WD45 Shifter Repair
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=171786
Printed Date: 23 Aug 2025 at 9:43am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: WD45 Shifter Repair
Posted By: Sanchez
Subject: WD45 Shifter Repair
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2020 at 3:37pm
The shifter on my WD45 was really loose, to the point where it would take two hands to firmly hold the shifter then try to get it into gear. I welded up the slot in the ball, then recut the original slot then added one on the other side. Then I cut a few new pins and drilled the top of the tower on the right for the second pin. What a difference, it slides nicely into gear one handed and has very little slop.     |
Replies:
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2020 at 9:10pm
| Agco has over size pins if pin hole is wornout then machine square to size needed. MACK |
Posted By: Sanchez
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2020 at 10:36pm
| Thanks Mack, the pin hole inside the tower on the left side is worn badly, the new pins I cut are much longer and with a nut on the outside its much better . I think if it causes trouble I'll likely drill the tower oversize and install a bushing to bring it back to a nominal diameter. |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2020 at 10:47pm
| Would like to see a hour meter from some of them old tractors. MACK |
Posted By: Sanchez
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2020 at 10:56pm
| I hear you on the Hourmeter Mack, I'm just getting acquainted with this tractor, I don't know much about its history but its been around the patch once or twice. It'll be interesting to see what other surprises it has in store for me. |
Posted By: B26240
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2020 at 6:13am
| I like your idea of drilling the pin holes all the way thru, with a nut to hold pins firmly. |
Posted By: Sanchez
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2020 at 7:07am
| The pin hole drilled all the way through served a few purposes, it supports the pin a little better with more meat along the shank, and it allowed me to back drill the hole on the right through the top of the tower to keep it in line. Unfortunately the rh hole is a little too low to allow for a nut on the pin due to the shape of the casting, although with a new pin in a fresh hole it will be quite some time before it becomes a problem. A couple of other things I want to address is the socket in the tower is pretty worn so the shifter sits a little too low, the proper way to address it would probably be to weld and machine the socket to correct size, but I'm debating using epoxy like JB Weld or A4 Metalset. I tried forming a washer to fit under the ball but it actually slipped down into the transmission after actuating the shifter a few times so I gave that up. I'd also like to try adding a bit of shim under the heads of the pins to keep them snug into the groove on the ball. |
Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2020 at 7:22am
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Sanchez, Very good documentation on this shifter repair. Maybe you looked at my thread on similar subject. When I talked to Bill at Sandy lake he mentioned his shop welds the bottom of the tower to repair the worn socket. I looked at this option and could not see how to easily weld and or finish if it was welded. So I proceeded to add weld to the exterior of the lower half of the ball on the shift lever. I did it pretty crudely and used a die grinder to smooth the welds. For the tower I was working on this really helped tighten up the slop and raised the ball to the correct height. Yes not a great fix on my part. But was worth a shot and seems to be working just fine for the little bit I use the tractor. I also added the double pins which as Mack and others have stated really helps too. Thanks for your report and pictures! Regards, Chris ------------- D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet. |
Posted By: JK in Pa
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2020 at 8:17am
| Mack brings up a very interesting thought. I have late 53 WD that I purchased in 1971. It was a one owner and was very well maintained. I have probably averaged 250 hours a year since I purchased it. Those hours add up. I have a question regarding the nuts on the shifter pins. Why nuts? They have to rotate with the shifter action! Good luck with your 45. |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2020 at 10:35am
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Just a brain fart of an idea, but what if you weld the ball up, make it round with no keyways, and drill a hole all the way thru. Sick a bolt in it on assembly and put a nut on the outside. Maybe a hole thru the shifter would weaken it some, but not having keyways could help strengthen it some. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: Sanchez
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2020 at 11:00am
| JK the nut on the left pin helps to reduce the wobble as the hole in the tower is really worn out. Its not tight just snug to allow the pin to rotate. |
Posted By: JK in Pa
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2020 at 11:35am
| I don’t think a bolt thru would work as shifter has to move left and right. The first thing I did to my late WD was remove the shifter and remove that curve the 45’s are noted for. Sure makes shifting more direct for me. Did the same thing to my 180. Made it easier for me to get on and off and gave a lot more feeling to shift correctly. Just my opinion. |
Posted By: Sanchez
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2020 at 2:42pm
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Chris The writeup and thread you put together on your shifter repair definitely gave me some inspiration for sure. Mine could very likely benefit from having the tower and fork assembly taken apart and repaired properly as you did, but I thought I'd start with the simple things first. I still need to raise the stick a bit, but the difference so far has been night and day. Thanks everyone for the help. Cheers Richard.
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