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F2 433I Hand Primer

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=160261
Printed Date: 28 Apr 2024 at 11:12am
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Topic: F2 433I Hand Primer
Posted By: FREEDGUY
Subject: F2 433I Hand Primer
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2019 at 6:36pm
First off, I hope everyone had a great Easter !! Got out to the farm today for Easter dinner with the family myself and after the dinner and egg hunt for grand daughtr and assorted nephews, I went up to fire-up the hibernating engines; 180 gasser,XT 190 and the F2. Combine fired right up(we hit 69*today Smile) and ran for 15 seconds and died. We have been having this issue for going on 2 seasons now but it will start fine unless it sits for a month or 2. On a hunch, I climbed up and attempted to pump the primer and pretty sure I discovered the problem-the primer leaks like a sieve!! I did get it started as well as the 2 others started and looked up a part # for a seal in the primer but the parts book says we need a 3 piece combo? Part # 74063231? 
I googled that # and saw it wasn't horribly expensive in the grand scheme of parts $$ but was just surprised there just isn't a simple seal. One of the "vendors" stated that the above # has been updated ??



Replies:
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2019 at 6:45pm
My F2 and 220 do the same. Long time parked you better pump primer first if you want it to stay running
. Put new primer assembly on 220,didn't change it. Just pump the the primer and move on. Mine don't have the external leaks but something is off.


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2019 at 7:57pm
My 860 cotton stripper has the 2800 engine, and I have the same problem. I tried to use mine last season, and it just sprays out around the primer pump plunger when I pump it, and has no resistance at all. I was actually about to post about it, but I'm glad you did. I'll be interested to see a solution. 

I looked in the 860 parts book, and it just shows the primer assembly, which I found for sale here for $250,
http://www.minnpar.com/listingmltp.asp?PartNbr=74024229" rel="nofollow - http://www.minnpar.com/listingmltp.asp?PartNbr=74024229
But after looking  up your part number, it seems like that plunger with the seal might fix my problem, even though that piece by itself isn't listed in the parts book for my machine. Surely the pumps aren't that much different on the 2 engines, being as they are probably about the same age. 


Posted By: FREEDGUY
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2019 at 8:04pm
Originally posted by CrestonM CrestonM wrote:

My 860 cotton stripper has the 2800 engine, and I have the same problem. I tried to use mine last season, and it just sprays out around the primer pump stem when I pump it, and has no resistance at all. I was actually about to post about it, but I'm glad you did. I'll be interested to see a solution. 
 
That is EXACTLY the symptoms-sprayed every where but was able to feel "some" resistance. Got it fired up though,just didn't care for the 10-15 seconds of cranking, usually(and it will now) pop off within a rev and a half of cranking.


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2019 at 8:07pm
Right, my 2800 always starts just as soon as you hit the key, unless like you said, it's been sitting a while. When I tried to prime mine, it didn't do any good, just made a mess, and I still had to crank on and off for a long time, which I didn't like. 


Posted By: old farmer
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2019 at 8:18pm
If you’re primer is like a 185 tractors, you can buy the rod with both the primer seal and seal for rod which stops the fuel leaking out. My son just got 1 from Willian Equipment in Charlotte MI for right at 40 dollars, about 30 bucks cheaper than the pump guys could sell one for.


Posted By: FREEDGUY
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2019 at 8:26pm
Old,they are the same part #'s LOL!! Like I said, not outrageously priced, just surprised an individual seal can't be had.


Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2019 at 8:57pm
Freedguy, sounds like your problem is return fitting in top o pump is plugged with rubber from governed flex ring coming apart. Time for a pump rebuild.
Needing primed after setting is the check valves inside the primer, not the seals that squirt fuel on you when trying to prime it.      MACK


Posted By: tbran
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2019 at 9:07pm
its a long story but Agco got the pn's in stock finally and will start shipping mon,  about every dealer was running out of the hand primers. Thanks to the parts guys for working this out.

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When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..


Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2019 at 9:14pm
I replaced my primer on my XT due to a leak. Appeared to be the original primer although I cant confirm. New Agco primer works well. I never looked into a rebuild kit. Primer should only be used due to a fuel filter change or the tank is out of fuel. There are other issues if it has to be used other than that. My XT has set for 3 months before and fires right up.

