soaking frozen engine
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=171310
Printed Date: 25 Jan 2025 at 11:50pm
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Topic: soaking frozen engine
Posted By: nickia
Subject: soaking frozen engine
Date Posted: 20 May 2020 at 12:22pm
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what was the formula people are using for soaking a frozen engine acetone and brake fluid? been soaking with wd-40 but i think i need something with a little more kick to it? |
Replies:
Posted By: HoughMade
Date Posted: 20 May 2020 at 1:01pm
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If it's rust, skip past grandpappy's mix and go straight to Evapo-Rust. I tried every other combo for over 2 months on a siezed B, then I tried Evapo-rust and had the engine spinning in a little over 24 hours. I had the head off, but I suppose it can go in through the spark plug hole. After 24-48 hours, remove the Evapo-Rust, drain the pan, put some oil in, spray a light oil in the cylinders and crank it over slowly by hand, working it back and forth at first (I used a pipe wrench on the PTO). In my case it was loose. Pistons have still never been out and it runs fine with good compression.
------------- 1951 B |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 20 May 2020 at 1:01pm
| acetone and atf 50/50 |
Posted By: ac fleet
Date Posted: 20 May 2020 at 1:26pm
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oxy/acy torch and a lot of time. --working on a wd-45 right now--2 middle pistons down at bottom of stroke and 2 end ones up---got them loose but NOT the middle ones yet so its torch time on these. ---got many out that way, be careful how long you heat and use low setting keeping the heat moving around so everything gets heated even. As to getting them loose without taking the head off---I never found ANYTHING to work! ------------- http://machinebuildersnetwork.com/ |
Posted By: nickia
Date Posted: 20 May 2020 at 3:49pm
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thanks guys! im hung up on one cylinder soaking with wd 40 for a week now with the back wheel in the air rocking back and fourth im getting impatient |
Posted By: Rick of HopeIN
Date Posted: 20 May 2020 at 4:13pm
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Seems like you should remove head for a look anyway. Then you can spot bad rings, etc. Most of my experience is with stuck threads and can't say I have not had to finally drill out quite a few of those in the end. The ATF mix seems popular, I have used that but PB Blaster more often cause its handy. I have tried a lot of different stuff but hard to tell if one is better than the other. Seems like time is the main factor. I usually try to avoid use the torch as much as possible. I have a can of Kroil but only use for small jobs cause it is kind of hard to find. ------------- 1951 B, 1937 WC, 1957 D14, -- Thanks and God Bless |
Posted By: HoughMade
Date Posted: 20 May 2020 at 5:05pm
I agree with this. It's not that difficult and it makes the whole unsticking the engine thing easier. ------------- 1951 B |
Rick of HopeIN wrote:Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 20 May 2020 at 5:11pm
WD-40 is not a penetrating oil. Might as well pee on it. The acetone/atf mix works as good as almost anything in a spray can, or better than some. Good advice, too, on removing the head, then you can see fi water has got in through the exhaust...  ------------- Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need! |
Posted By: tractorboy
Date Posted: 20 May 2020 at 5:43pm
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Steve's formula worked for me. keith so.va.
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Posted By: nickia
Date Posted: 20 May 2020 at 6:49pm
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yes i have the head off ive done this before with a h-3 and had it freed up in a week by soaking and tapping on the piston with a block of wood and a dead blow each day |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 20 May 2020 at 9:15pm
| Acetone and Marvell Merical oil. MACK |
Posted By: 1947WC
Date Posted: 20 May 2020 at 9:18pm
| I use JB 80 |
Posted By: tomNE
Date Posted: 20 May 2020 at 10:37pm
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hydrogen peroxide has out performed anything else that i've tried. I do believe i tried everything mentioned above! ------------- AC from the start of my families farming career till the end! |
Posted By: frnkeore
Date Posted: 21 May 2020 at 1:41am
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I use Xylene, ATF & Stoddard solvent, equal parts. Xylene penetrates better than acetone. I pour or heavily spay it in. If you can see the bottom of the cylinder, what for it to get past the piston and your ready to go. The hydrogen peroxide sounds interesting, I may try that. ------------- Frank 1959 D17 Series I #24001+, '59 D14 '55 & '59 Ford 850 & 861 Ferguson TO 35 Deluxe, Oliver 70 and 5 more. |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 21 May 2020 at 7:07am
I normally don't chime in on the stuck engines any more. I have never been able to sit on my hands while some magic potion might work. That is just me and how I was made. After I remove the valve cover and check for stuck valves I then want to see with my eyes every moving part while holding it in my hand. This is what I normally find. This is my next move. 
