5-AF76E00E4C76.jpeg" rel="nofollow - 3312B332-0B7E-4F01-BEA5-AF76E00E4C76.jpeg  uploads/18403/C7ED946C-6D62-4D20-BCBD-4BF4DDA61CDA.jpeg" rel="nofollow - C7ED946C-6D62-4D20-BCBD-4BF4DDA61CDA.jpeg Trying to post pictures of my set up with pictures of the antennas and the control panel that helps run it |
Posted By: Red Bank
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2021 at 8:42pm
| Wherever the signal terminates or passes through there is a control panel. The only exception is I have one antenna shooting the signal at my parents house and they don’t have an antenna to receive it so depending on distance you may not need the control panels. I have three networks in my house, my parents have their own network, there are two networks at the barn and two at the shop. |
Posted By: Red Bank
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2021 at 8:47pm
| uploads/18403/2D8F5194-0D8A-437A-90B6-73BC4EC5E55E.jpeg" rel="nofollow - 2D8F5194-0D8A-437A-90B6-73BC4EC5E55E.jpeg Control panel in barn |
Posted By: Ed (Ont)
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2021 at 11:47am
| I’m trying to do the same thing. I’m 100 ft from shop. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2021 at 12:12pm
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Red... why so many "networks".... seems like a repeater / antenna at the house would signal to the barn and parents house and have a receiver (antenna) there ? What did i miss ? ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2021 at 3:42pm
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most 'boxes' are 1 to 4 'switches'.... allowing up to 4 computers/devices to be connected to 1 modem( internet access..)they make 8 and 16 device switches or muxes ( $$$$$ ) actually there's a zillion ways to interconnect but I can see 1 local network in the house(say 2 PCs ,printer,link to 2nd network), a second local network in the shop (say a PC, tablet , printer, link to 3rd network) and a 3rd local network ( the parents house... 2PC and a printer). The 'house' network is the one connected to the internet. This is for hardwaired devices... going wireless is another 'can of worms'.. what gets real complicated,real fast is being sure ONLY the proper devices have access to the others.... ------------- 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
Posted By: Greg_WJP_(WI)
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2021 at 4:20pm
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If crossing public roadways, directional burying cable gets expensive. And unless you have connections you will most likely will have to use line-of-site devices. If not going across a road, my opinion is that burying cable is the best option. I would pull at least 2 cat 5e/6 cables (network and phone) and if wanting a coax line for TV. But with all the streaming services available today, that may be unnecessary. If it's a straight line PVC would be okay to use as a "tunnel" for the cable. If there are a lot of turns, I would suggest using innerduct as it will curve and allow for cable(s) to be pulled through easier. PVC gets difficult the more turns there are. Also when you pull the cable, pull another line so that you have something to use if you need to pull additional cables later. To get the original pull line through, one option would be to take a paper towel and tie a thin string to it. Then, using a shop vac, suck it through. Then pull a stronger line through using the thin string. On a side note, I scored on a section of innerduct by going to my telco (which is also my internet provider) and getting a short section that they could no longer use. Had to pay a little, but was still cheaper than PVC.
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Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2021 at 5:50pm
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I just found this article (link below) that helps. https://simplewifi.com/blogs/news/the-complete-wifi-cheat-sheet-everything-you-need-to-know-to-get-started" rel="nofollow - The complete WiFi cheat sheet! Everything you need to know to get star — SimpleWiFi
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Posted By: Red Bank
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2021 at 11:10pm
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Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2021 at 5:40am
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WIFI is wireless...so 'radio waves'... need direct line of sight between antennas,even then little things like passing birds,branch full of leaves swaying in a breeze, will lower or kill the communications. It also doesn't pass through steel (tin) walls or roofs. I have a high powered router( box) that connects my old shop next door but the CAT5 to my garage is faster and more secure. Every installation has it's challenges ! ------------- 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 22 Aug 2021 at 10:25pm
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I have lots of experience in doing it several different ways. I'd trench, conduit, and pull three runs of CAT6 in 1" PVC. Cross the road- Directional bore. Expensive? Perhaps. If you're creative, you can do it yourself with a cordless drill and 3-4 pieces of 1" PVC, and a homemade boring bit at one end, and a simple adapter to cordless drill on the other. Dig down below the bottom of the ditches, and stand in it. UNLESS you're in bedrock, you'll be able to chew a little tunnel under by just walking a straight line forward... once you run out of length, disengage the drill and glue on another segment on. As long as you feed straight, your bit will dig and pull the PVC through to the other side just fine. RF is effective, You cannot beat the performance of a land-based connection. ------------- Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest. |