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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD


Posted By: FREEDGUY
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2019 at 9:35pm
Originally posted by MACK MACK wrote:

Freedguy, sounds like your problem is return fitting in top o pump is plugged with rubber from governed flex ring coming apart. Time for a pump rebuild.
Needing primed after setting is the check valves inside the primer, not the seals that squirt fuel on you when trying to prime it.      MACK
 
Thanks Mack, the pump was rebuilt less than 150 hours ago for that very problem, our mechanic wouldn't let us pop the glass ball out though, told us to remove the line and remove debris on "as needed basis". It was a LOOOONG harvest that fall!!


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2019 at 9:37pm
So the fuel pump needs rebuilt you're saying? 

Also, Freedguy, what do you mean by the "glass ball? I don't know much about diesels. 


Posted By: FREEDGUY
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2019 at 10:01pm
Are the check valves something that can be done by a do-it-yourselfer with basic tools or are there special tools/torque specs involved? Thanks


Posted By: FREEDGUY
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2019 at 10:11pm
Originally posted by CrestonM CrestonM wrote:

So the fuel pump needs rebuilt you're saying? 

Also, Freedguy, what do you mean by the "glass ball? I don't know much about diesels. 
 
Mack is referring to the main pump that has an internal plastic part that disintegrates inside of the pump and sends black plastic pieces up the fuel lines. I think the pieces are too big to enter the injectors so they end up in the return line that has a glass ball in a fitting that acts as a check valve(I think). Once the plastic pieces obstruct the ball, the engine coughs,labors,SMOKES like crazy and finally dies. It won't restart until the plastic chunks are removed. That's my understanding of the issue,hopefully one or more pro's can explain better Embarrassed !


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 21 Apr 2019 at 10:18pm
Originally posted by FREEDGUY FREEDGUY wrote:

Originally posted by CrestonM CrestonM wrote:

So the fuel pump needs rebuilt you're saying? 

Also, Freedguy, what do you mean by the "glass ball? I don't know much about diesels. 
 
Mack is referring to the main pump that has an internal plastic part that disintegrates inside of the pump and sends black plastic pieces up the fuel lines. I think the pieces are too big to enter the injectors so they end up in the return line that has a glass ball in a fitting that acts as a check valve(I think). Once the plastic pieces obstruct the ball, the engine coughs,labors,SMOKES like crazy and finally dies. It won't restart until the plastic chunks are removed. That's my understanding of the issue,hopefully one or more pro's can explain better Embarrassed !

That is very interesting… My engine smoked like a freight train at the beginning of the season, but only at full throttle. Any less than that and it quit. But it was blue smoke though, so that would be oil, not fuel. After a day or two, the smoke went away completely. I think that’s a whole other issue though, not related to this fuel pump.
The engine always runs great. Of course, now that I say that, it will probably start doing as you say, coughing and laboring. Haha


Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2019 at 6:50am
When the weight retainer comes apart, they pull down then die. After pressure drops in pump, they will fire back up.       MACK


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2019 at 2:24pm
Mack, what is the "weight retainer"? I'm trying to better visualize this all, and have been studying the pump page of the parts book, but don't see anything like that. Maybe Agco has another name for it? 


Posted By: lentsch
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2019 at 4:34pm
Retainer, governor weight- part number 74061611.

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WD,D15,190XT,7000,8010x2,7060,8070


Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 25 Apr 2019 at 7:29am
Just an FYI these primer assemblies are RoosaMaster/Stanadyne. So if your local pump shop can get parts, may be an alternative to Agco dealer if they don't have. If your injection pump was just rebuilt, I wonder if your return line got blown out? The primer assy is very easy to rebuild if you get all the internal parts. 

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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!


Posted By: Alvin M
Date Posted: 25 Apr 2019 at 7:38am
I get mine from IH same as AC costs less


Posted By: lentsch
Date Posted: 25 Apr 2019 at 8:13am
I replaced my hand primer and filter with an electric pump and dual filter setup -works great, better filtering and no more leaks. Did that to my 190XT and 7060, also installed a check valve in the fuel line.

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WD,D15,190XT,7000,8010x2,7060,8070



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