WD/45 Tie down brackets
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=175441
Printed Date: 27 Sep 2025 at 5:30pm Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: WD/45 Tie down brackets
Posted By: IBWD MIke
Subject: WD/45 Tie down brackets
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2020 at 7:33am
I trailer my WFE WD45 a fair amount. Used to just run a chain around the front axle tube and bind her down. After the front-end rebuild and painting I can't do that anymore. Have been using 1/2" 'swivels', down side is they have to be removed before moving the tractor as the hoop would hit. Found a couple of weld on chain hooks in the shed awhile back and got this idea. Found some flat iron the right size, little welding, little paint, wala!
Pictures in reverse order as usual, you get the idea.
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Replies:
Posted By: Kenny L.
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2020 at 9:26am
Mike that neat I've seen them weld on the frame behind the front wheels.
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Posted By: Ky.Allis
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2020 at 10:10am
Dam I wish I could weld that good. Looks nice!!!!
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Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2020 at 11:49am
Mike, I was thinking the same thing on that weld! You laid down a nice bead! Regards, Chris
------------- D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Posted By: sparky
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2020 at 1:00pm
If you don’t mind me asking where did you get them weld ready hooks? TIA
------------- It's the color tractor my grandpa had!
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Posted By: IBWD MIke
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2020 at 1:00pm
Thanks guys, since I found the local/remote setting on the welder, it's working much better for me!
Chris, I put three passes in each joint. Welder is set up on tig right now, going to build an engine stand and possible some splitting stands this winter so I will have to change it back to mig. Hate changing from one to the other.
Kenny, I wanted something removable, hopefully looks better and can be used on my other WD's/45's.
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Posted By: Dusty MI
Date Posted: 25 Oct 2020 at 1:33pm
I hauled our car on the trailer once and tried to bind it down. That didn't work real well. Then I noticed that the flat bed car haulers were lassoing the tires/wheels with straps. I tried that, which worked well. So now I do that when hauling my tractors, front and back. It's my understanding that regulations require that things need to be 4 separate point tie down.
Dusty
------------- 917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express"
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Posted By: IBWD MIke
Date Posted: 01 Nov 2020 at 7:43am
Here she is on the trailer, new brackets work great! Since this tractor is what I haul most on here I decided dedicated chains were in order. Cut one 16 footer in two, much better to work with.
Picture was taken after returning from a local plow-day. That ol' river bottom gumbo is tough! Plow is getting shinier. Found some pretty good rocks, one big enough to kick out the hand clutch.
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 01 Nov 2020 at 8:11am
Two tie down chains are legally enough on something that only weighs 5,000 lbs.
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Posted By: john(MI)
Date Posted: 01 Nov 2020 at 10:25am
Great idea and it works really well. Personally, I would back the tractor up to tighten those chains and put binders on the rear.
------------- D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 01 Nov 2020 at 12:46pm
Binders on the front for safest results. Rear chain(s) adjusted to a proper length and tractor driven ahead until taunt and set brakes and leave in gear. Binder the front. A broken binder on the rear (been there before) leaves the tractor loose when you hit the brakes.
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Posted By: Kiwi
Date Posted: 01 Nov 2020 at 1:21pm
Hi all the tie down brackets look good I have done the same sort of thing to my Ford 4600 that I transport around to ploughing matchs but I pull the front chains back and put a chain around the drawbar and pull it forward. I all so put a old car tire under the plough shear to stop it rubbing on the deck of the truck it all so stops the shear from braking
------------- Tractors Allis EB,two C,diesel G
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Posted By: IBWD MIke
Date Posted: 02 Nov 2020 at 8:17am
DrAllis wrote:
Binders on the front for safest results. Rear chain(s) adjusted to a proper length and tractor driven ahead until taunt and set brakes and leave in gear. Binder the front. A broken binder on the rear (been there before) leaves the tractor loose when you hit the brakes. | Interesting, never thought of that. I just drive the tractor on until I get the tongue weight right then stop and tie her down there. Have been running the two in the front and one in the back. Need to come up with some brackets for the back to run two chains there too.
I do leave the tractor in gear and set the brakes.
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 02 Nov 2020 at 9:49am
On my tractors that I haul regularly, my rear chain is a specific length (or marked with zip ties in a specific link) so the tractor is always parked in the same exact spot. I never worry when I take off down the road that I have too much or too little tongue weight. It's always the same.
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Posted By: TedBuiskerN.IL.
Date Posted: 02 Nov 2020 at 11:07am
I use 5/8" eye bolt nuts on the front wide front adjusting bolts to hold mine, works great, no welding or things to attach. Available at Fastenal. His method is probably a bit stronger than mine, but I use load binders on them and they seem very strong.
------------- Most problems can be solved with the proper application of high explosives.
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