WD stuck in 4th gear
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=164632
Printed Date: 25 Aug 2025 at 5:29pm
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Topic: WD stuck in 4th gear
Posted By: Bigsprings 45
Subject: WD stuck in 4th gear
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2019 at 3:42am
| Could some explaine how to get a WD back into neutral and what would cause it to get stuck in 4th gear. Also , their seams to be hydraulic fluid leaking out the bottom by the shearpin to the PTO. The arms wont raise either. Any help would be greatly appreciated. |
Replies:
Posted By: B26240
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2019 at 6:29am
| If your shift lever moves around with no effect it jumped out of the shift rail, if so remove snap ring and washer from the top of trans cover where shift lever goes in. pull shift lever out, looking into trans useing flashlite use long screw driver to move offending shift rail back into netral. reinstall shift lever and washer/snapring. The cause of this is wear to mostly the end of the "ball" on the shifter. As for the arms not going up have you checked the oil level in the hyd compartment using the dipstick? |
Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2019 at 8:07am
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If this shift lever does this often it may need the knob on the end built up with weld. There are dimensions on here some where for that knob. I have built the last one up in the front and back to have a little more material. The leak on the PTO shaft could be several things. clean the area around and above good and see where the fluid is coming from. Could be the PTO output shaft seal, but might be coming from a leak above that too. By the way that is not a shear pin. Kind of looks like it should be but its not. There is no safety shear pin in that PTO system. On the no lift: yes check fluid level i the hydraulic reservoir (has the short dip stick). Again several things could be the problem. Did it work recently?? Service manual may help you also. Good luck with the old WD! We need some pictures too! Regards, Chris ------------- D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet. |
Posted By: Bigsprings 45
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2019 at 9:44am
| Thank you. I have another WD out in the back that my dad had when I was a kid. I remember it doing the same thing but was to young to know what he did to fix it. I went out and looked and the snapring is gone and shifter is just pushed in. Unfortunately this tractor has a locked up transmission and has sat for over 2o years with no start up. My brother pilfered the carburetor off of it some yrs ago and the motor is now stuck to. So it very important to me to keep this one up and running in good shape. I honestly appreciate all the input. I will post pictures soon. |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 27 Sep 2019 at 11:00am
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There is no "shear pin" in the PTO shaft. The pin connecting the output stub to the shaft, is a case hardened shoulder bolt, not at all meant to shear. Anything powered off the PTO, needs its own shear pin or slip clutch to protect the gearing in the bottom of the transmission of the tractor. I wouldn't worry about a small leak in the output shaft on the PTO, until you are ready to drain the transmission flush it and refill it. Once it's drained, it's a pretty straight forward job of replacing the seal.
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: Bigsprings 45
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2019 at 5:39am
| I wanted to take the time to say thank you for all the responses. I appreciate the knowledge and experience you all have. And have shared. Yesterday. My son and I worked on the hydraulics of the old 45. I plan on pulling the shifter out today. I really need to get it back in neutral so I can use it again. Ive got an 8N ford ive been trying to get fired up after 5yrs of not running and I just bought this wd to help out. Now with it stuck in 4th i have nothing until Its fixed. Wish me luck and thanks again. |
Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2019 at 6:23am
The only thing I would add is that there are pins on the side of the housing where the shift lever goes in. There are slots on the side of the shift lever to keep it from turning. Be sure not to drop those pins , when you are aligning the rails in the transmission. Also, while talking about those pins, oversize pins are available if you would rather go that route, rather than building up the shift lever. If you take the pins out for any reason, I (strongly) suggest you put something in the bottom of the housing to catch them if you drop them. I have used a rag or steel wool. Anything you can fill the hole with, will work.
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B26240 wrote:Posted By: nella(Pa)
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2019 at 6:23am
| Rreleave all the pressure on the trans. gears, I lock out the foot clutch, then take a long screw driver and aline all three shifting forks where the ball on the end of the shifter fits in, then put it back together and it should work. Weld the ball on the shifter if it is worn and this happened too often. |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2019 at 9:17am
Oversize pins are for fitting to a worn hole in the tower and will not help the shifting problem much, if the 3/8 inch ball on the bottom of the shifter is worn too much. For temporary use, putting it back together with what you have, make sure you shift in a "square" pattern, just as the diagram shows. Don't try to shift in a straight line from 2nd to 3rd at angle . ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: ac fleet
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2019 at 9:34am
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One of mine will do that, I found that the shifting procedure is very critical on these, shift slow and wiggle in neutral before hitting the next gear, making sure your in neutral.---kinda hard to xplain, but could show you what I mean. The balls do get worn really bad and after 10 million shifts in their life, ya they need a little weld on them. PTO seal is probably worn out, mine is, they say it's not a big deal to change but I am not able to get under there to do the job. -- On this one I dont use anything but the drawbar so it's not a problem. ------------- http://machinebuildersnetwork.com/ |
Posted By: Bigsprings 45
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2019 at 10:02am
| It was clearly my fault. I was pulling some treees I had cut down one at a time and they were heavier then I anticipated. When going up hill the tractor bogged down for just a few seconds. I pushed in on the clutch and tryed to go into reverse. Ended up putting it on 4th gear because I went to fast. Now it wont come out. The shifter wiggles from side to side but wont pop out of 4th. Iam a little.worried about messing things up if I pull the shifter out. But guess thats my only option. Thanks.to all again. |
Posted By: nella(Pa)
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2019 at 3:30pm
You won't mess anything up, just take the shifter out of the tower, aline the forks with a long screwdriver put it back together and you will be good to go. Don't forget to take the pressure off of the gears so you can move the shifting forks into alignment.
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Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2019 at 3:39pm
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It is very simple. If It's on a hill, chock the wheels and make sure it can't roll. I usually either snap the hand clutch ahead of lock the foot clutch. When you look in, you will see two of the three notches aligned. The center one will be in the forward position (4th gear). Simply put a long screwdriver (or something similar) and move the center into alignment. Replace the shift lever and you will be amazed at how easy it is.
If you can remember to keep pressure down on the shift lever, it will not come out. |