AC Rototiller
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=163510
Printed Date: 17 Sep 2025 at 4:13am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: AC Rototiller
Posted By: bigcreek
Subject: AC Rototiller
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2019 at 9:06am
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I recently acquired a 6' AC rototiller but the problem I am having is it keeps shearing the shear pin. I am using it on previously worked ground that is soft and it still shears the pin. Happened 3 times in a row. I can rotate the drum by hand both directions easy and it is coming all the way around and rotating the pto shaft when I do no matter which way I turn it. No hangups. I am using it with a 100 HP tractor, international 856 to be exact. The tiller is very heavily built, too heavy for my ford 800. The furthest I went without shearing was about 50' but the other couple times it sheared the pin after about 5' or 10' of use. Any thoughts on this one? Thank you, Josh
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Replies:
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2019 at 5:45pm
Post a picture of the tiller, I don't know that AC made one that big... ------------- Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need! |
Posted By: bigcreek
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2019 at 7:31pm
| Well I went out and took some pics of it but wasn't able to upload them for some reason. The model is D 680 if that means anything to you. It isn't like a regular rototiller that has bent tines, the tines on this one are straight. I just don't know the proper name for it? |
Posted By: Krazy Karl
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2019 at 8:58pm
| What grade bolt are you using. Grade five should be the bolt. I've used those cheap no grade bolts and brother inlaw has also used on misc things and they dont work. One time he said he put one in on a silo blower and it sheared just turning it on |
Posted By: bigcreek
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2019 at 9:19pm
Well heck maybe that is my problem. I used a couple cheapos and a regular shear pin so Ill go hunt down a grade 5. I figured being in soft ground it wouldn't matter but Im probably wrong especially after hearing you say your BOL sheared one just turning the blower on. If I put a grade 5 on it and it still shears Im welding that sucker and going for it. 
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Posted By: truckerfarmer
Date Posted: 09 Aug 2019 at 9:40pm
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If the hole is wore, that will shear them. ------------- Looking at the past to see the future. '53 WD, '53 WD45, WD snap coupler field cultivator, #53 plow,'53 HD5B dozer Duct tape.... Can't fix stupidity. But will muffle the sound of it! |
Posted By: john(MI)
Date Posted: 10 Aug 2019 at 8:37am
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How fast are trying to go. That seems like a lot of hp for that tiller. ------------- D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446 |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 10 Aug 2019 at 12:18pm
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Too much HP at too fast a speed and trying to till too deep the first pass will break the pin. An egged out hole for the shear pin will help too. The shear pin is there to save the equipment from being tore up if it is over worked. The slowest that tractor will go, is too fast to till anymore than a couple inches at a time. Make multiple passes on the low side of first gear. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: Gary Burnett
Date Posted: 10 Aug 2019 at 5:16pm
As well as I remember seeing one it appeared to be a tiller to work up already worked or plowed land,not to do initial tillage.
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DiyDave wrote:Posted By: bigcreek
Date Posted: 10 Aug 2019 at 8:37pm
| Soon as I get a grade 5 and try that Ill let you know how it pans out. There is a fair bit of slop in the shear pin hole so maybe that is contributing to it. I had the tractor in the slowest speed it has L1. Ill keep ya posted. |
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 10 Aug 2019 at 9:02pm
I wouldn't weld it, if its a modern unit, the drive line parts are available. If not you may be able to adapt a shear bolt yoke to fit. Or drill out the hole, to the next size up, and use a lower grade bolt to compensate, for the bolt being bigger. You DON'T want to run a tiller, without any protection, for the PTO of the tractor...
Another possibility, is that the drive chain and sprockets are worn, and there is enough slap in the chain, to hit the chain case, and kink things up, for just long enough to snap the bolt, particularly if the shear bolt hole is egged. A simple testis to turn the PTO shaft backwards, by hand, till the tines just start moving. Then reverse the direction you turn the PTO shaft, while holding onto ta tine and see how much free play is in the chain... I would think that anything over half a turn would be excessive, and would bear further examination. Some tillers have an adjustment to take the slack out of the chain, normally a bolt with a lock nut that sticks out of the chain case, which tightens up a shoe, which takes the slack out of the chain... ------------- Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need! |
Posted By: bigcreek
Date Posted: 11 Aug 2019 at 4:09pm
| Thank you DIYDave for the info and suggestions. I will do as you suggested. |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 12 Aug 2019 at 6:44am
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Unless you have a 3 fluted core drill, I wouldn't drill it to the next bolt size. It should be drilled a 1/32 under and reamed to finish size or you will start out with slop in the hole for a bigger bolt. There isn't a drill out there that won't drill oversize of the drill, except where it breaks out at the bottom of the hole. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |