WD brake pin puller
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=18178
Printed Date: 07 Feb 2025 at 2:44am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: WD brake pin puller
Posted By: Goose
Subject: WD brake pin puller
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2010 at 8:53am
| Is there such a thing as a brake pin puller for a WD? |
Replies:
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2010 at 9:09am
|
Kroil, heat, cold, hammer, vice grips, and language. I hear they can be tough. Gerald J. |
Posted By: Chris/CT
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2010 at 9:21am
| One of my recent projects where previous owner decided to cobble up some threaded rod extions onto existing pins, actually looked like it could have worked except threaded rod was to weak to pull, anyay, I took long metal cutting sawzall blades up thru lower hole and cut off pins and lower parts of brakes shoes, not pretty, but out they came! |
Posted By: bigfish_Oh
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2010 at 9:24am
|
I thinking of when I replace mine of making my own pins. Either or a
tapped hole and their is no reason not to have a bigger(longer-beefier)
head to pull from and/or a hex head. Of course these brakes should not need changed again in my grandchildrens lifetime. ------------- 1941 WC sat for 29 years,started & dynoed 27 h.p. 1957 WD45 Grandpa bought new,factory p.s.,added wfe 1951 WD, factory p.s. 1960 D14 HnMk IV BkHoe 4 sale 2014 HD Tri Glide 2009 GMC CC SLT Dually |
Posted By: Goose
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2010 at 10:14am
|
I was thinking of drilling the center of the pin, tapping it, then using a section of hardened pipe over the end of the pin, then put a flat piece of steel on the end of pipe with a hole in it.
Then, put a hardened long bolt with a nut on it through the hole and thread it into the pin. I would turn the nut, on the outside of the flat steel, to pull the pin out.
Would this work? In theory, it should.
I would think someone would have already made a puller to do this.
|
Posted By: Roddo
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2010 at 10:29am
| I heated the outer edge of the final drive and transmission housing with a torch. Got em good and red then hooked an air hammer with a flat chisel blade in the notch where the keeper goes in. Pulled the trigger and after about 10 seconds of rusty dust falling out they just walked on out. They were not siezed at all into the inner side of the transmission on my tractor. |
Posted By: Chris/CT
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2010 at 10:29am
| Start soaking, spraying lots of Kroil down thru top hole before starting, I'll assume yours are frozen/rusted in, I had 1 rear where they slid right out by hand. |
Posted By: TomMN
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2010 at 10:42am
|
Gary Agrimson makes one, but if you will only be doing one tractor it may be overkill. Here is a link to it:
http://www.agrimsontool.com/ac.htm - http://www.agrimsontool.com/ac.htm
Here is a picture of it attached to a brake pin:
 |
Posted By: Dave(inMA)
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2010 at 12:31pm
|
Tom, do ya have to drill and tap the pin before you can use Gary's tool? Kinda looks that way in the picture, but maybe not..... ------------- WC, CA, D14, WD45 |
Posted By: TomMN
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2010 at 2:10pm
|
No, you don't need to do anything special - unless you do like I did and pull the end off the pin. The tool will pull the end off and like the picture shows, that is just what I did.
On mine I think the brake shoes were stuck to the pin more than the pin was stuck in the casting. Try and take everything off on top that you can and make sure the shoes move on the pin.
|
Posted By: Goose
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2010 at 2:31pm
|
TomMN,
That's a pretty neat puller - just what I need. Too bad the price is $175, otherwise I'd consider buying one.
It would be great if someone would rent out such a puller. I'd be willing to give a security deposit, rental price, plus the postage. I think it would save a lot of skinned knuckles, burned body parts, frustration and cursing.
Any of the Allis suppliers willing to rent one out?
|
Posted By: Burgie
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2010 at 4:54pm
|
If it is like the last one I did, the smoke wrench was the only way. ------------- "Burgie" |
Posted By: kev/ont
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2010 at 6:06pm
| Goose, I did exactly what you said in your earlier post of 11:44 am. you have to drill the pin pretty much dead centre and be willing to take some time, use lots of your lube of choice and don't try to do it all in one shot. Work the pin out little bit, then drive it back in. Every time you do this the nut will thread on a little bit farther. ( a word to the wise, make sure your pipe is approx 7 inches long or you will run out of thread before the pin comes out. ) took me close to 1 hour per side to get the pins out of my wd using this method. but as far as I was concerned it beat the heck out of cutting them out and a whole lot cleaner. |
Posted By: OrangeFever
Date Posted: 22 Sep 2010 at 8:13pm
| Just got both of my brake pins out after a few months hoping they would come out the easy way. Took 4 good hour with a torch and hammer before the job was done. I had tried everything from making a puller to taping the pin with a bolt and stripping the threads. I read somewhere here of a man telling us what a sense of accomplishment it was to finally get them removed and boy was he rite. With that said my advice is to cut them out, buy new hardware, and move on. |