Farm Equipment - D17 timing

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D17 timing

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=15826
Printed Date: 04 Feb 2025 at 10:06pm
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Topic: D17 timing

Posted By: Creek Jenkins
Subject: D17 timing
Date Posted: 28 Jul 2010 at 8:48pm

Okay I'm chasing the gremlins in my D17. Dang thing just doesn't run smooth. So I thought if I threw a timing light on it I might be able to see if the dist being worn was throwing the timing around.

The manual says look for the timing mark in the hole on the RH side of the torque tube......okay. No hole. Do I need to drill.........?

Thought there was a post previously that said to look in the bottom inspection hole but that doesn't seem right to me - seems pretty akward to do with a light. Dang manual show pics of every other dang part but not the timing mark/hole.
Whats up with that?

Anyway......help anyone?

Cheers,

Creek the Slow

Replies:

Posted By: Brian G. NY
Date Posted: 28 Jul 2010 at 8:57pm

There should be a hole on the RH side of the torque tube at the bell housing end right where the flywheel is. It would be a rare D-17 if that hole wasn't there!

There is a picture of the hole on page 54 of the Gasoline D-17 section of the A-C service manual.

Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 28 Jul 2010 at 9:00pm

half way down the torque tube close to the engine - they all have them! No need to drill.

Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 28 Jul 2010 at 9:08pm

it is between the 2 bolts that connect to the frame rail.

Posted By: Creek Jenkins
Date Posted: 28 Jul 2010 at 9:16pm

Went back out to the shop to have a look. My manual has the power director on p 54, I must have a different manual.

I looked at the torque tube thingy again....I think my loader frame might be covering it. Krap.

Shined the timing light at the front pulley, the keyway shows up pretty klear. It does bounce around a bit, but not bad. Seems like it is missing once and while though - like every 5th or 6th time around at idle seems like the light doesn't fire. Krap.

thanks,

Creek

Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 28 Jul 2010 at 9:18pm

Have you checked the distributor shaft? If it has any play in the distributor body bushing, your timing will never be constant and it will be impossible to accurately set the points.

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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford

Posted By: Creek Jenkins
Date Posted: 29 Jul 2010 at 8:54am

Brian -

Yep, there definitely is play in the shaft, it has about .008" play which I think is the max. That prob is contributing to the uneven running. But it also has other problems -

Carb icing - the carb body gets really cold at the manifold connection, frost shows up if its 50F or below. Not sure how I could fix that. Last nite I started it up and adjusted the carb, she was running pretty good for 3 or 4 minutes, then it started to miss and the idle adjust screw did absolutely nothing. I could turn it all the way in and it made no difference.

Manifold studs - also noticed last nite one or more of the manifold studs is leaking a bit of antifreeze. Just had the head done last fall, didn't think the studs went all the way into the water jacket. Could the head be cracked?

Bottom end clunk - I'm hearing a soft clunking coming from the oil pan area at idle. Oil pressure is low after the engine warms up, this can't be good. I put new rod bearings in last fall but left the mains alone as the rods looked pretty new. I'm thinking the last guy that overhauled her did the same thing - maybe the mains are tired. I've got to split it this fall and change the rear seal, might as well do the mains as well. Hopefully that will fix the low oil pressure and clunking problem.

cheers,

Creek

Posted By: Matt MN
Date Posted: 29 Jul 2010 at 9:06am

You should not have antifreeze coming out of the Manifold studs?? Unless the old ones have been drilled out and they were drilled way too deep and into the water jacket. Have you pulled out the spark plugs and looked for antifreeze on the plugs?? If you say it runs great with a cool engine but runs bad when the engine warms up it might be a head gasket? Also antifreeze in the oil can ruin a brand new set of bearings in no time. I would look closely at it.

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Unless your are the lead horse the scenery never changes!!

Posted By: BobHnwO
Date Posted: 29 Jul 2010 at 9:59am

couple manifold studs go into the water jacket,put sealer on threads,carb ice will form if air is very humid especially if throttle shaft is loose and suckin air.

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Why do today what you can put off til tomorrow.

Posted By: Creek Jenkins
Date Posted: 29 Jul 2010 at 2:30pm

I think it was the upper stud farthest to the rear that was seeping, maybe one of the front ones as well. I'll pull'em out and seal them.

Never thought about the throttle shaft - I'll pull the carb and see how much clearance there is around the shaft. Might be my prob - it has been pretty humid this summer. I put a carb kit in a coupla years ago, but prob won't hurt to take it apart and clean it up again anyway.

No antifreeze in the oil or cylinder - plugs look good and the oil is nice and clear.

Thanks guys I appreciate it, came in last nite from working on the old girl and told the wife it might be time to look for an apartment in town.....

cheers,

Creek