um, good idea to say which orange you're talking about.....

LOTS of knowledge on the forum and I'm SURE there's 'tricks' to every install....

Jay

Do not force things together.  If something is binding, there is a reason.  
Keep the work area and the engine CLEAN!!!

Have a helper or two guide things into position.  Make sure everyone knows what they are supposed to do and when.

Good lighting and the proper tools should be on hand before reassembly.

Wear good quality disposable latex gloves. 

After the engine is reinstalled into the tractor, go over everything twice.  Make sure the oil filter is in place and undamaged.  Check engine oil level.  Fill with coolant.  Check all hose and pipe connections.

Recheck valve clearances.  Install valve cover.  Check belt tensions.  

Check and recheck the check list.

Not understanding the original question here!--- You can't install a block by itself! ---You have to put all the goodies in first, then install complete motor into whatever you have.

A little more info please. --Pix. are ALWAYS a plus for these guys on the forum. Tell us what you are working on and someone can walk you thru the whole process. Most of us have service/parts books for Allis Chalmers stuff, so just ask.

 Welcome, and no such thing as a stupid question. There is so much information here that can help you. The service manuals are good but probably wont tell you how to install the engine. The were written for service techs as a general guideline, with some steps to be understood.

Having the engine complete or very nearly complete on a engine stand really works the best. Have the pan on. the head on, basically all the engine components. including the clutch and pressure plate. Once that's done a couple things come to mind:

- Have the clutch aligned with the pilot bearing to assure engagement goes smooth.

- have a engine lifter 

- great if you have a engine leveler too

- install temporary guide bolts from the bell housing.

I may have some pictures if that would help?

Here is the engine being mated with the bell housing, note the guide pin. Since I did not have the frame rails on it was pretty easy. The engine leveler really helped in that last couple of inches too. The soft clamp was to help pull the block onto the stub dowels. Since I tend to work alone I use some "helpers".

Here is where I decided I needed more practice and pulled the engine again after the oil pressure was not where I wanted it to be. This might look more like what your doing if the tractor is still all together. It is tight on the right side at the steering joint.

This is actually the 6 spring clutch shown as the engine came out. Above was the re-install with 9 spring clutch in place.

Complete engine on stand with engine leveler supported by hoist.

Hope these may help you.

The WD45 is probably my favorite orange tractor.

Good luck with your install! Lots of folks here that are willing to help. Pictures are always good too.

Regards,

 Chris

 

Yes. As Boss Man noted too. The engine head is in place and using the bolts that hold on the valve cover to lift the engine. Yes I know they are not very big. Two of them are heavy enough to carry the weight of the engine fine. 

My explanation:

The drive shaft has to enter/ engage in two things: It first enters the splines of the clutch plate, then as the engine and bell housing mate the end of the drive shaft enters the pilot bushing which is in the back of the flywheel. (Sounds easy and simple but its blind and you can only feel your way through this portion of the assembly.) You have a big heavy engine moving around and a drive shaft bell housing that is stationary.

So you have two options. Align the clutch plate to the pilot bushing with a tool prior to assembly then tighten the pressure plate down, or use the book method and leave pressure plate loose which leaves the clutch plate loose, which allows you to work the shaft through the clutch plate and it then moves under the loose pressure plate, to allow you to align the pilot bushing and end of the drive shaft. I have not tried the latter But I am sure it would work.

I did use a alignment tool for the clutch plate to pilot bearing alignment. I just happen to have a nice 50 year old alignment tool that I did not throw away!

But It sounds very logical that you could leave the pressure plate loose and then rotate the engine and get under the tractor and tighten up each of the pressure plate bolts, after the engine was in place.

I have heard that a broom stick or something of similar size will work as a quick alignment tool also.

Just a precaution. Those pressure plate bolts are not very big (5/16 I think), be very careful when torquing them. Don't ask me how I know!:)

Regards,

 Chris

I lifted mine with the same type of rig using the rocker studs.

What happens if it is installed backwards?

 I dont remember how I installed mine? I may have went back and looked at a picture? Or I call Don!:)

Glad you got an alignment tool. You may not use it often but you have it!

Regards,

 Chris

Great that you got the block back in place in the tractor! Sounds like your on your way to getting it running again!

 Regards,

 Chris

If you haven't now is a good time to chase the threads in the block or where ever threaded fasteners are inserted. I use a little never seize on threads too. Clean the threads on the fasteners too. Probably all stuff you have done or realize.

Going by memory here AC-295 plug or is it Autolite 295??. Does that sound right? I cant remember crap any more.