Farm Equipment - Pulling upgrades / cost

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Pulling upgrades / cost

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=17343
Printed Date: 05 Feb 2025 at 8:10pm
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Topic: Pulling upgrades / cost

Posted By: Allis Fields
Subject: Pulling upgrades / cost
Date Posted: 29 Aug 2010 at 5:58am

at what point do you need to upgrade. what compresion do you need a custom starter, what hp do you need a custom clutch? When you see a 400+ cubic 100hp wd go down the track and it looks to be efortless on the tractor. how much hp and cubic inch is needed. also how big can you go before you have to grind the block?

Replies:

Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 30 Aug 2010 at 6:54am

I will sale you the whole tractor . Another rearend block and heads for 10000 just dont seam to have time to campaign the tractor like it should be.

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people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 30 Aug 2010 at 8:01am

1. You need to "upgrade" when you keep getting beat and are sick and tired of it. 2. I've used a standard WD45 gas (three brgs) starter with a 12V (1000 CCA) battery and welding cables (including a ground at the starter) for years on a 360 engine with 12.5 to 1 with zero troubles. 3. 4 button clutch disc(from a K Gleaner) with a standard WD45 9-spring pressure plate is good to 100 HP.....hand clutch needs to be eliminated. 4. You don't need 400 plus cubes for low gear or 3.5 MPH classes, unless you intend on weighing 6500 lbs. Open gear classes need maximum cubes. Grind on the block??...any piston bore over 4.25" will require boring of the block for a custom sleeve. Any stroke over 5 inch with a stock rod will require some grinding and oil pan mods. It might be more helpful to know what you got now instead of these random questions. Next question for you.....how many $$$$$$$$ do you want to spend????

Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 30 Aug 2010 at 8:11am

Like anything else that deals with competition, the stronger or more powerful you go, the more dough is takes to do it. If you're into it for the occasional "fun" of pulling, you can limit yourself on expenses. Its the combination that you come up with between engine, tires, and weight to make your machine perform the best it can within your budget and still have "fun". Like the good Doctor says, if yer' tired of gittin' yer' butt kicked, that's where the extra dough comes in for the "upgrades". And, with "upgrades", the sky's the limit.... LOL!

mailto:Steve@B&B - Steve@B&B

Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 30 Aug 2010 at 9:09am

I know people have a hard time of fathoming the starter but Dr. Allis is telling it correct . We started all the engines I have built with a 12 volt 1000 ca battery up to the beast we built this time and the only thing we done to start it is series two batteys together for 24 volts. As for the beast I would dyno the hp it has against anyone elses build that wanted to challenge. Who knows dyno racing could be fun also. Have every reciept on parts and machine work that is in the engine. Motor has had only one hook since built. All that spinning it done cut the valve core in the rear tube .replace it today and screw the beads to the wheel. The bad thing about pulling upgrades after you have one as pretty as allis fields is .wrenching always hurts the paint job.

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people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra