D15 Industial won't move, lift arms won't raise
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=181880
Printed Date: 27 Oct 2024 at 4:18am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: D15 Industial won't move, lift arms won't raise
Posted By: C23162
Subject: D15 Industial won't move, lift arms won't raise
Date Posted: 19 Jul 2021 at 6:43pm
|
I recently purchased a D15 industrial with loader. The tractor will not move forward or reverse with the shuttle clutch unless you try for a long time. Eventually it will start moving but has no power to go up the slightest incline. The loader, which runs off the pump on the crankshaft, works fine. The rear lift arms will also not raise. I drained and refilled the fluid from the power director and it was milky like it had moisture or air. This made no difference to movement or the lift arms. I was planning to check the power director to see if it needs adjustment but since the lift arms don't move I'm thinking its an issue with the pump. Any ideas? Also what is the best source for a manual? I'm planning to buy the service manual for a D15. My serial number starts with 5000 which shows up as a Series 1 D15.
|
Replies:
Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 19 Jul 2021 at 7:03pm
first guess: Engine clutch problem.
-------------
If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
|
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 19 Jul 2021 at 7:06pm
|
I'll bet there's ZERO free-play in the foot clutch pedal.
|
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 19 Jul 2021 at 9:06pm
Also could be rear main seal leaking out on the clutch...regardless I would start with Doc’s suggestion first since its easy to check. If that’s corrected and still no movement, it sounds like it would mean splitting the tractor to see what’s wrong. Clutch may just be shot and need to be replaced.
-------------
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
|
Posted By: C23162
Date Posted: 19 Jul 2021 at 10:28pm
|
I have an I&T manual. For the engine clutch it says there should be 1/4" clearance between the clutch throw-out bearing and the release fingers on the pressure plate. This adjustment is accomplished by screwing the clutch rod in or out after disconnecting it from the pedal. Is this the free play you are referring to?
|
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 19 Jul 2021 at 10:37pm
|
YES.
There is a clutch pedal stop sometimes at the rear of the clutch pedal down to the platform. Remove all the stop washers if it has that style of pedal.
|
Posted By: C23162
Date Posted: 21 Jul 2021 at 8:13pm
|
uploads/1398/D15_clutch.jpg" rel="nofollow - uploads/1398/D15_clutch.jpg
Is the location in the image where the 1/4" clearance should be? I disconnected the rod from the pedal and turned it in both directions but didn't notice a difference.
|
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 21 Jul 2021 at 8:22pm
|
That's where the 1/4" dimension should be yes. You'll probably have to adjust each pressure plate finger screw to get there. The clutch is worn bad enough the clutch pedal rod adjustment isn't enough.
|
Posted By: modirt
Date Posted: 22 Jul 2021 at 9:49am
|
The D15 I'm stewarding was like that when found. Wouldn't move.....clutch was shot. Split tractor, replaced clutch, no problems since.
|
Posted By: C23162
Date Posted: 22 Jul 2021 at 8:24pm
|
uploads/1398/Clutch_release_finger_adjustment.jpeg" rel="nofollow - uploads/1398/Clutch_release_finger_adjustment.jpeg
I'm guessing that since the bolts are all the way in on the fingers that there's no adjustment room left and it's time for a new clutch?
|
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 22 Jul 2021 at 10:09pm
|
NO. Back them out until you have created that 1/4" dimension.
|
Posted By: C23162
Date Posted: 22 Jul 2021 at 11:02pm
|
Ok. I'll give it a shot. Thanks for all the advice.
|
Posted By: ACinSC
Date Posted: 23 Jul 2021 at 7:18am
|
I'm glad the good Dr said that because that's what I was thinking . Fav son helped me do the same on my D 15 when I replaced the clutch . Nice pics . Good luck !
|
Posted By: C23162
Date Posted: 23 Jul 2021 at 10:56am
|
uploads/1398/D15_clutch_finger_adjustment.jpeg" rel="nofollow - uploads/1398/D15_clutch_finger_adjustment.jpeg
Got it adjusted and it moves! PTO is spinning much faster now but the lift arms are really slow to raise. Tractor ran great for 10min then shot boiling water in my lap from the broken overflow tube. On to fix the next issue.
|
Posted By: Kenny L.
Date Posted: 23 Jul 2021 at 11:09am
Check your hyd oil the dip stick is on the right side of the tractor in front of the brakes with the lift arms fully extended.
|
Posted By: ACinSC
Date Posted: 23 Jul 2021 at 11:54am
|
Good news ! If it's like my old D 15 the more you fix the more you find that needs fixing . Good Luck !!
|
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 23 Jul 2021 at 10:40pm
Neat tractor with shuttle shift...recently passed on one locally and now I’m kinda wishing I didn’t. Bought a 160 the same day, had a good idea how much it was going to cost to repair the 160 and it was just poor timing to buy the industrial D15 also. Also told myself it was pretty much a loader tractor since it had no 3 pt or pto. Which is what they were intended for, so I passed, as well as my brother.
-------------
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
|
|