Help identify my B - partial s/n?
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=17737
Printed Date: 06 Feb 2025 at 6:11am
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Topic: Help identify my B - partial s/n?
Posted By: Greg (Hillsboro, OH)
Subject: Help identify my B - partial s/n?
Date Posted: 05 Sep 2010 at 10:37am
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I have a B and am trying to identiry it's year and complete serial number. I'm having a hard time reading the s/n. It is B7452_. I'm not sure if that's the complete s/n or if there's another digit following I can't read. I've attached some pics below and thought that maybe some of you guru's could help.
If it's 7452, then it's a 37, but seems a bit newer that that based on things i've read. if it's 7452_ then it's a 1947
 .It has hand brakes, no electrics at this point other that it has the generator bosses and a bracket there. No battery box, underhood muffler, arched front end.
What do you think? Is there any way to put something on to remove paint or enhance the numbers? I don't want to sand as I think it will just make it harder to read.
Thanks.
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Replies:
Posted By: MNLonnie
Date Posted: 05 Sep 2010 at 10:53am
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If it has hand brakes then it's before serial # 52718, and your 4 digit serial # would make it a 1938. Serial # 97 thru 11799 were 1938. ------------- Waukesha B, B, IB, G, styled WF, D15, 615 backhoe, 2-Oliver OC3's, 4 Ford Model T's, 3 Model A Fords, AV8 Coupe, AV8 Roadster, 1933 Ford Wrecker |
Posted By: Jeff Z. NY
Date Posted: 05 Sep 2010 at 10:54am
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If that is the whole number 1938 it probably would not have a starter motor.
If you add a digit 1947 it probably would have a starter motor. |
Posted By: MNLonnie
Date Posted: 05 Sep 2010 at 11:00am
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I would say those 4 digits are your whole #. With no starter or battery box it would also make it an early model. ------------- Waukesha B, B, IB, G, styled WF, D15, 615 backhoe, 2-Oliver OC3's, 4 Ford Model T's, 3 Model A Fords, AV8 Coupe, AV8 Roadster, 1933 Ford Wrecker |
Posted By: MNLonnie
Date Posted: 05 Sep 2010 at 11:01am
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You could use a steel brush and then go over the #'s with a piece of chalk, they might show up better. ------------- Waukesha B, B, IB, G, styled WF, D15, 615 backhoe, 2-Oliver OC3's, 4 Ford Model T's, 3 Model A Fords, AV8 Coupe, AV8 Roadster, 1933 Ford Wrecker |
Posted By: Rick of HopeIN
Date Posted: 05 Sep 2010 at 11:44am
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I should have a block serial number too so you can see if it was put together
------------- 1951 B, 1937 WC, 1957 D14, -- Thanks and God Bless |
Posted By: Jeff Z. NY
Date Posted: 05 Sep 2010 at 11:45am
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Sounds like you might have an old one.
Sometimes just wetting the area helps with trying to read the numbes. |
Posted By: Greg (Hillsboro, OH)
Date Posted: 05 Sep 2010 at 11:52am
| Where is the block s/n located? |
Posted By: GlenninPA
Date Posted: 05 Sep 2010 at 12:50pm
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Look at the casting number over the center core plug on the mag side of the engine.
If it is AMxxxx-10, then it is most likely a 1938.
The engine serial number on 1938 year tractors is on a boss at the rear of the engine block, just above the bell housing, and under the end of the head. It should start with BE.
By 1947, the number was stamped on the top of the rear flange that bolted up to the bell housing. They are easier to get to to read, and it should start with CE.
Given the photo and description, I'm banking on a mid 1938 model.
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Posted By: GlenninPA
Date Posted: 05 Sep 2010 at 12:57pm
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Other clues to it being 1938 are the toolbox hole for a Gemmer gear, no notches in the hood for lights, low seat and it looks like the fenders have the tabs on the inside.
If the engine has the tall water neck, and two nuts holding the valve cover on, the it is an early BE engine, but it could also be one from a later tractor.
The generator bosses confuse me, unless you do have a replacement engine or swapped block/engine....
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Posted By: pumpkin man
Date Posted: 05 Sep 2010 at 1:18pm
| the cast front wheel centers make it a 38 some had 16" some 15" is the clutch pedal cast or fabricated cast pedals came in 39 |
Posted By: Greg (Hillsboro, OH)
Date Posted: 05 Sep 2010 at 2:04pm
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I've taken a couple more pics that may help for the above questions. The clutch pedal has an am#, so i assume it's cast. There are two bolts for the valve cover, and you should be able to see the water pump neck.
I looked for the s/n on the rear of the block, but couldn't see anything. maybe once I start tearing into it, I might find it.
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Posted By: DREAM
Date Posted: 05 Sep 2010 at 4:18pm
| That definitely looks like a different engine than the one that is in my C. It is a BE series engine, with the engine number on the block runner at the bellhousing. My valve cover has 4 nuts. Yours would be older. What is that block casting number that you have cleaned off in the last pic? |
Posted By: Greg (Hillsboro, OH)
Date Posted: 05 Sep 2010 at 4:45pm
| The block casting number appears to be AM-2916 |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 05 Sep 2010 at 6:14pm
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That should be AM-2916-XX. What are the last 2 numbers?
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: Greg (Hillsboro, OH)
Date Posted: 05 Sep 2010 at 6:44pm
| Charlie, it's AM2916-13 |
Posted By: MNLonnie
Date Posted: 05 Sep 2010 at 6:53pm
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That would mean the block is about 1941. ------------- Waukesha B, B, IB, G, styled WF, D15, 615 backhoe, 2-Oliver OC3's, 4 Ford Model T's, 3 Model A Fords, AV8 Coupe, AV8 Roadster, 1933 Ford Wrecker |
Posted By: Chalmersbob
Date Posted: 05 Sep 2010 at 9:02pm
| The B looks like a 38 with a later engine. The generator bosses started about mid 1940 when AC came out with the "special" that had lights and starter. Your throttle quadrant is low also, which is the way the crank start models were. Bob |
Posted By: Greg (Hillsboro, OH)
Date Posted: 06 Sep 2010 at 12:59pm
| Thanks everyone. It had been my Dad's, and he said he was told it was a '46. I knew from the many topics here, that it was older than that. Once I start tearing into it to get it fixed up, maybe I can see the s/n on the engine. I see the flat plate on the rear of the engine, but cannot see any numbers. Maybe with the tank off it will be easier. I'll have another post soon. The shift handle popped out of place and I'm not sure how to positon the gears to get it put back in properly. That's another post though. |