Gleaner Combine Recommendation
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=177969
Printed Date: 17 Nov 2024 at 7:19pm
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Topic: Gleaner Combine Recommendation
Posted By: wjohn
Subject: Gleaner Combine Recommendation
Date Posted: 30 Jan 2021 at 7:12pm
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If you were ultimately looking at getting a combine for ~50-80 acres of wheat/beans/milo, which model would you recommend? I'm not opposed to a red one either, but would obviously prefer a Gleaner. I have a great AGCO dealer not too far away. I am not ready to buy yet as I don't have shed space for it at the moment. I just don't want to pass on a great deal if one pops up down the road. I have a lead on a nice F2 that I could make an offer on when I'm ready, for example. Custom combining might seem cheaper for that small of acreage but I don't want to be waiting on someone to get to my fields after they've done all the work for the bigger guys first. ------------- 1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45 |
Replies:
Posted By: bigal121892
Date Posted: 30 Jan 2021 at 7:19pm
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A F2 was the first thing that came to my mind. |
Posted By: wekracer
Date Posted: 30 Jan 2021 at 7:42pm
Only thing better would be an F3 |
bigal121892 wrote:Posted By: fjdrill
Date Posted: 30 Jan 2021 at 8:48pm
| There is a nice looking K2 on craigslist (southern Ill) for $1200.00. 13' header & corn head with it. |
Posted By: shameless dude
Date Posted: 31 Jan 2021 at 2:35am
| towards the last years of my farming, i had 2 IH 1440's, one with a 6-row CH and one with a platform, saved time switching heads! i didn't have $8000 invested in the 2 with the heads. i was doing 73 acres. |
Posted By: shameless dude
Date Posted: 31 Jan 2021 at 2:36am
| i would go with the F2 now...before someone grabs it |
Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 31 Jan 2021 at 7:54am
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Having you own machine will allow you to get the job done when conditions permit doing it right instead of when a custom operator can get to it and ruin your drain ditches. ------------- If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere. Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY |
Posted By: wjohn
Date Posted: 31 Jan 2021 at 10:36am
That one does look decent from the pics - just a ways away. I'll add the K/K2 to my list, along with the F/F2/F3. General question - how many hours before I need to be wary of a machine that is going to need a ton of stuff replaced? Granted that will depend a lot on how it's been taken care of, but overall, is ~2000 hours when I need to start getting wary? 3000? For example, there's an L2 for sale in my area with 1500 engine hours and 900 separator hours. That machine is probably bigger than what I'd need, from what I've researched, but if taken care of is it probably going to have some decent life left in it? ------------- 1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45 |
Posted By: wjohn
Date Posted: 31 Jan 2021 at 10:59am
Thanks, I'll add the 1440 to my watch list as well. And yeah, wish I had the money to put up another building so I could get that F2 now, but it'll have to wait. ------------- 1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45 |
Posted By: AC7060IL
Date Posted: 31 Jan 2021 at 11:24am
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The key item of concern on the K/K2 F/F2/F3 is their rattle chain wear points. Remove it's rear walker inspection panels and using a flashlight, view wear on inner drive sprockets of the rattle(one on each side). If it has original rattle/drive sprockets/floor & shows adequate wear on sprocket teeth, then it's actual hours may be in the 4000-5000 hour range (8000-10,000 hours if rattle system has been changed out)?? Don't always rely on it's cab's hobbs hour meter for accuracy. Those hr meters usually mal-functioned and/or mice chewed thru console wiring around +/- 1500 hours?? Another item of worth per their series (1/2/3). The older(series 1& some series 2s) mechanical separator clutches being actuated by a single console lever in their cabs were less prone to potential problems versus the newer (later series 2 & series 3) electronic magnetic clutch separator & header control cab console push button option(s). Excellent smaller efficient combines though for 50-100 acres size.
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Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 31 Jan 2021 at 1:54pm
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Had to pull false floor out of both A2 & F2 and have new ends made. Hole wore through and caught chain slat. F2 had over 3000hr non working meter. I'd own that L2 if I was you...QUICK!
