add oil to final drive on a 1941 B
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=17252
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Topic: add oil to final drive on a 1941 B
Posted By: urbanweasel
Subject: add oil to final drive on a 1941 B
Date Posted: 27 Aug 2010 at 7:52am
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Thanks in advance for your help I have 41 B and my question is how do you add oil to the final drives I changed the transmittion / PTO fluid, and wanted to change the final drive oil Not sure where it goes in at or for that matter where it is? IF any body had a photo that would be great, Jeff |
Replies:
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 27 Aug 2010 at 8:10am
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The best thing might be to remove the pan from the finals and clean it. Then you can add the gear lube before bolting back up. The final drive housing is what the drawbar mounts to. The pan on the bottom, just inside the rear wheels, is what contains the fluid.
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 27 Aug 2010 at 9:47am
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The final drive pans have a fill hole, but not drain hole...crazy enough. You have to drop the pan to drain and clean out and then fill it up ------------- Charlie '48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD |
Posted By: GregLawlerMinn
Date Posted: 27 Aug 2010 at 10:21am
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I now use a suction tool to suck the oil out thru the fill tube (after the initial pan removal, cleanup, and new gaskets). Refill with 80 wt gear lube. ------------- What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers. Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2. With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC |
Posted By: George Davenport
Date Posted: 27 Aug 2010 at 3:18pm
| Refill with about 85W gear lube. George |
Posted By: Hartland Farm
Date Posted: 27 Aug 2010 at 8:27pm
| I have a 45 C that has the drains in the bottom, it is the only one I have ever seen. |
Posted By: firebrick43
Date Posted: 28 Aug 2010 at 9:45am
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You can add drains to the pans, it was done at times. Here is a link. http://www.worldpath.net/%7Ethompson/acb/final%20drives/pan.htm - http://www.worldpath.net/~thompson/acb/final%20drives/pan.htm Very good informational website. I wonder if it would be wise to find/seek out peoples web pages like this and host them on the allis chalmers forum. Over time people forget or the webhost shuts down and information is lost. If we could store them here(with their permission/blessing) it could remain a library of information for years to come? A good moderator could sort/approve of pages do ensure high quality information that applies just to AC and is not repetitive, IE no Here is my tractor type pages, but pages that truly have good knowledge like this fellows pages do? What do you guys think? |
Posted By: Bee
Date Posted: 28 Aug 2010 at 11:55am
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Was thinking a bottom drain would be another item to get sheared off if ya hit something hard. Must be some reason for not having the factory design them in.
------------- Bob, North Carolina 1949 B |
Posted By: firebrick43
Date Posted: 28 Aug 2010 at 12:48pm
Anything is possible, I guess if you regularly drive over stumps and boulders you might not want to do it. However at least on my CA, if the wheels are not spread way out they are very well protected by the wheel. I have a hard time seeing it happen with how I use my tractor. Don't assume the factory has your best interest or those of the mechanic in mind. Allis did a lot of things that were in their interest of selling a price point competitive tractor and additional manufacturing steps such as adding a drain could save a few dollars per tractor as it is several different steps to install one. Say they saved even just 2 dollars(I figure that to be resonable for the time period) . Over the course of selling 50,000 tractors that adds up to 100,000 dollars, a lot of money in the 1950's. Another cost saving point that wasn't in your best interest was the lack of a true regulator on the generator or a pressurized radiator(at least until 1954/55?). The allis light switch/generator cutout was not the best system available at the time, especially since others had switched to regulators by then. The flip point is that they are not absolutely necessary. You can drop the pan and replace the gaskets, or suction it out(I am never thrilled about this solution as you cant remove sludge). Just how much does that cost? I recall around 8-10 dollars for each gasket and an hour time. |
Bee wrote:Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 28 Aug 2010 at 3:54pm
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normally you will find the gear lube in the final drive case is 50-75 years old. I would guess if you take the pans off, clean them good, reinstall and add now 80-90 gear lube, you wll be good till about 2050... let the next guy worry about changing it again!! ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: Bill Long
Date Posted: 28 Aug 2010 at 5:26pm
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You know, We had that problem when I sold them but it was not that imortant. In fact, we had suction guns that drew the oil out and we replaced it.
However, that was over 50 years ago. Considering the fact that the last B was made in 1957 that means that the unit can be anywhere from 53 - 63 years old. Therefore, I think it is time that the oil pan should be cleaned and replentished with "state of the art" lubrication.
Unless you are certain that the oil pan was dropped and the oil changed recently I would recommend what Steve Ill says.
Take good care of my favorate Gentlemen.
Good Luck!
Bill Long
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