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Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 21 May 2020 at 7:23am
More of What you can find when removing the head on a stuck engine that has set for a long time after getting water in thru the exhaust.   pits that are deep enough that the can not be faced.  that will only seal by fixed with new seats. 
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Posted By: Rick of HopeIN
Date Posted: 21 May 2020 at 8:17am
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Seems like the stuff we work on in Midwest tends to look like Dick L shows if ya dig into it. I think Roger Welsch stories of finding tractors in the weeds that would start right up got everyone speculating. Maybe in Nebraska that works but I suspect it is rare out there also. Of course that was 20 years back too. ------------- 1951 B, 1937 WC, 1957 D14, -- Thanks and God Bless |
Posted By: allisbred
Date Posted: 21 May 2020 at 9:21am
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Best I have ever used is “Kroil” by Kano. This stuff is not water based! It’s in an orange can so you know it has to be great!
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Posted By: TimNearFortWorth
Date Posted: 21 May 2020 at 9:33am
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I did a CA, the infamous "Okie Tractor" and had plenty of time to wait on it and room in the shop. Never knew how much stuff you can stuff under a dormant tractor in the shop over a year or more. Kroil initially but eventually just pulled the drain plug (no water) and started adding acetone/MM mix until each cylinder full and sure enough, one cylinder held the fluid level up and took a good 2 weeks to exit the pan, the other 3 ran by the rings pretty quick. No hurry but decided to pull the head and glad I did as that one cylinder had enough scale that even if it ate through it enough to be able to move that piston, was obviously gonna do some damage to rings when it broke free. If you do it with head off, rotating it will unseat the liners and you likely will be going backwards anyway so they need tabs bolted onto each hole to keep liners in-place if you go that route. The one cylinder with piston fully down was easy enough to clean up but how much crud made it's way into where it will damage the rings? She will get a rebuild maybe as new liners will be part of it but I will install the old gasket or a new one at some point and see if I can make her run. If not rebuilt, may just bolt up a 149 or 160 engine from one of the parts 15 I/II that have running engines, either will make that little CA bark for sure. Dick Lemon's plan is the best route IMO if you want it to run right. Worth noting; if freeing up something with dished pistons, gonna take plenty of spraying through the spark plug hole to get enough "juice" down around the entire piston(s) . . . .
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Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 21 May 2020 at 9:57am
| My brother bought a 40 Chev pickup off neighbor around 1973. It had been setting in barn lot for at least 20yrs. Engine stuck but dad soaked it with diesel fuel and before long it freed up and we got it running. That engine sat under a closed hood with an air cleaner and exhaust pipe/muffler. Has to make a huge difference,the "parked" conditions. |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 21 May 2020 at 10:59am
Your correct, it makes a big difference if water has not got into and engine. It is also a different reason for it to be stuck. A tractor that has never been exposed to setting outside is a total different story. In the early 1960's I freed up a 1938 Chevy 1 1/2 ton truck and hauled grain with it. I just used motor oil in the cylinders and freed up a couple valves using motor oil while pushing them down and pulling them up until they were free. It only took over night with the oil in the cylinders until they broke free using a screwdriver on the flywheel teeth. |
Posted By: HoughMade
Date Posted: 21 May 2020 at 11:01am
The point about how it sat is a good one. If rain went into the cylinders and sat there for years...good luck. Mine was in the humid basement of a barn, but otherwise closed up. Cylinders 2 and 3 had valves open enough that they rusted. As I said above, Evapo-Rust worked great. ------------- 1951 B |
Posted By: alan-nj
Date Posted: 21 May 2020 at 12:54pm
won't that make the tractor a bleached blonde? ------------- If ignorance is bliss, than happy days are here again. |
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 21 May 2020 at 5:28pm
MMO IS atf! Back in college, had an auto shop teacher who tested it! Can't remember which formulation, but definitely atf! ------------- Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need! |
Posted By: Rick of HopeIN
Date Posted: 21 May 2020 at 8:02pm
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I think ATF does most of the work in the formula I tried. The acetone was probably to allow it to soak in better. That is the advantage of Kroil, it is really thin, even kinda smells good. ------------- 1951 B, 1937 WC, 1957 D14, -- Thanks and God Bless |
Posted By: TimNearFortWorth
Date Posted: 22 May 2020 at 9:16am
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With the head off and adding the acetone/MM mix I could see it "swirl" and work, it actually "moved" for a couple minutes. It does separate so shake the mix well before adding and IMO, the MM Oil is a good "carrier" that does the lube work while the acetone helps break down the corrosion by getting into smaller gaps. MM oil also has the added benefit of not letting it rust in my case, since mine has been sitting forever with the block full and I wonder what the "mix" has done to bearing areas and seals . . . . .
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