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Posted By: DanWi
Date Posted: 31 Jan 2021 at 2:13pm
| Get the L2 and get done a little faster and have more time for other things. Maybe a little overkill but I would be looking for an M or L but an F2 would be a nice little machine. |
Posted By: dr p
Date Posted: 31 Jan 2021 at 3:42pm
| I always thought 2500 separator hours was the max , 2000 for a John deere |
Posted By: matador
Date Posted: 31 Jan 2021 at 11:07pm
| Another recommendation on an F2. We bought one from a guy on the forum here, and ours has been a nice little machine for us. We run 100 or so acres through ours every year, and for a 45 year old machine, it's darned reliable. If something does break though, it's usually pretty easy to fix. I've been keeping half an eye on the auctions here for another old Gleaner to have around in case something happens to our F2. Any of the conventional Gleaners are good machines. An F2 or M2 would be a heck of a machine for you, but the F2 should have plenty of capacity for your size of farm |
Posted By: shameless dude
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2021 at 12:08am
| just because it might be a big machine, it don't matter. the crops don't care if they go thru a 2 row machine or a 12 row machine. they all can be expensive to fix. anymore a person almost has to have 2 of everything to keep going, even new stuff! look around, see if there are parts machines close to you or any dealer support? |
Posted By: wjohn
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2021 at 6:17pm
Thanks for the info! I will be sure to check out those areas. That's also a good point about the hour meters dying over time. The L2 I used as an example might be in good low hour shape, or maybe the hour meters quit some time ago. ------------- 1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45 |
Posted By: wjohn
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2021 at 7:00pm
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I'll probably steer away from an L due to the height if nothing else. If I can avoid making the new shed 2' taller then I will. I can't find enough consistent info about the M to know for sure how tall they are, but I'm not sure it fit in a 12' tall building either. I also generally find it's easier, cheaper, etc. to work on stuff the smaller it is but maybe that's not that big of a factor between a K or F and an L or M? Is rebuilding an engine in a K or F cheaper, easier to pull, etc.? I also have a couple of awkward shaped fields that are 2-3 acres where smaller is better. I wouldn't even bother with them except to keep people out of them and they're next to a bigger field. As far as support and parts availability goes, around here, there are plenty of any of these models sitting around in fields, and my AGCO dealer is one of the best for parts for older machines. Thanks for all of the advice so far. ------------- 1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45 |
Posted By: AllisFreak MN
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2021 at 8:22pm
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My M2 is 11' 6" tall if I recall correctly. ------------- '49 A-C WD, '51 A-C WD, '63 A-C D17 Series III, 1968 A-C One-Seventy, '82 A-C 6060, '75 A-C 7040, A-C #3 sickle mower, 2 A-C 701 wagons, '78 Gleaner M2 |
Posted By: AC7060IL
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2021 at 9:14pm
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wJohn, you are welcome for info. the K/K2 & F/F2 model engine options were related & if serviced regularly, are capable of higher hours (5000-10,000?). Basically good engines. Probably the biggest issues with them now(+/-40-50yr later) are their seals & gaskets. Gasoline engines were standard equipment, diesel when offered were optional. 1969-76 K gas GM250 78hp with regular points distributor ignition. 1977-1981 K2 gas GM250 85hp with electronic distributor ignition. 1978-1981 K2 diesel AC200 433T 72hp, 1968 F gas AC262 (buda) 93 hp, 1970-76 F gas GM292 101hp with regular points distributor ignition, 1977-81 F2 gas GM292 112hp with electronic distributor ignition. 1968-76 F diesel AC301 2800 649 84hp, 1977-82 F2 diesels AC301 84hp for 1977’, then AC200 433I, 95hp. 1983-1986 F3 diesel only AC200 433I The G262 was only offered for 1968/69 from the older CII. The GM292 is similar to the GM250, except it has a taller stroke. |
Posted By: matador
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2021 at 9:47pm
| Ours has the 433I- it's a great, reliable engine. Ours doesn't use any oil and hardly burns a drop of fuel. A similar F-2 I think would be a perfect fit for you |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 01 Feb 2021 at 11:01pm
| My R62 is only 12ft 1in to top of main bin |
Posted By: wjohn
Date Posted: 02 Feb 2021 at 10:50pm
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Sounds like an M might fit if I found a killer deal on one. I won't completely rule them out. AC7060IL, that's a good breakdown of the engines by model and years. For the any of the K or F series, is there any dealbreaking reason to avoid a gasser? I know the diesels are more desirable and worth more, and have to be easier on fuel, but for my acreage I'm not too worried about the fuel difference. Looks like I can buy a couple of GM 292 rebuild kits for the price of a 301 or 433I rebuild kit, too. Not saying I would seek out a gasser, but if that's what I found in good shape at the time I'm buying, there's no reason to run away? ------------- 1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45 |
Posted By: farmboy520
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2021 at 7:20am
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My dad had a 76 F with the 292 gas. It would handle anything we did with the combine. I don't see a reason to run away from a gas. ------------- On the farm: Agco Allis 9695, 7060, 7010, R66, Farmall H, and Farmall F20 (Great Grandpa's) |
Posted By: Tbone95
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2021 at 8:17am
| Suit yourself, but personally I would avoid anything gas. Not because there's anything inherently wrong with the machine, but because of the GAS! Storing/sitting gas issues, gummy carbs from sitting, then begin farting around with ignition systems and such. If you enjoy that sort of thing (misery to me), go for it. Good luck in your search and choice. |
