Given what I now know, I would not have run the engine at all after the governor blew.

Let's hope your problem is something less.

I checked the governor to carburetor linkage and it was okay.  Checking further, I believe the spring in the governor has been replaced with a spring that is too strong.  The weights in the governor were in good shape.  From an idle, a small increase to the throttle level at the governor will have big increase in the engine RPM.  It is like it was hooked up direct.  Turning the high idle adjustment has no effect.

I am going to try to find the correct spring and see if it corrects the problem.

Thanks for the tips and suggestions.

How big a job is it to replace the bushing in the cross shaft?  Does the front end, radiator, etc have to be removed?  It is a stage III.

The tractor is in good shape, runs good, don't use oil and looks like it has been well cared for.  I like to have my old tractors restored to perform as they did when they were new.

Bill

Dr Allis

Could it be that the pin in the fork lever is broken and allowed the fork to rotate on the cross shaft?

Engine off, throttle wide open and  carb link rod disconnected I can move the rod rearward (toward the front of the tractor).  With the governor rod half way, it will move both forward and rearward.  At idle the rod can be moved forward (toward the rear of the tractor).  There is no slack where the rod goes into the cross over tube.  The carb link rod is adjusted right.  Sorry, I can't send pictures.  The governor is not cobbed up.  Everything looks clean and good.  Everything moves with out binding.

The carb does have the adjustable lever on the throttle shaft.  It is tight and works as it should.

What's the possibility that the governor has been replaced by one say... from a Gleaner combine, or an industrial engine (like a generator)?

The tractor governor is a 'variable' speed unit... the other type is a 'fixed' speed governor, where the flyweight, leverage, and spring ratios are intended to provide proper gain and sag for operation at a set speed, with a narrow range ('tight governance').

For example:  Tractor governor will be active and controls speed from any setpoint from about 800rpm up to 1850 or so.  A generator will be active and controlling speed of a 4-pole generator from 1765rpm to 1825...

I am not a mechanic by trade.  I did grow up on a farm with green and red tractors in the 1950's.  About 20 years ago, I started to collect some of those tractors and restore/repair them.  This involved engine overhaul, transmission, started, generator, clutch, etc.  Mainly working on my own equipment, with some outside work and give advice to others about their tractors.  This said to say I am not an expert or novice.

When the tractor was purchased, the previous owner said that the throttle return spring was broken.  I knew nothing about the working of an Allis Chalmers and did not know that it did not have a throttle return spring.  He was a collector of antique tractors and did not know the history of this tractor.  After getting the tractor home and got manuels, I checked the carb to gov arm and found it needed adjustment.  After adjusting it improved from the 2nd groove to the 3d groove before it over rev.

Let me set this up again.  With the tractor at idle, moving the throttle down to the third groove, the engine will go over tack.  At that time, the control lever at the governor is in the right position.  The forked lever is all the way back against the thrust bearing.  This tells me that there is 2 possible answer to the problem.  First the spring/plunger is to long or the forked lever has been reposition on the cross over shaft (very unlikely since it is pined and looks to be in the right position).  The spring has  14 coils.  If someone can tell if this correct, it would be of great help.

As far as the governor being changed out to Gleaner, I don't know.  Everything in the governor looks good and matches what is in the manuals. As far as the weights, they don't even come into play.  Above idle, the engine is running with the governor pegged out.  The high idle adjust screw on top of the governor cover is all the way in but the control lever never gets up that high.  It could be possible that the weights may not be heavy enough to push the thrust carrier out against the forked lever.

What should I do?  Replace the weights first to see if that solves the problem.

The fork is fixed to the shaft and holding one you can't move the other.  With guts of gov out, spinning the gear the weights come out and push carrier and thrust bearing out.  Everything is there.  The gov is unable to overcome the spring in the gov to slow the engine down. 

What effect would there be if the weights had been replaced with lighter weights?

The bearing is on the end of the carrier and the fork lever is riding on the bearing surface.

Andy, when I got my tractor home I had to adjust the throttle to gov rod by repositioning the lever at the carb to where it would fit into the gov rod.  As you did.  After I got the right length, I tighten it and set the set screw.  It has been checked several times since and it had not moved.  Did you set it as stated in the manual?  Or did you make it shorter?

Thanks DrAllis

Thanks for the information.  I will tackle it in the AM.  Sure it works.

Bill

Went out after supper and made the changes.  It works fine.

Thanks DrAllis and all the others that had helped

Bill