WD PTO SEAL STILL LEAKING
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=172656
Printed Date: 14 Oct 2025 at 8:15pm
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Topic: WD PTO SEAL STILL LEAKING
Posted By: cooz65
Subject: WD PTO SEAL STILL LEAKING
Date Posted: 07 Jul 2020 at 3:52pm
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The PTO seal was leaking on my WD. Replaced the seal and
it's still leaking. (I didn't notice any grooves or anything on the shaft that
would have caused this) I got a kit off of EBAY that included the lever seal
and the gasket for the top of the housing. The seal that came with it is #
13797 (Single Lip Oil Seal - Solid, 1.375 in Shaft, 2.437 in OD, 0.250 in
Width). From other posts that I had found on here, those dimensions seemed to
jive with National seal # I had heard of being used. The seal that I took out
looked to be original, and it was a much thicker seal than this new seal. Had
almost a felt texture to it about 1/2" wide and then a rubber lip at the
end. Where is this seal is just the rubber lip like you would see on a
transmission tail housing. Is there another seal that I needed to replace? The
parts diagram only shows one "oil seal" but something just doesn't
seem right. Not only is the seal still leaking, but it is now leaking
around the shims that go around the bearing cage. The shims were still intact
and so I was able to reuse those, but there was a black film that was coming
off the shims. Are you supposed to use any type of silicone there to help
prevent leaks. My understanding of the shims is to set the preload on the
bearings and any type of additional material would make that different. Thanks Guys! uploads/21206/2020-07-07_15h24_32.png" rel="nofollow - uploads/21206/2020-07-07_15h24_32.png |
Replies:
Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 07 Jul 2020 at 4:38pm
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While I don't have a WD.. it sounds 'familiar'... One 'trick' that might work put another seal in. On the D-14s the diff/axle seal was 1/2" thick. Was told to install 2 replacements as they're only 1/4" thick. Old school math said they'd fit fine and well, they do !! and no leaks... I'm sure many will respond, lots of WDs out there ! Jay ------------- 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
Posted By: Boss Man
Date Posted: 07 Jul 2020 at 4:56pm
| You sure you didn't nick the seal putting it in? Maybe rolled the lip slipping it on the shaft? If the shims are leaking there's either dirt on them or the cover isn't tight enough. |
Posted By: jiminnd
Date Posted: 07 Jul 2020 at 9:10pm
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This maybe way off but on my WD I thought it was leaking and turned out the hyd pump was leaking and running down there, took me awhile to figure that out. ------------- 1945 C, 1949 WF and WD, 1981 185, 1982 8030, unknown D14(nonrunner) |
Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 07 Jul 2020 at 11:35pm
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If the seal and running surface is good, then the other possibility is that the shaft is not running true (either due to being not straight OR because the shaft is wandering around fore-aft or side-to-side)... and the other thing that will do it, is pressure building up inside the area. A plugged vent, or overfilled volume will do it... ------------- Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest. |
Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2020 at 6:29am
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Sounds similar to the seal I used on the last rebuild of the PTO box. I did use two seals and have not had a leak yet! On the shims I did coat them with a thin layer of gasket sealer to. The original ones I believe had paper and then steel shims. I agree that the oil could be coming from above? Some times it is hard to see oil leaks , But it sounds to me you did a pretty good job. I have had to do things over a cople times. Just kind of the nature of these old units! They will test you! We need pictures! Regards, Chris ------------- D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet. |
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2020 at 6:49am
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I'm not sure why there are two different part numbers for .010" and .005" steel shim but the bottom line is the paper and steel are alternated and never have a steel on steel shim or steel to housing or cover. part number for paper shims......... 70224655*, ** GASKET, stub shaft brg. cage, .005" (Paper) (As req'd) (Use to replace Triangular Shim's Prior S/N 24082) steel shims........... 70224656 *, ** SHIM, stub shaft bearing cage, .005" (Steel) (As req'd) (Use to replace Triangular Shim's Prior S/N 24082) Thicker steel shims 70224657 *, ** SHIM, stub shaft bearing cage, .010" (Steel) (As req'd) (Use to replace Triangular Shim's Prior S/N 24082) paper shim 70227227 *** SHIM, stub shaft bearing cage, .006" (Paper) (As req'd) (Use to replace Triangular Shim's Prior S/N 24082) steel shim 70227228 *** SHIM, stub shaft bearing cage, .005" (Steel) (As req'd) (Use to replace Triangular Shim's Prior S/N 24082) steel shim 70227229 *** SHIM, stub shaft bearing cage, .010" (Steel) (As req'd) (Use to replace Triangular Shim's Prior S/N 24082) ------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2020 at 6:53am
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And the tiniest little ding anywhere on the seal will cause it to leak. The rubber lip will have a tiny wrinkle in it. That's why it is best to use a seal installing tool or at least the correct size socket to tap on or a pipe as close to the same size as the outside diameter as possible. Sealer has to go on the outside diameter of the seal (I use permatex #1) if it doesn't have a coating on it already out of the package. ------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: IBWD MIke
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2020 at 7:22am
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As mentioned above, look up. I went through a pto dropbox and changed it out once. Still leaking. Hydraulic pump was next. Still leaking. Then a new valve. Still leaking. Turned out I had cross threaded the return line from the transport valve. That was a LOT of labor for what was an easy fix once located. Suffice it to say, I HATE OIL LEAKS! |
Posted By: cooz65
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2020 at 12:47pm
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First of all guys I appreciate the input. This is the first tractor that I've owned. My father-in-law gave it to my wife and I to help do horsey stuff. I've always worked on cars and understands the mechanics of things, but this is definitely something new to learn! I can for sure say it is gear oil leaking around the seal and shims. I had drained the entire bath, and refilled the front plug with about a gallon, enough to fill that PTO housing. I can wipe off the oil around the seal and visually see it seep out again. Same thing at the bottom of the shims. So that I can for sure confirm. I'll check the seal tonight and see if I don't notice anything. For those that used two seals. Did you have the inside seal pointing towards the front of the tractor, and the outside pointing towards the PTO. Both seals pointing towards the PTO? Lonn, you bring an interesting point about the shims and the paper. When I took it apart, I do not recall seeing any paper gasket. (could have missed that) It was simply the metal shims with the black coating that was peeling off the metal shims. So there is definite chance I need to get the paper gaskets on the housing and in-between the metal shims. Thanks Again
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Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2020 at 2:04pm
------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
cooz65 wrote: