1951 AC B - Any idea what model this is?
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Topic: 1951 AC B - Any idea what model this is?
Posted By: miketothesteve
Subject: 1951 AC B - Any idea what model this is?
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2019 at 5:42am
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I assume if there are enthusiasts and experts around, the answer will be yes. From some digging online, it looks like it could be a model B. I didn't know where to look for a model # until I was already back home, which was annoying because I was so close to the spot, even have the "Tractor No" imprint in one of the photos. I also didn't know it was an AC until I saw the name on the oil pressure gauge (think that's what it is). This was all last night. Here's the short story I have for this tractor. It is/was my wife's grand fathers. He passed a few years ago. The guess in the family, is the tractor has been sitting in the barn for ~10 years. The barn is now being torn down. No one wants the tractor. I've never owned a tractor, but would love to. That bucket would be very handy. And think it would be fun to work on with my son (when he's older). I also do not have a mechanical background, but I also don't think I'm an idiot on the matter. The left rear wheel is rusted through in some spots, and the tire is rotten, so it needs to be replaced. The other 3 seem ok. There is a definite oil leak. Hard to say if it's from the gasket around what looks to be an oil pan, or elsewhere. Didn't see any visible cracks in the engine. Also wondering what the bolts are for? (picture with arrows) There are two on either side. All backed partly out and loose. I assume to connect something to. But it looks like when they are out, you can see right into the transmission?? I'm guessing even if this thing cost me $0 to buy, the investment to get it working might not be worth it? Thoughts? https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/uploads/20257/20190926_184916.jpg" rel="nofollow - uploads/20257/20190926_184916.jpg
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Replies:
Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2019 at 5:56am
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Model B Have fun! ------------- Charlie '48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD |
Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2019 at 5:58am
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The bolts are the locations for mounting implements. Be careful, if nothing is attached don't screw them all the wall in as they might hit the flywheel if they are long bolts. ------------- Charlie '48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD |
Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2019 at 6:01am
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Yes you can see the flywheel when they are removed. Most of the time they are removed. I would leave the tractor as is, use it and have fun. You will learn a lot with this tractor. The hydraulics will only work with the clutch released. If you press the clutch, they stop (Thus the loader will not rise) ------------- Charlie '48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD |
Posted By: miketothesteve
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2019 at 6:08am
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I know pricing and availability with vary across the continent, but any idea what a wheel and tire would cost? (rear) Having never used a tractor, I'm quite unfamiliar with which pedals and levers are which. For the time being, if I'm going to move this thing, I figure I should know how to operate the brakes. Is that pedal controlled? If I recall, there was one pedal on the left and 2 on the right.
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Posted By: Rhoadesy_65
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2019 at 6:44am
You should buy an owners manual, they detail out how to operate the tractor and take care of it. The one on the left is your clutch, the two on the right are the breaks. there is two because one controls right side and the controls left side. pressing both will brake like you would normally expect. i typically leave the two brake pedals coupled together. ------------- Farmin' with 1981 7010 PD, 1983 6080, 1983 8010, Gleaner R42 in Darke County OH |
miketothesteve wrote:Posted By: miketothesteve
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2019 at 6:46am
| If I decide to take it, I'll most definitely get a manual. But I'm in a bit of a time crunch at the moment. It has to at least be moved out of the barn tonight. I figure I'll at least go do that, and see what she looks like when it moves. |
Posted By: mdm1
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2019 at 7:14am
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By all means get it. My first tractor was my DIL's Grandpa's tractor. Keep it in the family. Tires and rims can be spendy but you have 0$ in it to start. Look for a used tire and rim maybe. Good luck. ------------- Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK! |
Posted By: Rhoadesy_65
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2019 at 7:16am
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if its free, worst case is you will sell it, best case is youll have a good tractor and learn a lot. Either way a free tractor isnt much of a problem. ------------- Farmin' with 1981 7010 PD, 1983 6080, 1983 8010, Gleaner R42 in Darke County OH |
Posted By: miketothesteve
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2019 at 7:25am
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Well I figure if I decide to take it, I'm deciding to drop a couple hundred just to see if it will turn over. That's fluids, filters, gas, and likely a gasket. Should I bother looking to replace the wheel before I've done all that? Like I mentioned, it's done. When this thing gets hauled out, it'll be on a flat tire. I've read that this has a magneto that'll power everything once up and running. Would this mean I don't necessarily need a battery, and a jumper/booster pack would work? When/if i get to that point
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Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2019 at 7:55am
| A B is a great model to start with, they are very simple parts are plentiful and relatively cheep. I like to put all new Tires on a tractor once I get it running. its a light enough tractor that you can haul on a low car hauler trailer I've winched one with flat tires on with just a comealong. make sure you tie it down well. you can get new loop style replacement rims cheep and do away with the troublesome wedges. replace both together. put on new tires and you'll never have to mess with it again. |
Posted By: Grayray
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2019 at 8:12am
First, welcome to our orange family. You have come to the right place for advice and encouragement when owning/working of that nice model B. Congrats on your new acquisition (DON'T EVEN THINK ABOUT PASSING THIS UP.  ). Yes, this is a magneto, so it will run and function very well without a battery. You will need to crank start it though. Make sure you learn the proper way to use the crank, if you don't, you may end up seeing your favorite doctor. If done properly, it is easy. Congrats, and have fun.
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Posted By: Gary Burnett
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2019 at 8:18am
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Do the simple/cheap stuff like getting it started then replace the rim.Farmall 4 lug rim will bolt right on and sell cheap on ebay.Up and running with the loader easily a $1000 outfit. |
Posted By: ac hunter
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2019 at 8:23am
| A good cleaning will go a long way to make the tractor look a lot more appealing and not cost much. It may have 50 years of leaks and dirt on it. Getting it to run may not be that much of a deal either. Clean the tank, fuel lines, etc. Since it has a magneto you won't have to buy a battery. For not a lot of money you can probably at least get it started. It's a very good thing that it has been stored inside. As far as operating it it's just a bit of learning. You learned to drive a car I bet and you didn't know how to do that at first either. Good luck with your project and keep us posted as to the progress. |
Posted By: chaskaduo
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2019 at 9:45am
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YouTube vids on crank starting your B. Cold https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N43_dWx8Yrs" rel="nofollow - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N43_dWx8Yrs [TUBE]N43_dWx8Yrs[/TUBE] Hot https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uOMBzGhteHU" rel="nofollow - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uOMBzGhteHU [TUBE]uOMBzGhteHU[/TUBE] HTH
------------- 1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2019 at 9:54am
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I don't have an operator's manual, but in years past I have found several manuals at: http://grandpas-tractor-site.s3.amazonaws.com/manuals/ac" rel="nofollow - http://grandpas-tractor-site.s3.amazonaws.com/manuals/ac but they may not be there now. Try google or ebay. I do have a shop manual that will help with many details: http://geraldj.networkiowa.com/Trees/Allis-Chalmers-G-B-C-CA-Service.pdf" rel="nofollow - http://geraldj.networkiowa.com/Trees/Allis-Chalmers-G-B-C-CA-Service.pdf Gerald J. |
Posted By: Alberta Phil
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2019 at 9:59am
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Looks like it has a starter as I can see the starter bulge on the bellhousing in the last two pics. You could use a battery and jumper cables to start it or one of those booster packs. The starter is a 6 volt, but will handle a 12 volt boot for a while. It's obviously been used with 12 volts for a while as it has been fitted with an alternator. Good luck with at and have fun. I have 3 of those 'B's. Great little tractor and still capable of a good amount of work.
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Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2019 at 11:16am
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Make sure you check to see which is grounded, the positive or the negative. Positive is the default grounding for these, but due to the alternator it may have been changed over to Negative grounding. ------------- Charlie '48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD |
Posted By: Dusty MI
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2019 at 1:25pm
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When you put it outdoors, cover the exhaust with a can or something, to keep rain out of the engine. Good Luck, Dusty ------------- 917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express" |
Posted By: tadams(OH)
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2019 at 2:43pm
| It's got a alternator on it so it's been converted to 12 volts |
Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2019 at 9:28pm
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yep, that's a B. Alternator means it's been updated, probably to 12v negative ground, and a 12v battery will whip that engine into action in a heartbeat. Magneto means it'll hand start with a dead battery. Front end loader means you will stay younger, longer, and stronger. No power steering means that when the bucket is full, you'll need to be rolling either forward or backward to turn the wheel. Tractor brakes... on 'serious' tractors, have two pedals- one for each wheel. Usually, you'll only use brakes for steering tight, or to make forward progress when one wheel is slipping massively. A spinning tire needs only a little brake pressure to pull it's partner into operation. You might stomp on both brakes in the event that you need to stop, but most of the time, to slow down, just reduce the throttle. Since this is a B, you'll find that any other tractor of similar size and weight, will be a sissy... that's normal, because the B was an extremely powerful machine in comparison to it's competition. You'll also find that it's rather tedious to climb up onto when you're walking with a catch in your giddyup... but once in position, you'll be okay. The seating position might seem a little odd at first, but operate a WC or WD for a while, and you'll really enjoy the B. The bolts on the sides of the bellhousing are there to hold spare washers, just in case you'll need them. One of those bolts is an extremely rare, and commensurately expensive one, as it is wearing green paint. Green paint on tractors is ghastly expensive, and reserved only for those who bleed money. Because of the green paint on that bolt, it is automatically rated to five times' normal strength, and it's replacement cost is ten times' that of an ordinary fastener. I suggest you carefully remove, clean, and put that one on Ebay, and replace it, and the washer, with a plain Grade 5 fastener, and torque it to zero inch-pounds with first finger and thumb, and put the difference in a long-term investment. The two most expensive parts of an antique tractor restoration (regardless of the intended use) are engine and tires. If yours has bad tires, put good rubber and a good set of rims on it all the way around at your first fiscal opportunity. as for making it run, put the crank in it, and turn it by hand a few turns, just to see how it feels. If it turns over with consistent feel, then you've got a really good chance that it'll start up without any effort. Open the radiator cap for a look. See coolant? That's a good thing. Pull the dipstick... Is there oil? A little low wouldn't be surprising... but if the oil level is HIGHER than the FULL mark, then pull the pan plug, drain it, and observe for water or coolant running out with the oil. Grab a spare sparkplug, pull off one of the plug leads, connect the spare, and set it on the engine somewhere within sight of the crank. Open up the magneto grounding switch (that's the wire coming off side of the magneto going to one of the switches on the small console)... and pull the crank past TDC four times. ONE of those times, you SHOULD see a nice, white hot, snappy spark when the magneto coupler goes CLACK. If not, move the kill switch to the other position and repeat. If you have consistent compression and a hot spark, spray a shot of something flammable into the carb throat (you'll hafta pull off the air cleaner boot) and pull the hand crank a few times, see if it'll pop and vroom for a moment. Under the steering wheel, small looped handle on right by throttle is the choke. Loopy pedal-thing under your foot is the starter switch... press it, and the battery energizes the starter motor, cranking the engine. Doesn't matter if the magneto is on, or not, the engine will crank. Once you have that, it's time to clean out the fuel tank and sediment bowl. That picture shows yours as being deep reddish brown, so it's nasty. The fuel filter is probably there for a reason... so you'll be cleaning it a bit. If it were me, I'd nix that extra filter, replace the hoses (eventually, replace them with proper metal lines) and unthread the sediment bowl from the tank to get it ALL rinsed really well. I'd probably also drop the carb bowl and clean out any crud in there, and on the carbeurator fuel inlet, unthread that fitting and clean out the little catch-screen in the fitting (if there IS one). After that, add a little fresh fuel, make sure the carb bowl fills (and hopefully, doesn't overflow), and then fire it up. Left hand pedal is the engine clutch. There's a small looped-end lever down there... controls the
Power Takeoff. You'll probably need to press the foot clutch in, and
lift this lever to engage the power takeoff, in order to make the
hydraulic pump operate. You'll know when PTO is engaged, because the PTO shaft under the seat will start spinning. Keep your trousers away from it. Lever with loop to the right of your right leg is the hydraulic control valve. With engine running, and clutch released (but leave trans in neutral for testing), lift the lever... after a moment or three, the bucket should start to raise. Move lever to middle, it should hold. Down should drop it. Bit lever up on the loader arm releases the bucket. it's a 'trip bucket'... that means gravity makes it dump. To reset it, lower bucket to the ground, and back up... bucket will roll to horizontal position, and the trip latch SHOULD reset. Oil and cussing may be required to make it operate well. ------------- Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest. |
Posted By: Bill Long
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2019 at 9:48pm
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First, Welcome to the Unofficial Allis-Chalmers Forum. As you have seen you will get outstanding advice and information here. I sincerely hope you will keep the B. With my father I was fortunate to be there for the lifetime of the B. It is my favorite Allis Chalmers tractor. As said above you will find it to be a very basic, easy to work on. I sincerely hope you will be able to keep it. First, being a "family" tractor makes it much more desirable as a remembrance of your wife's Grandfather, second, if you have room it could be very helpful on your home grounds, thirdly it could bring you and your son closer together. We all hope you will keep it and get it operating again. You will be keeping history alive. We will all be available for any information you need. Let us know how it goes. Good Luck! Bill Long
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Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 28 Sep 2019 at 4:33am
Additions or subtractions in red...  ------------- Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need! |
Posted By: miketothesteve
Date Posted: 28 Sep 2019 at 9:45am
| So the tractor # I pulled off is B115302. Does that seem right? What year would this be? |
Posted By: miketothesteve
Date Posted: 28 Sep 2019 at 10:04am
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What size would the rim be? the tires on it have this for sizes: 10-24 on 9" rim, 11.2-24 on 10" rim |
Posted By: mdm1
Date Posted: 28 Sep 2019 at 11:39am
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According to Tractordata that would be a 1951 ------------- Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK! |
Posted By: miketothesteve
Date Posted: 28 Sep 2019 at 11:42am
I was even on that site. Didn't realize the B was a clickable link. I see it now. Thank you |
Posted By: miketothesteve
Date Posted: 28 Sep 2019 at 11:44am
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Also, as an update, I was there last night to move it out. The left rear wheel basically disintegrated when it moved. We dragged it out of the bar with the excavator, then lifted the whole tractor into the air with chains on the front and rear, and the excavator, and moved it out of the way. This will make getting it on a trailer much harder... |
Posted By: Boss Man
Date Posted: 28 Sep 2019 at 5:30pm
| Nice looking unit. I've put a 2 x 10 down and used a floor jack under a tractor to get it up on a trailer. Takes time an patients but for what you paid I'd do it again. |
Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2019 at 12:46am
Actually, if the tire disintegrated, that makes life easier... you don't hafta fight them off. Use a sawzall with a metal-cutting blade to cut the bead enough to remove whatever's left, and it'll roll nicely on just the rim. Back a trailer up to the REAR of the tractor. Place a 4x4 on the ground behind the tractor's 'bad' wheel, and atop the trailer deck. Place a ramp behind the OTHER tire. use a come-along to winch it up onto the trailer. The 4x4 will serve as a 'rail' for the tire-less wheel... it'll climb on fine.
------------- Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest. |
Posted By: miketothesteve
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2019 at 5:41am
Wasn't just the tire, it's tire and rim. Once it's jacked up, I can probably pull both off with my hands. Think I might try strapping a log or 6x6 to the empty hub. Cut angles on the ends, and use it like a ski. |
Posted By: mdm1
Date Posted: 30 Sep 2019 at 7:47am
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Hey post some pics of how you end up doing it! ------------- Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK! |
Posted By: miketothesteve
Date Posted: 30 Sep 2019 at 6:37pm
Will do. I have a bunch more pictures, but I need to be at a pc to upload to reformat them. Size is too large to upload directly :S |
Posted By: miketothesteve
Date Posted: 01 Oct 2019 at 6:30am
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Another update now that I'm at a computer. I was with the AC every day from Fri thru Sunday. Friday we moved it, which was interesting on its own. We started with pulling it out the barn with the excavator (which was a massive machine). As soon as it started to roll, it was obvious the wheel was not going to make it. We got it out of the barn just enough to wrap chains around the front and rear, loop them around the teeth of the excavator, and lifted the ol' AC off the ground and moved it out of the way. Saturday; couldn't stop thinking about what the tractor # might be, and tire and wheel sizes were because I forgot to check on Friday. So off the boy and I went Saturday morning, 30 min. one-way, to spend 10 minutes there getting that info, just because I wanted to. Sunday; I went back on my own with some action items. Figure out the state of the left tire/rim, remove if possible. Bring some boards to slide this sucker on when loading day comes, and make sure the exhaust was covered. The exhaust has one of those flappers, but not sure it would prevent water getting in if it were windy. I also removed whatever the bucket/trailer was on the back-end. Had no plans on keeping that. So now the pictures.. Jacked up and tire removed uploads/20257/20190929_140900.jpg" rel="nofollow - uploads/20257/20190929_140900.jpg Rotten Wheel (I also figured out the puzzle of removing those chains). There was only half a rim left once removed. And holes in the inner tube. So the chains came off, and the tube emptied (liquid filled). To make moving it easier. The bolts actually came off fairly easily. Not sure the wedges (I think that's what they are called) are still usable. uploads/20257/20190929_140907.jpg" rel="nofollow - uploads/20257/20190929_140907.jpg Bolt and Wedge: uploads/20257/20190929_Wheel_Bolt_Wedge.jpg" rel="nofollow - uploads/20257/20190929_Wheel_Bolt_Wedge.jpg More daylight pictures of AC: uploads/20257/20190929_145726.jpg" rel="nofollow - uploads/20257/20190929_145726.jpg uploads/20257/20190929_145732.jpg" rel="nofollow - uploads/20257/20190929_145732.jpg uploads/20257/20190929_145738.jpg" rel="nofollow - uploads/20257/20190929_145738.jpg uploads/20257/20190929_Right_Side.jpg" rel="nofollow - uploads/20257/20190929_Right_Side.jpg uploads/20257/20190929_Right_Wheel_2019-10-01_06-19-18.jpg" rel="nofollow - uploads/20257/20190929_Right_Wheel.jpg uploads/20257/20190929_Back.jpg" rel="nofollow - uploads/20257/20190929_Back.jpg uploads/20257/20190929_Left_Inner_Hub.jpg" rel="nofollow - uploads/20257/20190929_Left_Inner_Hub.jpg Current plan is to try and get it home this weekend. Few questions I have: Any idea what the rim size would be, 8 or 10"? I tried measuring the right, and I think I'm measuring 10" from the outside of the rim, one side to the other. I'm not seeing anywhere upfront to crank start, I also don't have a crank. So using that as an option to test if it'll turn over is a no go. Should I just top the oil up to test if it'll turn? Should I put a drop or two of oil in the cylinders (remove plugs)? What do you think is the better option for moving; original plan of "ski" on the left hub, or remove the right wheel and move it on the hubs (resting on 2x8's)? What's the preferred method of photo uploads, like I've been doing with links, or having actual images?
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Posted By: mdm1
Date Posted: 01 Oct 2019 at 7:18am
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The wedges as you called them are eccentrics. They hold the rim on the hub. There is a definite way to reinstall them. If you are going to use them make sure you get the proper rim. I like the looks of the tractor. Should be fun to have. Can you pick it up with the excavator and put it on a trailer? One thing someone should have told you at the beginning is to take sack fill it with money and throw it at the tractor. (That's what most of us do when you start a project) Have fun with it!! ------------- Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK! |
Posted By: mdm1
Date Posted: 01 Oct 2019 at 7:23am
 Here is a pic of the tractor
------------- Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK! |
Posted By: miketothesteve
Date Posted: 01 Oct 2019 at 7:33am
By pick up, do you mean manually lift it? Haven't tried, not sure how heavy it would be? Does it look like something two people could lift if removed?
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Posted By: miketothesteve
Date Posted: 01 Oct 2019 at 7:40am
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post removed.
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Posted By: mdm1
Date Posted: 01 Oct 2019 at 8:04am
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No I meant can you pick it up with the excavator. Will the excavator lift up the entire tractor? I had a hard time getting rid of 2 rims with tires that held air. $100.00 for the pair. ------------- Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK! |
Posted By: miketothesteve
Date Posted: 01 Oct 2019 at 8:12am
Excavator would've been able to lift it and put it on a trailer, if I could have gotten a trailer there, while the excavators were there. They are no longer there. The trailer I have lined up does not have a winch, and the owner seems a little leery of attempting this with one wheel and a come-along.
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Posted By: miketothesteve
Date Posted: 01 Oct 2019 at 8:16am
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So my options now are to find a rim, which i can't seem to find locally. Cheapest online is roughly $200. And probably a 2 week wait time. Then my buddy and I could trailer it home. Or I can pay a towing/hauling company $200 to move it...
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Posted By: Wayne180d
Date Posted: 01 Oct 2019 at 9:29am
| Not to be smart but do you know someone who has a B or an extra tire and rim you could borrow to just get it home. I have brought some home that look worse than that and used a 2 x 12 to lay the wheel center on and slid it right on the trailer with no problem. That tractor is very restorable |
Posted By: miketothesteve
Date Posted: 01 Oct 2019 at 9:33am
But you are being smart, literally. I welcome any and all idea's here. But I did already try this. No such luck.
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Posted By: Gordy
Date Posted: 01 Oct 2019 at 11:20am
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I'm not seeing anywhere upfront to crank start, I also don't have a
crank. So using that as an option to test if it'll turn over is a no go.
Should I just top the oil up to test if it'll turn? Should I put a drop
or two of oil in the cylinders (remove plugs)? Looks like that tractor has pump driven from front of engine which gives it live full time
Hydraulics very good but prevents hand cranking. ------------- “If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough” |
Posted By: HoughMade
Date Posted: 01 Oct 2019 at 11:27am
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Top up the oil, sure, put some oil or WD40 through the spark plug holes and use the electric starter to crank it over, and if no battery, put in neutral, pull the PTO lever up and put a pipe wrench on the PTO, turning it clockwise. This is just to see if the engine is free. Make sure the mag is on kill...you don't want it starting like that. ------------- 1951 B |
Posted By: miketothesteve
Date Posted: 01 Oct 2019 at 11:45am
I've got two switches on the little box up front, left and right. Do you know which is the kill for the magneto? I suspect the right. Do you know which direction the switch needs to be flipped?
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Posted By: miketothesteve
Date Posted: 01 Oct 2019 at 11:48am
Just had another idea; I've got a 24 tall x 16 wide rim with a larger tire on it. Bolts up similar to a car tire. There's enough room in the empty cavity of the rim to put it over the hub, and strap the rim to the hub. The hub would like just end up scrapping the inside of the rim, but it would roll.
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Posted By: mdm1
Date Posted: 01 Oct 2019 at 11:49am
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follow the wire back from the magneto to the switches. Someone will chime in on how to test a switch or do a google search. ------------- Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK! |
Posted By: HoughMade
Date Posted: 01 Oct 2019 at 12:00pm
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Unlike a battery coil ignition, a magneto is killed when the switch is closed providing a stright path to ground. Ot just put a jumper on the lug coming out the side of the mag to a good ground...or heck, just leave the plugs out. That's probably the easiest just to see if the engine isn't stuck. ------------- 1951 B |
Posted By: Alberta Phil
Date Posted: 01 Oct 2019 at 6:47pm
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Seeing you have it blocked up, remove the spark plugs, squirt a little oil in the cylinders, put in third gear and see if you can roll the engine over by turning the hub of the jacked up wheel. It should roll over if it isn't stuck. |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 02 Oct 2019 at 8:54pm
| It is possible that the points in the mag may need cleaned to make it spark after setting that long.Just don't think it's junk if it don't spark |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 03 Oct 2019 at 6:55am
There is NO WAY anyone can tell which switch is which, unless they were the one that wired the tractor up. Remove the kill switch wire from the magnet and it doesn't matter. Without KNOWING how things are wired, I wouldn't crank the engine over with anything hooked to the charging system, battery or ignition. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: miketothesteve
Date Posted: 06 Oct 2019 at 5:13am
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This is how we got it moved. That was a car hauler with a hydraulic winch on the front. We expected it to slide on top of the 12ft 6x6, but instead it dragged the whole thing with it. Once it was on the trailer, we jacked it up, and swapped 12ft of 6x6 for 1ft. Reversed the process to remove, except we tied the tractor to a tree, and drove the trailer out from under it. https://photos.app.goo.gl/8QSVX2nyFzcGXHMC8" rel="nofollow - https://photos.app.goo.gl/8QSVX2nyFzcGXHMC8 |
Posted By: mdm1
Date Posted: 06 Oct 2019 at 7:11am
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Looks like you got it done. I would love to have that loader. Keep us posted. ------------- Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK! |
Posted By: miketothesteve
Date Posted: 06 Oct 2019 at 3:59pm
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I can't believe how much frame is attached just for the bucket. It makes sense just never realized it till I took more time to look at it. Need to source some oil filter and get to work on cleaning out fuel lines and components. Confirmed today that it turns over with a battery. |
Posted By: miketothesteve
Date Posted: 08 Oct 2019 at 5:20am
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So the choke in the carb doesn't want to move, so I'm guessing the carb is gummed up or something. I've never worked on a carb before, but I've seen the occasional video (Mustie1 on YouTube is a favorite of mine). What's the best way to approach cleaning this? I do not have a parts cleaner bucket to submerge it in, or an ultrasonic cleaner. I've had a mechanic tell me that a carb cleaner could do more harm than good? Also had someone at carquest suggest submerging in Seafoam. Hot Seafoam if I could manage it.
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Posted By: miketothesteve
Date Posted: 09 Oct 2019 at 5:36am
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Removed the carb last night and have it soaking in a bath of seafoam. Drained the old fuel mostly. There was a lot more than I thought, as I tried to siphon it on the weekend and couldn't get anything. With the line disconnected from the carb, I drained it from there, and had about 5L of dark brown fuel come out.
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Posted By: Rhoadesy_65
Date Posted: 09 Oct 2019 at 5:44am
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when i did the farmall h carb a few years ago i used crc braklene, a wire brush, and a screwdriver/pick to clean the carb. I recommend alteast getting a gasket kit for the carb. For the H i bought a complete rebuild kit and worked slow and careful. I had never done work on a carb but the tractor ran when done. ------------- Farmin' with 1981 7010 PD, 1983 6080, 1983 8010, Gleaner R42 in Darke County OH |
Posted By: DaveKamp
Date Posted: 09 Oct 2019 at 7:22am
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Soaking the whole thing as one piece in SeaFoam might be enough to make it operable, but the best way to do it, is to carefully disassemble, clean, and then reassemble with a carb-kit. The most difficult part is usually getting some of the screws (like the throttle and choke plate screws) and mebbie a jet or two, and the emulsion tube out... patience and gentle care is necessary. My guess is that your toolbox doesn't include a bead-blasting cabinet, but a carbeurator-cleaner 'dip tank' is a gallon-paint-can size thing that most auto stores will have on their shelves. They include a little basket that fits inside. Once the carbeurator is disassembled, you can place the parts in the basket, lower them in for a good soaking. Once out, I spray out the orfices with aerosol carb-choke cleaner, then I follow up with air hose to clear it all off. once all cleaned, I give it a really close inspection. Most of the time, the float bowl will still be useable. A good test is to pour some Acetone into a cup, and submerge the float in an inverted position. If you see air bubbles coming up, there's a leak that requires the float must either be fixed, or replaced. If no bubbles, and it's not crushed or mangled, it's good. Typically they get crushed either by mishandling, or if the fuel system gets water into the bottom of the bowl and it freezes, crushing the float. Oftentimes, if I find a crushed float, I inspect the carb casting, as it's likely there's a crack or two in there somewhere. I use a 'master' kit... not just the jets, but also the throttle
plate seals (usually felt, with a little metal press-in retainer). Also note that SOME carbeurators have a catch screen integrated into the fuel inlet adapter fitting... if you see one, look closely at it... and spray it out good if there IS one there. Most of the time, if a guy does the disassembly with care, photographs everything before, and reassembles it in reverse of assembly, it turns out fine... but remember- when you're doing all this carb work, there's a tank, sediment bowl, and fuel line feeding it. It pays great dividends to remove the lines and sediment bowl, clean out the tank, disassemble and clean, then reassemble and then replace the cork gasket in the sediment bowl. You have a dandy machine there, Mike- get it started and running, and get a pair of good wheels on the back, and it'll do tasks that keep you young for decades. ------------- Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest. |
Posted By: miketothesteve
Date Posted: 09 Oct 2019 at 8:03am
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This is the approach I want to follow, as close as is feasible. Oddly enough, I'm having a hard time finding those part cleaner can's around here. Closest I've found has been a gallon jug of the cleaner (no strainer), @ $70. I just had my generator into a "Classics Rebuild.." shop for a warranty issue. I asked them some similar questions about cleaning the carb.. and in short, they have an ultrasonic cleaner I can use. So I'll likely give that a try as well.
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Posted By: chaskaduo
Date Posted: 09 Oct 2019 at 10:07am
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2 Allis carb rebuild vids for ya. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hVraAXnh5jk" rel="nofollow - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hVraAXnh5jk https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tKTc8GI1aCk" rel="nofollow - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tKTc8GI1aCk You'll love this little beastie.
------------- 1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp |
Posted By: miketothesteve
Date Posted: 10 Oct 2019 at 12:19pm
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Keep forgetting to confirm which type of carb it is. From the pictures and my memory, I think it's a Zenith. But want too be sure before I order a kit. Since I'll have to pay and wait for shipping, I'll likely get a rebuild kit. Also removed the sediment bowl and everything that comes from the fuel tank. I've never seen fuel turn into a sludge (or molasses). the bowl was filled with it. It looks like there was some sort of screen or filter. Online it looks like there are two options, one that just looks like a screen, and one with plastic around the outside, and straight through the middle. (Been looking on DJS. Will likely order soon once I finalize some things). Pulled the trigger on ordering a rim today. Still need to source somewhere to remove the tire from the half-rim. And a tube. Is it possible to remove the fluid from the other tube?
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Posted By: Rhoadesy_65
Date Posted: 11 Oct 2019 at 5:34am
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Yes I would remove the fluid. Theres likely a local tire shop that does in field repairs on farm equipment. Call them up and ask them to mount the tire and drain the other one. thats what i did for great grandpas H, bought tires and had them come to the house and mount them. ------------- Farmin' with 1981 7010 PD, 1983 6080, 1983 8010, Gleaner R42 in Darke County OH |
Posted By: miketothesteve
Date Posted: 11 Oct 2019 at 5:37am
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Going to be ordering from DJS. Trying to confirm which parts to order. Which sediment bowl? https://stores.djstractorparts.com/sediment-bowl-assembly-allis-chalmers-b-c-ca-ib-rc-d14-d15-d17-d19/" rel="nofollow - https://stores.djstractorparts.com/sediment-bowl-assembly-allis-chalmers-b-c-ca-ib-rc-d14-d15-d17-d19/ https://stores.djstractorparts.com/sediment-bowl-assembly-r2404-abc092/" rel="nofollow - https://stores.djstractorparts.com/sediment-bowl-assembly-r2404-abc092/ Do I assume the sediment bowl comes with screen and gasket? In addition, getting the carb rebuild kit. Pretty sure it's a Zenith carb https://stores.djstractorparts.com/complete-zenith-carburetor-repair-kit-b-ib-c-rc-wc-d10-d12/" rel="nofollow - https://stores.djstractorparts.com/complete-zenith-carburetor-repair-kit-b-ib-c-rc-wc-d10-d12/ And gasket set because I know I at least need some of these now: https://stores.djstractorparts.com/allis-chalmers-complete-engine-gasket-set-b-ib-c-ca-rc/" rel="nofollow - https://stores.djstractorparts.com/allis-chalmers-complete-engine-gasket-set-b-ib-c-ca-rc/ Anything else I should absolutely be getting?
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Posted By: chaskaduo
Date Posted: 11 Oct 2019 at 10:13am
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Zenith carburetors have a round tag, approximately the size of a US dime, riveted to the body of the carburetor. Original equipment carburetors will have two sets of numbers stamped on this tag. The outer circle will be the O.E. part number (ie Allis Chalmers, GMC, IHC, etc.). The inner circle will be the Zenith number. Aftermarket carburetors made during this period will have the Zenith part number only on the tag.  Rachel also shows this at 7:07 to 7:13 in the first video I have previously listed for you. HTH
------------- 1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp |
Posted By: miketothesteve
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2019 at 6:55am
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It's a Zenith Carb with both rows of #'s on the tag. I just ordered a rebuild kit and the other items mentioned above. Yesterday I was able to put a new wheel on it after having a original tire mounted on a new rim and tube. Then I towed it with the Polaris and moved it into the garage for the foreseeable future. But I've had something nagging at me the last few days. When I originally got it home, I found out there was nothing in the rad. I only had good intentions when I put a gallon of coolant in. I'm fairly certain that since that time, I've had a drip coming from the bottom of it, near the rear of the oil pan somewhere. Maybe a drop every few minutes. Since this occurred to me, I've not loosened the oil plug to see if there's water or coolant in the oil, but I'm guessing there will be. I've read other posts off this, and the culprit is typically sleeve seals or o-rings? I just went through the manual hoping to get a visual of where or what they might be referring to, so I can have a mental plan of attack in my head. Anyone help me out with that? I suspect I should try and fix this issue before I try starting it? I'll repeat again that this is all new to me.
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Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2019 at 8:33am
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If you do have coolant in the oil, the FIRST thing to check is the cheapest thing to fix. There are 3 core plugs in the top of the head, visible once the valve cover is off. They rust from the bottom up and will let coolant leak by, draining into the oil sump. Best to knock them all out, and replace them for a couple $ each. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: miketothesteve
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2019 at 9:23am
What would these plugs look like? And where could someone buy them?
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Posted By: mdm1
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2019 at 9:36am
 They are the 3 round plugs in the pic. Pull the valve cover off. You can get them at any parts store. Just take one with to get the right size.------------- Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK! |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 18 Oct 2019 at 7:34pm
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Your local auto parts store would call them "freeze plugs". ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: miketothesteve
Date Posted: 21 Oct 2019 at 5:50am
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For these freeze plugs, would coolant seep by upward? I removed the valve cover late night on Saturday, and believe I found the freeze plugs. Each had a little oil pool in it. Are they kind of beneath/inbetween the rocker arms? I was also able to tell someone else has removed the cover before, likely for some sort of leak. In addition to a gasket, there was a bunch of that squeeze tube gasket all around. I peeled all that off for now. Since I have new gaskets on the way. Between Saturday and Sunday I also drained all the coolant, simply to save it, and stop it from leaking into the engine. I drained approximately 5 L. Sunday, I figured I'd drain the coolant from the oil, and started with unscrewing the oil plug just enough to allow water or coolant to drain by. I was able to get a slow stream, and let it go for an hour and it kept coming. So I tried to loosen it a little more, and well, guess what happened...I unthreaded the whole plug and a monsoon of coolant came pouring out. I got it threaded back on before my pan overflowed. Replaced the pan with a 20L pail, and drained the whole thing. All in, I drained about 10L of fluid (oil+coolant) from the engine.. If you've been following along this whole time, you'll recall me saying I put a quart of coolant in a couple weeks ago. Since 5L or ~1.25 quarts came out, I assume the point where it's leaking into the engine is lower (this assumes that coolant is evenly dispersed from top to bottom).
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Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 21 Oct 2019 at 7:30am
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Mike, I am just catching up on your B project. First its a family tractor! Hope folks are still around to remember it doing work around the farm? Second you have done a great job getting it home and up on 4 wheels again! Your doing the right research and gathering parts as needed. The water in oil thing means more investigative work. As they say its easier to find the leak BEFORE you tear the engine down. Very low pressure on the cooling system will allow you to find the water leak. And it could be several areas as mentioned. freeze plugs, head gasket, or worse case cracked block. Hope its not the latter. Enjoyed the thread. You have a good looking tractor! Regards, Chris
------------- D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet. |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 21 Oct 2019 at 7:55am
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With a full radiator( water to the top of the core) you might have a quart of water above the level of the core plugs. gravity will let it drain down, but I would think the oil collected in the plug would be displaced by the water???? Once the coolant level gets even with the core plug, it wouldn't leak anymore, unless the radiator is brought up to working temp, and system is pressurized. At this point, I would plug the fill hole on the radiator and connect regulated air pressure to it. 7 PSI would be plenty to test for a leak in any of those plugs. If that doesn't show a leak, I would drop the oil pan, and do the pressure test again, to see if coolant comes from around the outside of a cylinder sleeve, or comes down from inside the cylinder from a head gasket leak. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: miketothesteve
Date Posted: 21 Oct 2019 at 8:59am
This is what I would've thought as well, and it's coolant (green) as well. So should be even more noticeable. When I took the cover off I ran out of rags so I didn't wipe the plugs off to see for sure. But I knew I'd be back in there anyway. Wondering if when I tested it to see if it turned over, if I moved some oil around maybe. And I assume this mean (with regards to the freeze plugs) coolant would seep upwards.
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Posted By: miketothesteve
Date Posted: 31 Dec 2019 at 12:17pm
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Happy holidays everyone! Just thought I would post an update. It had been awhile since I was able to get any real time with the ol' B, but over the holiday's I had a chance to dedicate some time. I removed the head and replaced the head gasket, tidied up the carbon build up and cleaned up the old grimy oil. Just a few minutes ago, i had finished putting the oil pan back on with a new gasket. I removed it because I suspected the old gasket was leaking, and I wanted to clean-up as much of the old oil from the pan as I could. I'm glad I did, it was pretty sludgy. Added some new oil, and compression tested the cylinders. The first test before anything was replaced, had 3 cylinders at 90psi, and one at 80. They are now all around 125psi ( +/- 3 psi). So all in all, I feel like I'm making progress. Next chance I get, I'll check to see if coolant is still leaking into the engine. Otherwise, I'll move on to spark.
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Posted By: chaskaduo
Date Posted: 31 Dec 2019 at 1:25pm
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Was there coolant in the oil pan? 125 psi is a good compression reading. Sounds like you are making headway. I would shoot some penetrate into the cylinders to lube the walls and coat them until your ready to fire her up. Some guys would even recommend tranny fluid. Keep poking at her, we are all here for ya. ------------- 1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp |
Posted By: miketothesteve
Date Posted: 09 Mar 2020 at 5:32am
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Good morning everyone, I'm back again. Had taken a little break over the winter, and didn't poke around too much on the ol' B. Before she was moved in the garage, we quickly tested for spark, and there was none. Now that there are fresh fluids in it, I wanted to thoroughly test. Initial result was no spark. Tested the grounding on the magneto to find out the on/off switch to ground it seems bad: regardless of the switch position I measure 0 resistance using a multi-meter, across the two points. Disconnected the grounding wire, tried again, still no spark. So all I've done so far has been remove the mag (took some pictures to remember the position of everything), cleaned the points on the cap, and tried to test the magneto. To test the magneto, I connected the meter to the brass tab on the red coil(?) at the top of the meter, and the other to ground. I used a drill to spin the magneto from the back, and can see on the measure the voltage fluctuate. So this tells me something is happening. But that's about the extent of my knowledge with a multi-meter. What's the best approach to testing/troubleshooting the magneto? It's a Fairbanks Morse, Type FM X4B16A I was also turning it in the direction with basically no resistance. Looking at the back, might be called the armature, it was spinning counter clockwise. If someone could tell me the firing order of the cylinders from left to right, I could figure out which way it's supposed to spin.
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Posted By: ac fleet
Date Posted: 10 Mar 2020 at 12:52pm
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The dogs have to catch, get hard, then snap over center! sounds like you turned it backwards. Spark occurs after hard snap of the impulse coupling. ------------- http://machinebuildersnetwork.com/ |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 10 Mar 2020 at 1:08pm
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You gotta turn it clockwise to make it spark. You really shouldn't turn it over without a plug and wire in each hole, with the plugs grounded to the case of the mag. It gets done a lot, but can lead to arching inside the cap, which can ruin a good cap. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: miketothesteve
Date Posted: 10 Mar 2020 at 5:46pm
| I just had some new plugs arrive today and put it back together to see if it was just a matter of cleaning the points. Seems like a no go so far. I had the plug touching the frame. Should I try it touching the mag casing? Will it make a difference? |
Posted By: Oniondip
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2021 at 10:15pm
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Hey everyone, Im new here, my name is Jeff. Mike is my brother-in-law, and I got offered this project and without question I took it. This is my grandfathers old tractor, so Im pretty excited to get it up and running. Im jumping right into it though, and I hit a point where I need some help from the experts. I am following up with the no spark. I checked the p-lead for continuity to ground and I had it. So I played with both switches on the "dash" and no change. I disconnected the wire, the wire remains open in every switch position. Mike already gave me the handover to say the switches weren't working, so that is confirmed. The p-lead is the problem. So I tore the cap then cover off the mag to verify the condition of all the parts and everything seems in good shape. The actual workings of the mag is where I need help with. I understand the ground will kill spark ie. killswitch so p-lead needs to remain open for spark to be delivered. I removed the screw holding the coil, condenser, and p-lead wires to the points and checked each component for a possible case ground/short. The red with coming off the coil is the culprit. So here is the question, before I spend money on a new coil can a expert chime in and agree with this troubleshooting. Or am I wrong and this red wire should case ground? The next question is the gears inside the mag dont have any timing mark from what I can tell. Do I just mark with a sharpie a easy reference or is there a better way? Because marking it with a sharpie only put it back to how I took it apart, but it may never have been timed correctly from the start.  |
Posted By: Mikez
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2021 at 10:27pm
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welcome Jeff. Take your question and start a new post in the farm equipment section. You will get a better response that way. Good luck
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Posted By: Oniondip
Date Posted: 04 Feb 2021 at 6:01pm
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Im back with an update: After talking with Steve NJ at BB Custom Circuits I was able to make a decision on what to do with my magneto and not getting good spark. I purchase a new set of points and condenser from his business and I now have a nice strong spark. I put the carb back on the tractor and started cranking it with not much luck. I had to turn the magneto hard to one direction, then slowly turn it 1/16" at a time until I found the position it began to react in. Eventually, after many many pulls on the starter it woke up! Exciting to hear it knowing this is the first time in 10+ the tractor has been running. I took some shortcuts just to make sure it would fire up. So before I start working it I have a list of things I need to do. I put the bucket on and did a functional of everything I could think of. Alternator is putting out atleast 14v (slow build, and I took the meter off when I hit 14), hydraulics are working nice and smooth, lifted a entire bucket full of wet snow, PTO was working. I dont know how the kill switch is wired, but the switch seemed dead when metered, however it actually functions as it should. So my list of things I still need to do is rinse the gas tank and coat it, it has some light rust inside and lots of sediment. Replace the old sediment bowl and filter with new ones (especially after running sediment through them). And the governor seems like its slow, but then overacting, which is causing a huge surge in RPM for a few seconds until it sorts itself out or sometimes stalls. Here is the idle video. Time to get this old girl out doing some work soon! [TUBE]utQBWFWWy4Q[/TUBE] |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 04 Feb 2021 at 7:45pm
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congratulations............. motor sounds good ! ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 06 Feb 2021 at 9:45pm
It will sound even better, when it's running on all 4 cylinders! ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: Oniondip
Date Posted: 07 Feb 2021 at 1:50pm
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Well I got some more work done after that first start. I dialed in the mag a bit better, and found a spark plug wire was grounding to the oil filter. I also knew one other wire was loose, and the insulation is torn and the wire has been compromised. I will be ordering a set of plug wires from Steve at BB when I finish my list of items I need to repair/replace. So in that video I had a mis-fire, and the tractor wouldnt go to high RPM. RPM issue is governor related. I freed it up as best I can without removing it, which will be the next step when I have a day to work on it. New video with alot smoother run. [TUBE]22vrKMw5yIo[/TUBE]
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