Posted By: victoryallis
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2021 at 10:11am
Yes not sure why someone would choose a gas combine over a diesel. Ohh I remember pumping fuel into the K. No thank you. Buy a later F with the 433 motor. Not to mention carburetors and spark plugs. ------------- 8030 and 8050MFWD, 7580, 3 6080's, 160, 7060, 175, heirloom D17, Deere 8760 |
Posted By: wekracer
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2021 at 1:45pm
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I have a late model L2 and an F3. We’ve had an F2 before that since about 2005. Ran K2s before that. The F2/3 with diesel is my recommendation. The only one I have not spent any time in is an M but they are basically the same as an L. In my opinion the L/M platform is not as reliable as the F. I’ve had issues with the shoe bushings wearing prematurely and dropping the shoe. Maybe it’s just my machine but it seems like it requires more maintenance than the F On the other hand the Ks plugged a lot easier. My recommendation is an F2/3. They just seem to go and are a pleasure to run |
Posted By: AC7060IL
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2021 at 3:00pm
Diesel or Gas?? Please don’t pass on the opportunity to own an old school GLEANER because of its engine. AC diesels are great. But the Gleaner GM250 or GM292 is an INDUSTRIAL version gas. So it’s not your Dad’s old Chevy pickup engine, it’s better. They are very responsive & true powerhouses of inline balanced 6 cylinder engines. Yes they will burn a little more gallons per acre than the diesel. But they can easily be choke started at or near freezing temps. Each model’s carburetors have a “round screen filter” located on top of its fuel bowl where fuel line enters carb. A 13/16” box end wrench can loosen screen filter. So everytime you refill tank, unscrew this carb screen filter & wipe off its crud(wind blown dirt that gets sucked into fuel tank - soybean pubescence,wheat anthers/plumes,corn chaff-beeswings,etc...) At end of season completely refill K/K2’s 52 gal or F/F2’s 70 gal gasoline tank, add one quart of ATF to tank, start engine & run until a diluted amount of ATF has thoroughly entered combustion chambers. So ATF is in tank, lines, pump, carb, & cylinders. Then put combine in storage. |
Posted By: Dave974
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2021 at 3:36pm
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I would agree that even though the diesel engines are great options, don't pass up a gasser that is otherwise in good shape, especially for small acreage. Those GM engines are highly regarded and with a gas machine, you're likely looking at a much lower purchase price. If only covering 50-80 acres a year, it would take a long time to make up the difference in fuel savings. Plus, my experience is that the gas F series combines I've seen for sale are more often than not in better condition than the diesels...maybe because the gassers were initially used on smaller acreage?? If you go the diesel route, you really can't lose with either diesel option. Both put out plenty of power for the application and are very reliable. I've spent many hours in a '75 F with a 301 and an '84 F3 with the 433i and while the 433 has a slight edge in fuel consumption, I think my favorite is still the 301. That naturally aspirated 301 just purrs along all day producing effortless, smooth power. Seemed like the F also tended to be easier to start on cold days than the F3.
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Posted By: victoryallis
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2021 at 7:47pm
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We had a K with the “industrial GM” motor now have 3 6080’s the 433 motor is leaps and bounds better. Fuel and repairs cost per acre is a tiny fraction with diesel compared to the gas. ------------- 8030 and 8050MFWD, 7580, 3 6080's, 160, 7060, 175, heirloom D17, Deere 8760 |
Posted By: wjohn
Date Posted: 03 Feb 2021 at 10:57pm
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Thanks all, I didn't mean to stir up bad memories and feelings! Ethanol-free fuel is readily available around here which may help. Like I said, I just want to have the gas option on the table when I'm ready to buy. Given the choice between a gas-powered one in nice shape and a "rode hard put away wet" diesel version it sounds like I can pick the gasser and not lose any sleep over it. If I were doing 200+ acres it would be a different story. ------------- 1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45 |
Posted By: victoryallis
Date Posted: 04 Feb 2021 at 4:29am
You didn’t stir up bad memories I just hate it when folks give bad advice. We harvested a lot of grain with the gasser K but I shake my head when folks say a gasser is the way to go. Another angle to gas vs diesel. I have a single axle GMC straight truck and a small diesel semi the semi hauls double the load on less fuel and moves effortlessly down the road. ------------- 8030 and 8050MFWD, 7580, 3 6080's, 160, 7060, 175, heirloom D17, Deere 8760 |
Posted By: shameless dude
Date Posted: 05 Feb 2021 at 12:50am
| in the early years i always chose gasser combines, we farmed many miles away from home and if it was cold out at harvest time, we could leave the gassers in the fields overnight and not worry much about them not starting the next morning! worked very well and also watched others bringing in generators and heaters to help start their diesel machines left in the fields overnight! newer diesels start better than the older ones nowadays even if the older ones were new at the time. i farmed 320 acres at the time plus a few custom jobs for neighbors. |
Posted By: GM Guy
Date Posted: 07 Feb 2021 at 4:21pm
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I'd pick a F,M, or L series in whatever presents itself in good condition for a fair price. My personal favorite is a 81 or 82 L2 big engine hydro. We do have a 80 F2 gas hydro set up for corn, and I enjoyed it as well. pretty decent on fuel surprisingly. could head to the field with a full tank and 2 5 gallon jugs a day would almost keep up with our short days. ------------- Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine. If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help. |