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C engine crank wick leaking

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=159971
Printed Date: 25 Sep 2024 at 7:22am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: C engine crank wick leaking
Posted By: 49WF
Subject: C engine crank wick leaking
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2019 at 4:01pm
I put in a new ring gear,clutch, crank seal and rebuilt the oil pump. Assembled and ran, getting drips of oil out of bell housing. Tough to see in bellhousing. Appeared to be crank seal, new seal was felt. I ordered a cork seal and split again. My crank seal is dry, wick on crank is wet. Does anyone offer a new wick or can I eliminate the wick. Pilot bushing is not wet, it is new also.

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More than I need



Replies:
Posted By: 49WF
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2019 at 4:15pm
I just thought about my comment on eliminating wick, didn't think that one through. How much is to much oil, it is already making a mess in bellhousing.

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More than I need


Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2019 at 5:25pm
Plug the crankshaft hole and use a sealed bearing if you don't want a bit of drip, every once in awhile. My WC is plugged with a sealed bearing.


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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF


Posted By: chaskaduo
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2019 at 5:37pm
Maybe Dick L would know the sealed bearing info for the B & C?

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1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp


Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2019 at 5:48pm
Originally posted by CTuckerNWIL CTuckerNWIL wrote:

Plug the crankshaft hole and use a sealed bearing if you don't want a bit of drip, every once in awhile. My WC is plugged with a sealed bearing.
 Charlie has it: Although it more than that simple. The C tractor only uses a pilot bushing which a dab of grease will last a long time.  Plug the crank hole. Put a speediSleeve on the spiral groves on the crank. Use a seal housing and seal from the D10/12/14/15 tractors


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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY


Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2019 at 5:57pm
It's been a while, but I may have had to bore the flywheel for that bearing, since it just had a bushing in it too. Wacko


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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF


Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2019 at 6:06pm
Originally posted by chaskaduo chaskaduo wrote:


Maybe Dick L would know the sealed bearing info for the B & C?
The flywheel would have to be sent to a machine shop to bore it out for a sealed bearing. Not worth the effort. Those bushings will outlast the person now driving the tractor with the wick hole plugged.   


Posted By: 49WF
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2019 at 7:13pm
Is the wick hole pressurized? 1/8 pipe plug is to small. Called around for a pound in plug, no luck. If is not pressurized I might put in epoxy

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More than I need


Posted By: littlemarv
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2019 at 7:54pm

If you want to plug the hole,  just insert a tapered cork after pulling the wick out. 



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The mechanic always wins.

B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H


Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2019 at 9:00pm
Originally posted by Dick L Dick L wrote:

  The flywheel would have to be sent to a machine shop to bore it out for a sealed bearing. Not worth the effort. Those bushings will outlast the person now driving the tractor with the wick hole plugged.   

 I drove to a machine shop every work for day and ran a lathe of some sorts most of the time.
 It didn't cost me anything, but a few minutes of my time after hours Wink


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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF


Posted By: oldways
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2019 at 9:14pm
I put in a cork with a little Indian Head gasket shellack on my B and WC. If you want to replace the bronze pilot bushing and your closer to a case IH dealer it's the same as a Farmall C I believe. I'm 15 min from IH dealer and hour from an Agco dealer.

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1 Corinthians 1:18 1969-190xt-III. 1966 190xt gas. 1966 190xt Cab. 1948-G. 1937-WC unstyled. 1950-B. 1951-CA. 1966-D17-IV


Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2019 at 9:54pm
There might be some details in the shop manual: http://geraldj.networkiowa.com/Trees/Allis-Chalmers-G-B-C-CA-Service.pdf" rel="nofollow - http://geraldj.networkiowa.com/Trees/Allis-Chalmers-G-B-C-CA-Service.pdf

Gerald J.


Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 14 Apr 2019 at 11:18am
Originally posted by CTuckerNWIL CTuckerNWIL wrote:

Originally posted by Dick L Dick L wrote:

  The flywheel would have to be sent to a machine shop to bore it out for a sealed bearing. Not worth the effort. Those bushings will outlast the person now driving the tractor with the wick hole plugged.   


 I drove to a machine shop every work for day and ran a lathe of some sorts most of the time.
 It didn't cost me anything, but a few minutes of my time after hours Wink


Great! I own a custom mold shop started in 1997 that was once a three man shop as well but most people don't.

Went down to a one man and myself when I bought these in 2002.





Posted By: chaskaduo
Date Posted: 14 Apr 2019 at 11:30am
Nice setup, I would live in there. Thumbs Up

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1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp


Posted By: pcheffernan
Date Posted: 24 Sep 2023 at 6:32am
The wick is there to lubricate the pilot bushing. It is supposed to leak oil on it. Old school technology. They quit doing this many years ago, and now lubricate with grease. Probably not as effective but less of a mess.



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